Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

hi mate. the oil pump is nismo n1, the crank has a collar fitted. and all the clearances where checked with plastigauge.. i.e endfloat was checked with feeler gauges, and mains/big ends/oil pump-collar gaps were checked, also its all balanced ..bernie

Edited by rockabilly
i was being sarcastic as thats not an overly accurate way of measuring clearances lol

Furry muff.. is there a better way to measure clearances with everything torque'd down?

Oh and when I decide to take my RB30 passed 400rwhp I reckon I'll get one of your cranks to go with the new rods.. 3.4L FTW :thumbsup:

G`Day all,I would like to know what some of you have done o standard crank`s if it worth spending any time cleaning them up cast mark`s ?,weight loss ???,cheer`s chuckie.

If big capacity is wanted why don't you guys go the the nissan v8s ?

While that would be fun it was too much headache and then turbo'ing it would be a nightmare.. the idea is still floating around in the back of my head so maybe one day :laugh:

Chuckie, all I did to my crank is have it ground for oversize bearings. My engine isn't going to be seeing huge revs or MASSIVE power for quite some time, when I get to that stage I'll re-do the crank aswell as new rods etc (or likely get one of these 3.4L cranks :bunny:)

On that note, these bigger cranks.. will they already have the long oil drive and all the other goodies people do to their cranks (grub screwing etc)?

  • 2 weeks later...

Well from all the advice I have received (forum users, tuner and mechanic), 400rwhp seems to be an acceptable cap for now. When I decide I want more, engine will come out and get new rods and a balance along with some head/manifold porting.

more interested in what kind of RPM limit it can handle - especially so after a balance and knifeblade.

are the rods more likely to go before the crank at higher revs?

RPM is far more savage on the up & down bits (pistons and rods) than the round & round bits (crank). They have to stop, change direction and accelerate, then stop, change direction and accelerate again etc while the crank simply rotates. I could see the probability of 1,000 bhp out of a standard crank, but 1,000 bhp out of standard rods is not in my wildest dreams, pistons forget about it.

Cheers

Gary

SK, I might be misunderstanding, are you saying that if the revs aren't excessive then the rods should be able to handle a lot more than 4-500hp? I have my 30 limited to 6800rpm, reckon I would be able to push more than 400rwhp on the stock rods with that limit?

SK, I might be misunderstanding, are you saying that if the revs aren't excessive then the rods should be able to handle a lot more than 4-500hp? I have my 30 limited to 6800rpm, reckon I would be able to push more than 400rwhp on the stock rods with that limit?

RIPS have pushed the stock rods and pistons to 750hp on nos a few times for fun, then wind it back down to 600hp for the street...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Hi, is the HKS  Tower Bar still available ? negotiable ? 🤔
    • From there, it is really just test and assemble. Plug the adapter cables from the unit into the back of the screen, then the other side to the car harness. Don't forget all the other plugs too! Run the cables behind the unit and screw it back into place (4 screws) and you should now have 3 cables to run from the top screen to the android unit. I ran them along the DS of the other AV units in the gap between their backets and the console, and used some corrugated tubing on the sharp edges of the bracket so the wires were safe. Plug the centre console and lower screen in temporarily and turn the car to ACC, the AV should fire up as normal. Hold the back button for 3 sec and Android should appear on the top screen. You need to set the input to Aux for audio (more on that later). I put the unit under the AC duct in the centre console, with the wifi antenna on top of the AC duct near the shifter, the bluetooth antenna on the AC duct under the centre console The GPS unit on top of the DS to AC duct; they all seem to work OK there are are out of the way. Neat cable routing is a pain. For the drive recorder I mounted it near the rear view mirror and run the cable in the headlining, across the a pillar and then down the inside of the a pillar seal to the DS lower dash. From there it goes across and to one USB input for the unit. The second USB input is attached to the ECUtec OBD dongle and the 3rd goes to the USB bulkhead connected I added in the centre console. This is how the centre console looks "tidied" up Note I didn't install the provided speaker, didn't use the 2.5mm IPod in line or the piggyback loom for the Ipod or change any DIP switches; they seem to only be required if you need to use the Ipod input rather than the AUX input. That's it, install done, I'll follow up with a separate post on how the unit works, but in summary it retains all factory functions and inputs (so I still use my phone to the car for calls), reverse still works like factory etc.
    • Place the new daughterboard in the case and mount it using the 3 small black rivets provided, and reconnect the 3 factory ribbon cables to the new board Then, use the 3 piggyback cables from the daughterboard into the factory board on top (there are stand offs in the case to keep them apart. and remember to reconnect the antenna and rear cover fan wires. 1 screw to hold the motherboard in place. Before closing the case, make a hole in the sticker covering a hole in the case and run the cable for the android unit into the plug there. The video forgot this step, so did I, so will you probably. Then redo the 4 screws on back, 2 each top and bottom, 3 each side and put the 2 brackets back on.....all ready to go and not that tricky really.      
    • Onto the android unit. You need to remove the top screen because there is a daughterboard to put inside the case. Each side vent pops out from clips; start at the bottom and carefully remove upwards (use a trim remover tool to avoid breaking anything). Then the lower screen and controls come out, 4 screws, a couple of clips (including 3 flimsy ones at the top) and 3 plugs on the rear. Then the upper screen, 4 screws and a bunch of plugs and she is out. From there, remove the mounting brackets (2 screws each), 4 screws on the rear, 2 screws top and bottom and 3 screws holding in the small plates on each side. When you remove the back cover (tight fit), watch out for the power cable for the fan, I removed it so I could put the back aside. The mainboard is held in by 1 screw in the middle, 1 aerial at the top and 3 ribbon cables. If you've ever done any laptop stuff the ribbon cables are OK to work with, just pop up the retainer and they slide out. If you are not familiar just grab a 12 year old from an iphone factory, they will know how it works The case should now look like this:
    • Switching the console was tricky. First there were 6 screws to remove, and also the little adapter loom and its screws had to come out. Also don't forget to remove the 2 screws holding the central locking receiver. Then there are 4 clips on either side....these were very tight in this case and needed careful persuading with a long flat screw driver....some force required but not enough to break them...this was probably the fiddliest part of the whole job. In my case I needed both the wiring loom and the central locking receiver module to swap across to the new one. That was it for the console, so "assembly is the reverse of disassembly"
×
×
  • Create New...