Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

I'm upgrading my Gtt brakes soon for motorsport use and from what I've heard and read and heard I might be better of buying after market calipers (to use with 324 diameter calipers) rather than buying r33 or r34 GTR Brembos .Are Brembos overated ? Any thoughts on which way to go. obviously you only get what you pay for but I'm just talking pure performance of different brands of calipers that can be bought at reaonable prices.

Edited by PJF

For the money the Brembos are a tad overated. But it takes a bit more money for something like CSC/B-Spec to get much of an improvement.

What mods do you have, What tyres are you running, What wheel diameter are you running? You will be pleasantly surprised what some good fluid and something like Endless CCX pads will do to your brakign system. Throw some braided lines in there to get a good baseline and i would be surprised if you dont have enough brakes.

What sort of motorsport do you have in mind...what tracks?

I wouldn't bother swapping calipers.

get your lines swapped for braided, get some good pads and run a decent brake fluid like motul rbf600 or the equivalent high temp penrite. Then run it until your rotors need changing and replace them with a quality 2 piece unit (i'd suggest project mu HCR pro based on my limited experience) or alternatively, if you feel the brakes still aren't up to scratch at that stage,then get the bigger rotors and new calipers

damn, beat me to it roy!

Edited by BHDave
For the money the Brembos are a tad overated. But it takes a bit more money for something like CSC/B-Spec to get much of an improvement.

What mods do you have, What tyres are you running, What wheel diameter are you running? You will be pleasantly surprised what some good fluid and something like Endless CCX pads will do to your brakign system. Throw some braided lines in there to get a good baseline and i would be surprised if you dont have enough brakes.

What sort of motorsport do you have in mind...what tracks?

Semi slicks, standard diam. wheels. Will be running in targa tassie 2009 hence the need for good braking system

i ran the g4 brakes at targa last year, they are 8 spot over 330mm calipers and fit well under 17" wheels. if you are running 18" you have more options but 17 is limited to about 330mm discs for most wheel designs.

i ran the g4 brakes at targa last year, they are 8 spot over 330mm calipers and fit well under 17" wheels. if you are running 18" you have more options but 17 is limited to about 330mm discs for most wheel designs.

Thanks for your reply Could you PM me if you have any extra info on the G4's. I to am running in Targa again next year. Any info would be appreciated .

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Which solenoid? Why was it changed? Again, why was this done? ...well, these wear..but ultimately, why was it changed? Did you reset the idle voltage level after fitment? I'm just a tad confused ~ the flash code doesn't allude to these items being faulty, so in my mind the only reason to change these things, would be some drive-ability issue....and if that's the case, what was the problem? Those questions aside, check if the dropping resistor is OK ...should be 11~14 ohms (TCU doesn't throw a flash code for this) ~ also, these TCU designs have full time power (to keep fault code RAM alive), and I think that'll throw a logic code (as opposed to the 10 hardware codes), if that power is missing (or the ram has gone bad in the TCU, which you can check..but that's another story here perhaps).
    • Question for people who "know stuff" I am looking at doing the new intake like the one in the picture (the pictured is designed for the OEM TB and intake plenum), this design has the filter behind the front bar, but, the filter sits where the OEM duct heads into the front bar, and the standard aperture when the OEM ducting is removed allows the filter to pulled back out of the front bar into the engine bay for servicing, a simple blanking plate is used to seal the aperture behind the filter This will require a 45° silicone hose from the TB, like the alloy pipe that is currently there, to another 45° silicone hose to get a straight run to the aperture in the front bar Question: how will it effect the tune if I move the MAF about 100-150mm forward, the red is around where my MAF is currently, and the green would be where it would end up Like this This is the hole the filter goes through  Ends up like this LOL..Cheers    
    • Despite the level up question, actually I do know what that is....it is a pressure sender wire.  So check out around the oil filter for an oil pressure sender, or maybe fuel pressure near the filter or on the engine. Possibly but less likely coolant pressure sensor because they tend to be combined temp/pressure senders if you have one. Could also be brake pressure (in a brake line somewhere pre ABS) but maybe I'm the only one that has that on a skyline.
    • Pull codes via the self-diagnosis procedure. As far as I can tell this is just a sign of transmission issues but not a code unto itself.
    • Hi All, putting the engine back together and everything is perfect except have this plug left over.. any ideas what it is for and where it goes? Is on cold side under the intake plenum *note not a stock plug, as everything has been modified Cheers
×
×
  • Create New...