Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Was on the xr6T forum today. They were comparing the new F6 with the w427. There speculating the F6 will have around 600nm of torque and about 320-330kw, compared to the w427 with 370kw and 650nm? torque. the F6 will probably cost 1/2 the price and may actually keep up with the w427.

Now I think the R35 doesnt weigh all that much less than the F6 and w427. It has less torque than both and its power figure sits in the middle of both.

Would it be reasonable to say that the F6 or the w427 could out accelerate the R35 if they were rolling and did not loose traction?

Im not too keen on anything with 7L but the F6 with launch control could be a ball tearer.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/210659-straight-line-performance/
Share on other sites

Was on the xr6T forum today. They were comparing the new F6 with the w427. There speculating the F6 will have around 600nm of torque and about 320-330kw, compared to the w427 with 370kw and 650nm? torque. the F6 will probably cost 1/2 the price and may actually keep up with the w427.

Now I think the R35 doesnt weigh all that much less than the F6 and w427. It has less torque than both and its power figure sits in the middle of both.

Would it be reasonable to say that the F6 or the w427 could out accelerate the R35 if they were rolling and did not loose traction?

Im not too keen on anything with 7L but the F6 with launch control could be a ball tearer.

There was a comparison on the LS1 forums and the outcome of that discussion was that the R35 is quicker to 100 and down the quarter than it by a fair whack. So in short, in a straight line at least, no those cars couldn't keep up.

Well hard to say, I dont really know what both of the local offerings will hit the scales at. I know the GTR is heavy but it does make as much as the 427...I would still tip the Skyline to be a bit quicker.I believe one of the latest motor magazines compares some 427 holden against BMW and Merc.This car was tested making 400 kw ( according to the magazine )..it was quicker than both, but it only ran a 12.8 according to their tests..I am not sure this is the same car as HSV is building ( Maybe an aftermarket job ) but a 12.8 ..? I was expecting a low 12 or high 11 ...Dont really know much about what Ford is building. Potential is there to be fast..who knows

There's probably enough literature and automotive tests on w427 and the R35 (japanese version) to make a punt on who'd come out quicker. But then again, it's not really a fair comparison as the R35 has two less doors and is built ground up as a competitor to the Porsche 911.

There was a comparison on the LS1 forums and the outcome of that discussion was that the R35 is quicker to 100 and down the quarter than it by a fair whack. So in short, in a straight line at least, no those cars couldn't keep up.

i would have thought this would be due to traction. i have a feeling if they were rolling and had no traction loss these cars would keep up.

Was on the xr6T forum today. They were comparing the new F6 with the w427. There speculating the F6 will have around 600nm of torque and about 320-330kw, compared to the w427 with 370kw and 650nm? torque. the F6 will probably cost 1/2 the price and may actually keep up with the w427.

Now I think the R35 doesnt weigh all that much less than the F6 and w427. It has less torque than both and its power figure sits in the middle of both.

Would it be reasonable to say that the F6 or the w427 could out accelerate the R35 if they were rolling and did not loose traction?

Im not too keen on anything with 7L but the F6 with launch control could be a ball tearer.

No way will the F6 come out with 320+kw, try 300...and no they won't compete with the GT-R.

i would have thought this would be due to traction. i have a feeling if they were rolling and had no traction loss these cars would keep up.

The W427 and Typhoon will both be using either manuals or torque converting autos. Even if all else was equal, they wouldn't keep up on that alone.

The 997 Turbo has the same power and less weight than the GT-R (and both are AWD with fat, soft, rubber), but as it doesn't have the instantaneous gearchanges the cars are line ball in a straight line. The two cars' manuals are nowhere near as smooth and easy to use as the Porsche's, so they'll be slower. If you got the autos, they're only marginally quicker than the manual cars.

Unfortunately, not all else is equal. The GT-R's aerodynamics are far better than the two sedans', so once you get up to speed the GT-R will still dominate.

Only if you're talking about an high-gear roll start at low speeds and the R35 is off-boost will the 7.0L Holden have a chance of winning.

I would have to say the GTR, namely

horsepower / weight similar?

traction superior

gearbox changes faster

launch control

For the Ford to be quicker,

- it needs to match the traction (i.e. not one of those dodgy systems where the car puts on the brakes to stop wheel spin in acceleration. So without AWD, and assuming a good TCS then it would need the right tyres to make up for this

- gearbox either needs as quick a gearchange or no change at all i.e. 1st gear all the way to 100km/hr

launch control or an ace driver to make up for the balance of revs/wheelspin without smokin' it or bogging down

So it might be possible with equivalent power/weight and an 'ace' driver to keep up / maybe win but then the GTR will have repeatable performance.

