Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

  • Replies 210
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Great! thanks soo much....my rims for sale or swap now :-P

If you get TE37's make sure you get a low offset, such as +22 or lower, then you'll have the concave look spokes. High offset TE37's look very average...

EDIT: Saw that you drive a R34 GTR, so obviously if you'll be after low offset wheels if you wish to fill out those guards.

Edited by ~Hypnotik~
If you get TE37's make sure you get a low offset, such as +22 or lower, then you'll have the concave look spokes. High offset TE37's look very average...

EDIT: Saw that you drive a R34 GTR, so obviously if you'll be after low offset wheels if you wish to fill out those guards.

mad thanks for the tips mate, i dont know much bout rim offsets etc

they look great though, ill be getting black ones or powedercoating them black etc

the smaller nissan bootlid badge , they changed to a larger nissan badge early 2001 all nur edition cars have the larger one

This is, of course, ignoring the fact that the car is painted Millennium Jade lol

I did think it may have been the millennium jade but in the first photo page 9 under lights its a little deceiving looked more like one of the silver colours , looking at the new photos from the rear it does have the larger bootlid badge again under lights the page 9 photo looks different ,my bad

Edited by gtr13
  • 1 month later...
  • 3 years later...

^^

EPIC !

In saying that would hate to own it as I know it would spend most of its life inside a garage due to paranoia of having its quality depreciate from too use and the fear of having someone steal something of such high value and mainly rarity.

^^

EPIC !

In saying that would hate to own it as I know it would spend most of its life inside a garage due to paranoia of having its quality depreciate from too use and the fear of having someone steal something of such high value and mainly rarity.

You're forgetting about the 'regular' R34 that you'd also own and would use for driving around :D

You're forgetting about the 'regular' R34 that you'd also own and would use for driving around :D

Would be good in an ideal world where I was on an extremely hefty pay figure or a lotto winner haha unfortunately I dont fit the criteria for either of the two :(

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • That's probably OK. That's a face to face compression joint between two surfaces with the clamping load provided by those bolts. So.... it's unlikely that the bolts will end up feeling that load in shear, unless the clamping surfaces are not large enough, bolts not got enough tension on them, etc etc to prevent the two faces from moving wrt each other. Which... I would hope the designers have considered, seeing as it's probably one of the most important things the upright has to do apart from resist collapsing in its own right. But yes, it would definitely be worth asking them what their safety factor on that part of the design was. I tend to think that the casting, being a casting, is not necessarily the strongest bit of material in the world. It's about an inch square, and when you think about the loads that are being put into it, you have to wonder what safety factor the Nissan boys (and every other OEM engineer who has designed all the millions of other uprights that look essentially the same) used to account for defective casting, aging, severe impacts on the wheel, etc etc. 
    • Those bolts would be orders of magnitude stronger that cast aluminium though.  And its mainly clamping force, not shear they are dealing with?
    • Except all that twisting force that is breaking a cast piece, appears to be going through 4 bolts in the picture Johnny posted of the BryPar one...
    • The smart approach is to use the gearbox loom from the manual car. Makes it a lot easier - just plugs into the switches on the box and plugs into the main loom up near the fusebox. Then you only need to deal with bypassing the inhibit switch. The other approach requires you to use the wiring diagram to identify those wires by colour and location, perhaps even indulging in a little multimeter action to trace them end to end to make sure, and then.... you will have the answers you need. The R34 wiring diagram is available on-line (no, I do not have a link to it myself - I would have to do a search if I wasn't able to go to the copy I have at home).
    • Hi, i’m converted my r34 4dr auto to manual but need help with gearbox wiring. There are bunch of wires no idea which one for speedo drive, neutral, reverse can anyone help me. IMG_6860.mov
×
×
  • Create New...