Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

I've got an auto R33 gtst-series 1 that I got recently, and my fuel consumption is about 280-300 kms per full tank.

So from what I've read so far, changing the O2 sensor, plugs, might help. Also I didnt get what the ecu + remap + piggy back does and would it cost too much?

thanks

  • Replies 74
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Top Posters In This Topic

Posted Images

off the bat, just replace the O2 sensor (they're liek $80.00 new delivered from KUDOS), and give the AFM a clean with carby cleaner.. stock air box helps as well, and check for leaks.

nothing wrong with stock ecu if you don't plan to run many mods

If you have a PFC make sure the O2 sensor is turned on.

my tuner left mine off and was wondering why i would get 17-18L per 100km just cruising around.

It dropped down to 13L per 100 once on. hopefully get it a little lower once my tune is touched up today by a different tuner :cool:

Also I didnt get what the ecu + remap + piggy back does and would it cost too much?

If you have a number of mods it can cause the stock ecu to not be ideal for the modified setup. One thing is the ecu can go into rich and retard mode which means it adds extra fuel and takes out timing. This is more under power though but as you can see will worsen your fuel economy.

Custom tuning can also further optimise your afrs for better fuel consumption.

If you have a PFC make sure the O2 sensor is turned on.

my tuner left mine off and was wondering why i would get 17-18L per 100km just cruising around.

It dropped down to 13L per 100 once on. hopefully get it a little lower once my tune is touched up today by a different tuner :cool:

provided it works!

mines permantly disabled and I cruise at 14.7 a/f usually get up to 400km city per tank of enthusiastic driving at 1.3bar

but saying that, he runs a stock ECU

  • 2 months later...
  • 1 year later...

ah you want to know the secret to getting more Ks from a tank eh?.... I dunno guys should we tell him...

I know it an old thead but I have the secret

How do you all drive your car? It must be Full no, off, Full on, off

LOL funny

I must have the secret, here it is

Buy a hr31 two 2 door skyline. Put in it a RB25det neo in it then a rb26 gearbox and a chrome-moly flywheel, brass button clutch, bosch 040 fuel pump , adjustable fuel regulator , Apex bov, Turbosmart boost controller, Big front mount intercooler, plenum and 68mm XF body, hks cams,Oil cooler and oil filter relocation, micro tech LT-12, TO4 Turbo 69hks inlet wheel and 0.7 housing exhaust , Tial wast gate, 10l sump (for Oil), head std kit (ARP), mean std kit(ARP), commadik head gasket, gates timing balt, N1 oil pump.

and made 350rhp ish on 12psi on pits dyno and If you drive it like a normal person and you get 550ish + out of a tank. Drive like a wanker and you get about 300ish.

WIN WIN WIN ON FUEL

post-64661-0-56502200-1309183769_thumb.jpg

Just switched back to 98 after 18 months or so on E85. (Around 240rwkw)

So far on the first tank i'm up to 320km and about 1/8 of a tank left. There has been very little cruise going on. I would say 80% of the driving has been foot to the floor (very little O2 use).

Very surprised at the economy. I would love to take it for a long country drive to see what is possible but it's too much fun on boost :)

Jimmy

Hey, that's funny. I was just about to head out and buy hr31 two 2 door skyline. Put in it a RB25det neo in it then a rb26 gearbox and a chrome-moly flywheel, brass button clutch, bosch 040 fuel pump , adjustable fuel regulator , Apex bov, Turbosmart boost controller, Big front mount intercooler, plenum and 68mm XF body, hks cams,Oil cooler and oil filter relocation, micro tech LT-12, TO4 Turbo 69hks inlet wheel and 0.7 housing exhaust , Tial wast gate, 10l sump (for Oil), head std kit (ARP), mean std kit(ARP), commadik head gasket, gates timing balt, N1 oil pump.

Hoping to make 350rhp ish on 12psi on pits dyno and If you drive it like a normal person and you get 550ish + out of a tank. Drive like a wanker and you get about 300ish.

i'm a bit out of my legue here but i own a 98 nissan s2 stagea rs4

many problems with fuel economy

albeit many people here have big problems with their setups but i found the best fuel saving device was a boost guage

under vaccume the map uses the o2 sensor and leans out the engine, boost means the ecu runs a default map which is typically rich

in summary when you hear that boost whistle it sounds like this $$$$HHH

keep of boost and you are saving a bundle

Lowest i've seen out of the DE+T is 9.1L/100km. Easy highway driving, with the occasional WOT 3rd/4rd/5th coming into a 100 zone. Fresh plugs, coils, fuel filter, pump, 02 sensor, clean AFM, good oil and good maintenance helps the figure.

State of tune helps also. Plugs, coils, ECU and it's relevant sensors (o2, MAF), low fuel pressure, big tyres, poor alignment, carrying excess weight etc. etc. will all affect economy. Driving style will be a MAJOR factor over all others though...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Yeah, it's getting like that, my daughter is coming over on Thursday to help me remove the bonnet so I can install the Carbuilders underbonnet stuff,  I might get her to give me a hand and remove the hardtop, maybe, because on really hot days the detachable hardtop helps the aircon keep the interior cool, the heat just punches straight through to rag top I also don't have enough hair for the "wind in the hair" experience, so there is that....LOL
    • Could be falling edge/rising edge is set wrong. Are you getting sync errors?
    • On BMWs what I do because I'm more confident that I can't instantly crush the pinch welds and do thousands of USD in chassis damage is use a set of rubber jacking pads designed to protect the chassis/plastic adapter and raise a corner of the car, place the aforementioned 2x12 inch wooden planks under a tire, drop the car, then this normally gives me enough clearance to get to the front central jack point. If you don't need it to be a ramp it only needs to be 1-1.5 feet long. On my R33 I do not trust the pinch welds to tolerate any of this so I drive up on the ramps. Before then when I had to get a new floor jack that no longer cleared the front lip I removed it to get enough clearance to put the jack under it. Once you're on the ramps once you simply never let the car down to the ground. It lives on the ramps or on jack stands.
    • Nah. You need 2x taps for anything that you cannot pass the tap all the way through. And even then, there's a point in response to the above which I will come back to. The 2x taps are 1x tapered for starting, and 1x plug tap for working to the bottom of blind holes. That block's port is effectively a blind hole from the perspective of the tap. The tapered tap/tapered thread response. You don't ever leave a female hole tapered. They are supposed to be parallel, hence the wide section of a tapered tap being parallel, the existince of plug taps, etc. The male is tapered so that it will eventually get too fat for the female thread, and yes, there is some risk if the tapped length of the female hole doesn't offer enough threads, that it will not lock up very nicely. But you can always buzz off the extra length on the male thread, and the tape is very good at adding bulk to the joint.
    • Nice....looking forward to that update
×
×
  • Create New...