A guy I worked with modded his XR6T so it had 355hp at the rears and it used to freak him out, the traction control would cut in and slow the car down enough to make him think he was going to get t-boned! it shows that a RWD TCS is not really a match for an AWD

Also if you haven't seen this article from Edmunds, then it is not too bad a read - especially for Nissan fans

http://www.edmunds.com/apps/vdpcontainers/...rticleId=124017

A rolling start certainly doesnt take traction out of the equation

Lets think about that, based on my post that we're responding directly to Amir's question in the first post of this thread?

Would it be reasonable to say that the F6 or the w427 could out accelerate the R35 if they were rolling and did not loose traction?

(Emphasis added by me, spelling mistake is by him)

Would you care to revise your statement, given the context of his question?

Edited by scathing

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I did end up getting it sorted, as GTSBoy said, there was a corroded connection and wire that needed to be replaced. I ended up taking out the light assembly, giving everything a good clean and re-soldered the old joints, and it came out good.
    • Wow, thanks for your help guys 🙏. I really appreciate it. Thanks @Rezz, if i fail finding any new or used, full or partial set of original Stage carpets i will come back to you for sure 😉 Explenation is right there, i just missed it 🤦‍♂️. Thanks for pointing out. @soviet_merlin in the meantime, I received a reply from nengun, and i quote: "Thanks for your message and interest in Nengun. KG4900 is for the full set of floor mats, while KG4911 is only the Driver's Floor Mat. FR, RH means Front Right Hand Side. All the Full Set options are now discontinued. However, the Driver's Floor Mat options are still available according to the latest information available to us. We do not know what the differences would be, but if you only want the one mat, we can certainly see what we can find out for you". Interesting. It seems they still have some "new old stock" that Duncan mentioned 🤔. I wonder if they can provide any photos......And i also just realized that amayama have G4900 sets. I'm tempted too. 
    • Any update on this one? did you manage to get it fixed?    i'm having the same issue with my r34 and i believe its to do with the smart entry (keyless) control module but cant be sure without forking out to get a replacement  
    • So this being my first contribution to the SAU forums, I'd like to present and show how I had to solve probably one of the most annoying fixes on any car I've owned: replacing a speedometer (or "speedo") sensor on my newly acquired Series 1 Stagea 260RS Autech Version. I'm simply documenting how I went about to fix this issue, and as I understand it is relatively rare to happen to this generation of cars, it is a gigantic PITA so I hope this helps serve as reference to anyone else who may encounter this issue. NOTE: Although I say this is meant for the 260RS, because the gearbox/drivetrain is shared with the R33 GTR with the 5-speed manual, the application should be exactly the same. Background So after driving my new-to-me Stagea for about 1500km, one night while driving home the speedometer and odometer suddenly stopped working. No clunking noise, no indication something was broken, the speedometer would just stop reading anything and the odometer stopped going up. This is a huge worry for me, because my car is relatively low mileage (only 45k km when purchased) so although I plan to own the car for a long time, a mismatched odometer reading would be hugely detrimental to resale should the day come to sell the car. Thankfully this only occurred a mile or two from home so it wasn't extremely significant. Also, the OCD part of me would be extremely irked if the numbers that showed on my dash doesn't match the actual ageing of the car. Diagnosing I had been in communication with the well renown GTR shop in the USA, U.P.garage up near University Point in Washington state. After some back and forth they said it could be one of two things: 1) The speedometer sensor that goes into the transfer case is broken 2) The actual cluster has a component that went kaput. They said this is common in older Nissan gauge clusters and that would indicate a rebuild is necessary. As I tried to figure out if it was problem #1, I resolved problem #2 by sending my cluster over to Relentless Motorsports in Dallas, TX, whom is local to me and does cluster and ECU rebuilds. He is a one man operation who meticulously replaces every chip, resistor, capacitor, and electronic component on the PCB's on a wide variety of classic and modern cars. His specialty is Lexus and Toyota, but he came highly recommended by Erik of U.P.garage since he does the rebuilds for them on GTR clusters.  For those that don't know, on R32 and R33 GTR gearboxes, the speedometer sensor is mounted in the transfer case and is purely an analog mini "generator" (opposite of an alternator essentially). Based on the speed the sensor spins it generates an AC sine wave voltage up to 5V, and sends that via two wires up to the cluster which then interprets it via the speedometer dial. The signal does NOT go to the ECU first, the wiring goes to the cluster first then the ECU after (or so I'm told).  