Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

got my exhaust system on yesterday.....3" turbo back....hi flow cat...etc....anyway....

there seems to be no difference in power....and i still cant get it over 5psi from giving it a boot....

also, i believe that the company i bought the hi flo cat from sent me a s13 cat instead of and r33 cat...would this make any difference to it? like would it be more restrictive?

(the s13 cat has been fitted on my r33.......as i had no other options but to fit it until i can get the company to sort it out....)

so yeah, just wondering why it still hasnt made a difference?

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/210334-exhaust-system-on-but-no-change/
Share on other sites

Get it inspected. Just a cat-back gave me very noticable gains, and it also allows more boost to be made.

Your exhaust can't be the problem, it's just a long pipe, it must be something else. Only thing i can imagine is the cat isn't new and it's blocking exhaust flow.

Otherwise something else is farked.

It won't be your exhaust causing you to get low psi... as stated before most likely a vac leak or actuatur fault.... exhaust system won't affect your max boost mine would hit 7psi when completely stock... i'd say you have a problem elsewhere

got my exhaust system on yesterday.....3" turbo back....hi flow cat...etc....anyway....

there seems to be no difference in power....and i still cant get it over 5psi from giving it a boot....

also, i believe that the company i bought the hi flo cat from sent me a s13 cat instead of and r33 cat...would this make any difference to it? like would it be more restrictive?

(the s13 cat has been fitted on my r33.......as i had no other options but to fit it until i can get the company to sort it out....)

so yeah, just wondering why it still hasnt made a difference?

What size is your turbo and what type of wastegate (internal or external) and at what rpm does it acheive 5psi??

and i still cant get it over 5psi from giving it a boot....

looks like you had a problem even before you installed the cat + exhaust system. stockers should be runing 7psi and with full exausht sys it should be 9-10psi

model specific generally means cat length and bolt up patterns. its usually a universal hi flow cat with custom flanges welded to fit the model

the car is all stock.......except now for the exhaust.....

so, i should take it to a mechanic to see if there is a fault in vac pressure or something? or what should i do?

If your WG spring is broken (inside actuator) that could be it...I can't remember since stock setup is a long time ago for me, but if you can access the rod coming out of the actuator make sure that you can't easily move it in and out of the actuator. If you can then the spring is broken...I don't think this a common failure though but worth checking if you can...5psi sounds like what you what get if the WG is opening too much due to a broken or very weak spring...

interesting that one....but as mentioned above i dont think your exhaust would be causing that problem....to me it sounds like a vac leak or could be worse a manifold gasket leak.....but yes you should be hitting 7psi even if its bone stock.....but also remember that having an exhaust doesnt give you massive amounts of power....and dont expect to have your boost to hit 9-10 psi without winding it up...another word of advice is to check if your stock boost controller is plugged in the right way....a mate of mine had that problem and was only hitting 5psi when he set the boost level for 9psi...

chuck it on the dyno a lot of problems can be found that way

Edited by Krishy
Just thought you could also disconnect your wastegate and see what difference this makes...BUT DO NOT DRIVE IT HARD!!! Take it very easy and just lightly pedal it to see if it exceeds 5psi...

dont do this... ^^^

if you're not confident mechanically, take it to someone who knows what they're doing.

Yeah ok if you have absolutely no idea what you are doing don't do it...If you decide to, I can't stress enough dont drive it hard!! What should happen if the WG is ok is that you will get a boost spike if too much pedal...That is why I said pedal the car very lightly..This means very light throttle...If the WG spring is weak or broken, the exhaust pressure itself will force WG open and you get only a small rise in boost...

You will hit air flow cut (aka boost cut) before anything significant happens if every thing else is stock...

so what should i be looking for and where abouts will i find it.....i think i need to do some DIY tomorrow......so let me know....

Do you know where the boost control solenoid is?? It is mounted near the power steering fluid reservior on the LHS of the engine bay...There should be 2 small hoses going to the solenoid. I think one goes from the solenoid to the intake pipework near the airflow meter. The other goes to a T piece that is connected to the intake pipe that runs toward the throttle body and the other side of the T goes to the WG actuator..If you disconnect the T peice line at the solenoid you have effectively put a big bleed valve in and the boost should increase.

