Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey!

I came over a cheap twin HKS 2530 set for a GTR a while ago and now im going to put them into my R33 GTST.

I was planning on going with twins (turbos that is :rant: ) earlier and when these came up i couldnt let them pass me by!

Now i would really appreciate if someone has got some useful information about the procedure, things like going top-mount or not, best way dealing with water/oillines etc. I've looked around alot for twinturbo build pics and found some that are really useful but i feel that its better to know things before i start building then finding it out myself on the way!

List of my mods now:

HKS intake system with the lousy fungys type-filter

5Zigen Catback

Greddy BC

HKS Turbotimer

FMIC

Intank Walbro 255 lph

Inline Walbro 255 lph (disengaged for now)

Cusco Brake cylinder stopper

RPS Max Series Clutch

On their way, as in somewhere in a postoffice :laugh: :

Stand alone engine mangement

Q45 AFM

Injectors (not ordered yet)

I will also rebuild the bottom end in a while but not just yet, but in the meantime i wanted to get the hardware sorted. Didnt mention other mods done to the chassie since they dont matter right now.

When it comes to welding the ex. manifold it wont be a problem since i've done that type of work earlier, its more the basic design im looking for ideas of.

To list up things i would like to get some tips or pics of :P

1. Topmount or not

2. Waterlines

2. Oillines

Any other useful information/tips is really appreciated!

Thanks and cheers!

-David

Give Jeffworld2 a PM.He has just finished putting twin GT-SSs on his 25 :)

He is a friendly chap and im sure wouldnt mind answering some of your questions. But when there is a full moon....thats a different story! :)

Give Jeffworld2 a PM.He has just finished putting twin GT-SSs on his 25 :)

He is a friendly chap and im sure wouldnt mind answering some of your questions. But when there is a full moon....thats a different story! :)

awesome look at my twin turbo setup on a 25

http://forums.nicoclub.com/zerothread?id=295315

awesome look at my twin turbo setup on a 25

http://forums.nicoclub.com/zerothread?id=295315

ok for oil lines u did a 12x1.25 fitting to a -4 an for stainless lines with a 2 male 1 female t fitting for the oil feeds, for return its 3/4 bpst so u need to combine lines and thats block return for oil, now water is 14x1.5 (not tooo sure) u want -6 an lines from feed on block going to the front of the water neck there is a nipple thats what i am using for return any input ?

Power figure??

List of engine mods?

engine mods are tomei valve springs, and oil orifice and metal headgasket, it has rb26 crank and been bored to make it 2.7, running a 740cc inj, power fc, and a custom intake manifold with velocity stacks, running stock r32 twin turbos until i can afford upgrade (wont be for a while) currently it does not run as its missing an assload of parts but it will be running by the end of the month

hah twins are the go lately apparently.

i'm very happy with mine but all the same it could have been done with a single.... but we will leave that one alone for now

we basically split all the feeds at the block, and made an extra oil return and plumbed the water returns trying to keep everything away from the exhausts. im sure you could even bodgey up something with standard rb26 lines if you mount the turbos in a similar position. mine are low mounted and i could probably even get away with r33 gtr dumps/front pipe. in my opinion you may be better off switching to a gtr head and using gtr ecu, makes everything a bit easier and you get the better head and inlet too. i'm running a single afm so the piping is 'interesting' but works very well. a non-afm ecu would make that a bit easier on you.

one day i will take pictures lol. pm me if your after some specific info. it was not simple but is fun to drive. be aware that the exhaust is now 2x as loud lol despite the same catback

hah twins are the go lately apparently.

i'm very happy with mine but all the same it could have been done with a single.... but we will leave that one alone for now

we basically split all the feeds at the block, and made an extra oil return and plumbed the water returns trying to keep everything away from the exhausts. im sure you could even bodgey up something with standard rb26 lines if you mount the turbos in a similar position. mine are low mounted and i could probably even get away with r33 gtr dumps/front pipe. in my opinion you may be better off switching to a gtr head and using gtr ecu, makes everything a bit easier and you get the better head and inlet too. i'm running a single afm so the piping is 'interesting' but works very well. a non-afm ecu would make that a bit easier on you.

one day i will take pictures lol. pm me if your after some specific info. it was not simple but is fun to drive. be aware that the exhaust is now 2x as loud lol despite the same catback

i did my oil differantly but water has me stumped, i got feed down just return is a pita, for freed i di da -4 an t from block with 2 -4 lines goin to banjo bolts on turbos

Thanks for all your tips! Really useful ones, especially about the oil and waterlines so thank you both stricnynel0s and jeffworld2

Still waiting for the wheather to warm up alittle so that i can drive it safely to the garage, got it parked at my mothers place for now, not that safe parking it on the street outside my apartment :blink:

As soon as i got it in the garage i can start ripping it apart, and try to get a descent idea for the manifold design, have got some good ideas from your build stricnynel0s. Just talked to a friend who also build twins, but thats in a MKIV Supra aiming at a bit higher figures then me right now, anywas he promised to help me out alot so thats great!

Got a carmeet coming up in a month, can not decide whether to start building it before or after that though, wanna be able to show it, even if that means keeping the hood closed :P

Heres a pic i took 2 days ago, when i drove it to my mothers place, doesnt quite feel like the right enviroment, does it?

http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/up..._829_128353.jpg

Looking at the difference in breathing efficiency through cam specs/timing, and compression ratio, I'd hazard a guess that there would be a reasonable (but not massive) spool advantage towards the 25. Perhaps 250rpm faster to hit max boost?