Problems/Roadblocks I first removed the part from the car on the underside of the transfer case (drain your transfer case fluid/ATF first, guess who found out that the hard way?), and noted the transfer case fluid was EXTREMELY black, most likely never changed on my car. When attempting to turn the gears it felt extremely gritty, as if something was binding the shaft from rotating properly. I got absolutely no voltage reading out of the sensor no matter how fast I turned the shaft. After having to reflow the solder on my AFM sensors based on another SAU guide here, I attempted to disassemble the silicone seal on the back of the sensor to see what happened inside the sensor; turns out, it basically disintegrated itself. Wonderful. Not only had the electrical components destroyed themselves, the magnetic portion on what I thought was on the shaft also chipped and was broken. Solution So solution: find a spare part right? Wrong. Nissan has long discontinued the proper sensor part number 32702-21U19, and it is no longer obtainable either through Nissan NSA or Nissan Japan. I was SOL without proper speed or mileage readings unless I figured out a way to replace this sensor. After tons of Googling and searching on SAU, I found that there IS however a sensor that looks almost exactly like the R33/260RS one: a sensor meant for the R33/R34 GTT and GTS-T with the 5 speed manual. The part number was 25010-21U00, and the body, plug, and shaft all looked exactly the same. The gear was different at the end, but knowing the sensor's gear is held on with a circlip, I figured I could just order the part and swap the gears. Cue me ordering a new part from JustJap down in Kirrawee, NSW, then waiting almost 3 weeks for shipping and customs clearing. The part finally arrives and what did I find? The freaking shaft lengths don't match. $&%* I discussed with Erik how to proceed, and figuring that I basically destroyed the sensor trying to get the shaft out of the damaged sensor from my car. we deemed it too dangerous to try and attempt to swap shafts to the correct length. I had to find a local CNC machinist to help me cut and notch down the shaft. After tons of frantic calling on a Friday afternoon, I managed to get hold of someone and he said he'd be able to do it over half a week. I sent him photos and had him take measurements to match not only the correct length and notch fitment, but also a groove to machine out to hold the retentive circlip. And the end result? *chef's kiss* Perfect. Since I didn't have pliers with me when I picked up the items, I tested the old gear and circlip on. Perfect fit. After that it was simply swapping out the plug bracket to the new sensor, mount it on the transfer case, refill with ATF/Nissan Matic Fluid D, then test out function. Thankfully with the rebuilt cluster and the new sensor, both the speedometer and odometer and now working properly!   And there you have it. About 5-6 weeks of headaches wrapped up in a 15 minute photo essay. As I was told it is rare for sensors of this generation to die so dramatically, but you never know what could go wrong with a 25+ year old car. I HOPE that no one else has to go through this problem like I did, so with my take on a solution I hope it helps others who may encounter this issue in the future. For the TL;DR: 1) Sensor breaks. 2) Find a replacement GTT/GTS-T sensor. 3) Find a CNC machinist to have you cut it down to proper specs. 4) Reinstall then pray to the JDM gods.   Hope this guide/story helps anyone else encountering this problem!
    • So this being my first contribution to the SAU forums, I'd like to present and show how I had to solve probably one of the most annoying fixes on any car I've owned: replacing a speedometer (or "speedo") sensor on my newly acquired Series 1 Stagea 260RS Autech Version. I'm simply documenting how I went about to fix this issue, and as I understand it is relatively rare to happen to this generation of cars, it is a gigantic PITA so I hope this helps serve as reference to anyone else who may encounter this issue. NOTE: Although I say this is meant for the 260RS, because the gearbox/drivetrain is shared with the R33 GTR with the 5-speed manual, the application should be exactly the same. Background So after driving my new-to-me Stagea for about 1500km, one night while driving home the speedometer and odometer suddenly stopped working. No clunking noise, no indication something was broken, the speedometer would just stop reading anything and the odometer stopped going up. This is a huge worry for me, because my car is relatively low mileage (only 45k km when purchased) so although I plan to own the car for a long time, a mismatched odometer reading would be hugely detrimental to resale should the day come to sell the car. Thankfully this only occurred a mile or two from home so