Drive the car very lightly off boost and find a section of road that you can cruise at about 100...in 4th gear gradually open the throttle to see what your boost does...Do it gradually because if you dont and it is the WG actuator that is buggered you will find 15psi or more very quickly and the car will boost cut...

Now if after doing this the boost doesn't change it is not the actuator. If it does change it must be the actuator...Re connect the line to the solenoid and check the actuator...make sure you reconnect all vacuum lines even if the boos increases and the car has more power. It is risky to leave lines disconnected...

Also one of the first things i should have asked is how are you ready boost...from the factory gauge??If so check the gauge is reading accurately...Normally they dont after a while...

well i kinda know what ur tlaking about.....

i had a look today and there is a black plug with a black wire and a awhite wire comin out of it over near the AFM on the RHS and there is another....exactly the same plug and wire setup on the LHS near the fuse box.....

the solenoid ur talkin about....its got two pipes...bout 2/3" wide...they are kinda mounted on top of each other.....

eg....

I I

====I I

====I I

I I

====I I

====I I

I I

i might take it to my mechanic friend to see what he can do bout it....i dont have a decent mechanical understanding (as u can see)....so i dont wanna chance anything.....

Umm fuse box is on the RHS....on mine anyway...RHS looking from back of car towards front...

Yeah if you are not sure get someone else to look at it..But alway ask them to explain to you what they did/do... I am always one for learning....I am in NSW so I can't recommend anyone for you to go to but I am sure someone can that is more local to you..Good luck...

Did the R33 GTS-T's come with a boost restrictor that you can remove to gain a SAFE Factory boost increase like the GTR R32's? The Brass Boost restrictor I think its called..?

If so, remove it and you sould get up to 7 psi...

Umm fuse box is on the RHS....on mine anyway...RHS looking from back of car towards front...

Yeah if you are not sure get someone else to look at it..But alway ask them to explain to you what they did/do... I am always one for learning....I am in NSW so I can't recommend anyone for you to go to but I am sure someone can that is more local to you..Good luck...

ahh k....i was like RHS...hmm....i was referrin to it as looking at it from the front of the engine bay....

i think i know the wires/plug ur talking about.....its jus enxt to the fuse box......

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Yea - I mean I've seen my fuel pump which is decades old and uh, while I'm not saying this with real knowledge... but I sure get the ick at using anything in the fuel system that produced the state of that pump. Many years ago I went through multiple pumps (and strainers) before I dropped the tank to clean it out with extreme violence. I'm talking the car would do maybe 50km before coming to a halt, which resulted in me cleaning out the filter with some brake cleaner and going on my way. None of my stuff ever looked like what came out of your fuel tank. I don't think I'd be happy with it unless every single component was replaced (or at least checked/cleaned/confirmed to be clean here).
    • I'm not going to recommend an EBC pad. I don't like them. Just about anything else would suit me better. I've been using Intima pads for a while now.
    • Agreed, and in particular the earth strap that should go from the subframe to the chassis but it often broken or left off. There is a section in the R32 workshop manual you can follow for troubleshooting if you don't see anything suspicious, and depending where you are (there is no location on your user profile) you should be able to get your hands on a second hand replacement unit still if needed
    • Yeah they mention as a R34 for 2.5 Turbo...but then again thos "small" were also for R34 by that different site. But i look into it and that 310mm EBC is for R34 GTT. And by those you linked the specs are the same 🙂    EDIT: I found these on one site here: DBA 4000 series T3 DBA42304S They are 310mm...and it says are for R34GTT...are there good? EDIT2: ok they have pads too.  What "color" should i get for street use? I dont want/need some noisy ones...(and if they are not that dusty that is good too)
    • Yeah, shame. Maybe  driver's carpet is available 🙏. I am waiting for both amayama and nangun to confirm.
×
×
  • Create New...