But then the 26 would make better power, continuing to produce torque as the revs climb.

The disadvantage with running stock 26 turbos would have to be (as usual) the ceramic turbines.

Looking at the difference in breathing efficiency through cam specs/timing, and compression ratio, I'd hazard a guess that there would be a reasonable (but not massive) spool advantage towards the 25. Perhaps 250rpm faster to hit max boost?

But then the 26 would make better power, continuing to produce torque as the revs climb.

The disadvantage with running stock 26 turbos would have to be (as usual) the ceramic turbines.

I would have thought the RB26 would be more resposive; larger displacement, better flowing head with larger cams, 6 throttle intake etc. Only down side i can see is the RB26 having a lower compression ratio. However surely a RB25 would still be slightly laggier with twins? Any one that has experienced both cars know?

ive still got vct going, and its fine driving around off boost. lag is a bit of an issue, but i have hks not stock turbos. power starts at around 4 and it screams by 5, but yeah you have to shift already around 7 whereas a gtr still has revs left at this level of modification. i would love a 26 head but its a bit late now

after reading this post

http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/Rb...itting+on+block

i am lost as what to do about water returns, the feed is EZ, but i do not have thestock water linees, i am gunna run an-6 lines from a t fitting from the block as feed, and for return, i was gunna try the nipple on the water neck, should i use rear heater core hose, i also gotta get cooant to my iavc since i change the oil housing to the rb20 one

Big power TT rb25 I had years ago. Photos are recent taken from the current owner, ignor the dust/dirt. New owner ditched AFM and went Djeto Power FC.

Oil and water lines were custom. Low mounted as it was more "stealth". Manifolds were factory cast GTR items that has the flange's cut off and re welded to suit the rb25 stud pattern.

Oversized forged pistons

Fully balanced

O ringed block

Major head work - Huge ports, a/m valves and springs ect ect

275 HKS cams

Custom cam gears

Greddy plenum

Q45 throttle body

100mm+ thick FMIC

GreddyBOV

Power FC

HKS 2530 turbos - Had them rebuilt using larger HKS 2535 wheels

HKS dumps

3inch front pipes

HKS 4inch super dragger exhaust

1000cc Sard injectors

300zx AFM (Might have been Q45, can't remeber)

Apexi pod filter

3/8 fuel lines

Malpassi fuel regulator

enginebay.jpg

fprfilterrelocate.jpg

fprfilterbatteryrelocate.jpg

pipesandfilterstoturbos.jpg

engine mods are tomei valve springs, and oil orifice and metal headgasket, it has rb26 crank and been bored to make it 2.7, running a 740cc inj, power fc, and a custom intake manifold with velocity stacks, running stock r32 twin turbos until i can afford upgrade (wont be for a while) currently it does not run as its missing an assload of parts but it will be running by the end of the month

please for the love of god.. dont have it running untill you replace those stock r32 turbos.. they will let go on you easily

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • You are selling this? I have never bought something from marketplace...i dont know if i trust that enough. And the price is little bit "too" good...
    • https://www.facebook.com/share/19kSVAc4tc/?mibextid=wwXIfr
    • It would be well worth deciding where you want to go and what you care about. Reliability of everything in a 34 drops MASSIVELY above the 300kw mark. Keeping everything going great at beyond that value will cost ten times the $. Clutches become shit, gearboxes (and engines/bottom ends) become consumable, traction becomes crap. The good news is looking legalish/actually being legal is slighly under the 300kw mark. I would make the assumption you want to ditch the stock plenum too and want to go a front facing unit of some description due to the cross flow. Do the bends on a return flow hurt? Not really. A couple of bends do make a difference but not nearly as much in a forced induction situation. Add 1psi of boost to overcome it. Nobody has ever gone and done a track session monitoring IAT then done a different session on a different intercooler and monitored IAT to see the difference here. All of the benefits here are likely in the "My engine is a forged consumable that I drive once a year because it needs a rebuild every year which takes 9 months of the year to complete" territory. It would be well worth deciding where you want to go and what you care about with this car.
    • By "reverse flow", do you mean "return flow"? Being the IC having a return pipe back behind the bumper reo, or similar? If so... I am currently making ~250 rwkW on a Neo at ~17-18 psi. With a return flow. There's nothing to indicate that it is costing me a lot of power at this level, and I would be surprised if I could not push it harder. True, I have not measured pressure drop across it or IAT changes, but the car does not seem upset about it in any way. I won't be bothering to look into it unless it starts giving trouble or doesn't respond to boost increases when I next put it on the dyno. FWIW, it was tuned with the boost controller off, so achieving ~15-16 psi on the wastegate spring alone, and it is noticeably quicker with the boost controller on and yielding a couple of extra pounds. Hence why I think it is doing OK. So, no, I would not arbitrarily say that return flows are restrictive. Yes, they are certainly restrictive if you're aiming for higher power levels. But I also think that the happy place for a street car is <300 rwkW anyway, so I'm not going to be aiming for power levels that would require me to change the inlet pipework. My car looks very stock, even though everything is different. The turbo and inlet pipes all look stock and run in the stock locations, The airbox looks stock (apart from the inlet being opened up). The turbo looks stock, because it's in the stock location, is the stock housings and can't really be seen anyway. It makes enough power to be good to drive, but won't raise eyebrows if I ever f**k up enough for the cops to lift the bonnet.
    • There is a guy who said he can weld me piping without having to cut chassis, maybe I do that ? Or do I just go reverse flow but isn’t reverse flow very limited once again? 
×
×
  • Create New...