it wasn't extremely significant. Also, the OCD part of me would be extremely irked if the numbers that showed on my dash doesn't match the actual ageing of the car. Diagnosing I had been in communication with the well renown GTR shop in the USA, U.P.garage up near University Point in Washington state. After some back and forth they said it could be one of two things: 1) The speedometer sensor that goes into the transfer case is broken 2) The actual cluster has a component that went kaput. They said this is common in older Nissan gauge clusters and that would indicate a rebuild is necessary. As I tried to figure out if it was problem #1, I resolved problem #2 by sending my cluster over to Relentless Motorsports in Dallas, TX, whom is local to me and does cluster and ECU rebuilds. He is a one man operation who meticulously replaces every chip, resistor, capacitor, and electronic component on the PCB's on a wide variety of classic and modern cars. His specialty is Lexus and Toyota, but he came highly recommended by Erik of U.P.garage since he does the rebuilds for them on GTR clusters.  For those that don't know, on R32 and R33 GTR gearboxes, the speedometer sensor is mounted in the transfer case and is purely an analog mini "generator" (opposite of an alternator essentially). Based on the speed the sensor spins it generates an AC sine wave voltage up to 5V, and sends that via two wires up to the cluster which then interprets it via the speedometer dial. The signal does NOT go to the ECU first, the wiring goes to the cluster first then the ECU after (or so I'm told).  Problems/Roadblocks I first removed the part from the car on the underside of the transfer case (drain your transfer case fluid/ATF first, guess who found out that the hard way?), and noted the transfer case fluid was EXTREMELY black, most likely never changed on my car. When attempting to turn the gears it felt extremely gritty, as if shttps://imgur.com/6TQCG3xomething was binding the shaft from rotating properly. After having to reflow the solder on my AFM sensors based on another SAU guide here, I attempted to disassemble the silicone seal on the back of the sensor to see what happened inside the sensor; turns out, it basically disintegrated itself. Wonderful. Not only had the electrical components destroyed themselves, the magnetic portion on what I thought was on the shaft also chipped and was broken. Solution So solution: find a spare part right? Wrong. Nissan has long discontinued the proper sensor part number 32702-21U19, and it is no longer obtainable either through Nissan NSA or Nissan Japan. I was SOL without proper speed or mileage readings unless I figured out a way to replace this sensor. After tons of Googling and searching on SAU, I found that there IS however a sensor that looks almost exactly like the R33/260RS one: a sensor meant for the R33/R34 GTT and GTS-T with the 5 speed manual. The part number was 25010-21U00, and the body, plug, and shaft all looked exactly the same. The gear was different at the end, but knowing the sensor's gear is held on with a circlip, I figured I could just order the part and swap the gears. Cue me ordering a new part from JustJap down in Kirrawee, NSW, then waiting almost 3 weeks for shipping and customs clearing. The part finally arrives and what did I find? The freaking shaft lengths don't match. $&%* I discussed with Erik how to proceed, and figuring that I basically destroyed the sensor trying to get the shaft out of the damaged sensor from my car. we deemed it too dangerous to try and attempt to swap shafts to the correct length. I had to find a local CNC machinist to help me cut and notch down the shaft. After tons of frantic calling on a Friday afternoon, I managed to get hold of someone and he said he'd be able to do it over half a week. I sent him photos and had him take measurements to match not only the correct length and notch fitment, but also a groove to machine out to hold the retentive circlip. And the end result? *chef's kiss* Perfect. Since I didn't have pliers with me when I picked up the items, I tested the old gear and circlip on. Perfect fit. After that it was simply swapping out the plug bracket to the new sensor, mount it on the transfer case, refill with ATF/Nissan Matic Fluid D, then test out function. Thankfully with the rebuilt cluster and the new sensor, both the speedometer and odometer and now working properly!   And there you have it. About 5-6 weeks of headaches wrapped up in a 15 minute photo essay. As I was told it is rare for sensors of this generation to die so dramatically, but you never know what could go wrong with a 25+ year old car. I HOPE that no one else has to go through this problem like I did, so with my take on a solution I hope it helps others who may encounter this issue in the future. For the TL;DR: 1) Sensor breaks. 2) Find a replacement GTT/GTS-T sensor. 3) Find a CNC machinist to have you cut it down to proper specs. 4) Reinstall then pray to the JDM gods.   Hope this guide/story helps anyone else encountering this problem!
×
×
  • Create New...