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Anybody have any idea what the differences are between rb26 blocks.

Ok we know r34 is better made, but not all that much in it between them.

eg could one take an r32 block, use an r33 crank, and r34 head, etc and make it all work or are there actual differences ?

Just thinking i think the oil pump chanels are different ?

E

same blocks,

r33 and r34 run different nose on the crank from r32 and different oil pump,other than that there the same.

u can interchange all components,provided u use the right oil pump to match the crank or u can run an adapter on r32 crank to use later pump.

I have heard that the N1 block is different and supposed to be somehow "better", but as far as I know all the other RB26 blocks are the same.

I believe the same block casting is also used in the RB25 AWD engines used in the R33 GTS-4, and the R34 RB25DET neo used in the Stagea.

All these engines use the alloy 4WD sump, and have the special pan rails.

  • 9 years later...

bump. 10 years later.

I have a couple of questions and I don't want to start a new thread:

1) Can a r32 N1 block fit into a 34-R?

2) Does the 34-R RB26 have stronger internals, CAMs, or other machine components than a 32-R engine? I'm not talking about differences in sensors or other electronics as I'm aware about the coils, CAS, etc.

3) Do 32-R N1 engines have better/same turbo chargers as a 34-R block?

1. Yes. Identical

2. Not really. Just the better drive for the oil pump, about it.

3. No. They have shitty lag fest turbos. 34N1 are basically the same as Garrett -7s, best for response and around 300-320rwkw

End of the day N1 factory blocks have not proven to be stronger than a normal 26 block. N1s just cost more yet still retaining the oiling issues with poor returns and no restrictors in the blocks. So in summary, they are a waste of money - better of rebuilding in todays day and age

Thanks again, mate. :-)

So with question1, there's no issues with a 32-R N1 block fitting into the R34 ATESSA, tranny, etc?

2. Whats the difference between a 32-R N1 and 34-R Nur (N1 engine from what I read)?

The N1 RB26DETT's were all the same but,

The R33 N1 RB26's turbos and engine were slightly revised.

The R34 N1 RB26 was further revised with the Camshaft Timing altered for more torque.

R34 GTR N1 Turbos are Ball Bearing hence allowing the shaft to spin faster = More responsive.

R33 N1 turbo's IIRC were still larger than R34 N1s as they make more power but are noticeably less responsive

Thanks again, mate. :-)

So with question1, there's no issues with a 32-R N1 block fitting into the R34 ATESSA, tranny, etc?

2. Whats the difference between a 32-R N1 and 34-R Nur (N1 engine from what I read)?

1. As i said, it's identical. This means no problems.

2. Again as i said crank snount for the oil drive, turbos and honestly - fk all else. N1/NUR motors still have the inherent flaws that any decent rebuild should well and truly fix.

R33 N1 turbo's IIRC were still larger than R34 N1s as they make more power but are noticeably less responsive

They are very similar but if larger, they are not by much.

R33 N1 Turbine Wheel = 41.7mm - 53.0mm

R34 N1 Turbine Wheel = 42.4mm - 53.8mm

R33 N1 Turbine Trim = CD79

R34 N1 Turbine Trim = 62T

Edited my post anyway :)

Also I believe the N1 Block is reinforced.

Yeah exhaust wheel isn't the only factor - comp wheel also

Ye N1 block has extra ribbing - but people have split them @ the same levels as normal ones. So it's not really a set in stone "advantage" even @ 400rwkw.

Yeah exhaust wheel isn't the only factor - comp wheel also

Yeah for sure, I should have listed that too:

R33 N1 Compressor Wheel = 44.5mm - 60.1mm

R34 N1 Compressor Wheel = 44.5mm - 60.0mm

Ye N1 block has extra ribbing - but people have split them @ the same levels as normal ones. So it's not really a set in stone "advantage" even @ 400rwkw.

I am sure for a street application, it's fine.

Might have to go for a Nismo RRR Black (GT500) :D

  • 5 years later...

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