Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

just half moon slot the sides of the conrod on the edge of the bearing seat, side face. Simple :wacko:

what are you on about?

bearing seat? you mean the tangs (little notches in the big end tunnel of the conrod) or you talking about the actual big end tunnel or big end journal?

1/2 moon slot the sides?

i was talking in reference to oil squirters....

not the tang. I said on the side of the conrod. ill put up a picture...pretty well most conrods have this done nowadays...

post-12828-1240368928_thumb.jpg

post-12828-1240368973_thumb.jpg

i understand but i think they ment the oil squirters that sit in the crank case area just under the sleeves

i believe this is about as good as it gets as its pretty painful to setup a proper oil squirter system like those in a 25/26. Admittedly it would be good for reduced piston heat...but your also adding more oil to the windage foundation. And that is an area that not alot of people look at, or even know exists.

  • 2 weeks later...
  • 2 weeks later...
  • 3 weeks later...

i did find a 100mm rb stroker crank through one of our customers, he is asking for 7400 for the kit, though with some v6 stroker cranks from them the quality wasnt the best, on dummy assemble we found the strokes varied per cylinder and we had to off set grind a plus 30 to rectify

  • 4 weeks later...

I have 2 RB30 stroker crank samples , 12 custom rods and 12 custom CP pistons due mid July. A trial engine will be assembled and run, then if all is ok production will start.

So hopefully all things being equal Ill have kits ready to go Nov/Dec this year.

I just received my first CA18 and SR20 stroker cranks - pics or of CA18 87.6mm

post-220-1246093098_thumb.jpg

post-220-1246093117_thumb.jpg

Edited by Spoolup
I have 2 RB30 stroker crank samples , 12 custom rods and 12 custom CP pistons due mid July. A trial engine will be assembled and run, then if all is ok production will start.

So hopefully all things being equal Ill have kits ready to go Nov/Dec this year.

I just received my first CA18 and SR20 stroker cranks - pics or of CA18 87.6mm

Nice work! look like I'll be building a 3.4L on the side come Xmas :P

I have 2 RB30 stroker crank samples , 12 custom rods and 12 custom CP pistons due mid July. A trial engine will be assembled and run, then if all is ok production will start.

So hopefully all things being equal Ill have kits ready to go Nov/Dec this year.

I just received my first CA18 and SR20 stroker cranks - pics or of CA18 87.6mm

I put a post on the NICO.com CA18 about the cranks, they were interested a while ago when i mentioned in a thread about aftermarket CA rods that you were making a stroker crank. Keep an eye on it if you want.

Here's the NICO thread i'll post one up on NS.com as well;

http://forums.nicoclub.com/zerothread/4341...ker-crank-876mm

P.S. whats the cost of the CA crank?

EDIT!!

The NS.com thread;

http://www.nissansilvia.com/forums/index.p...howtopic=393047

Edited by D_Stirls
  • 1 month later...
  • 1 month later...

does anyone know if you can buy the colar that you screw onto your crank, or do you make it?

my engine builder is asking me to find out as i think he didnt put one on when he built my 17k RB30/26 build of only 2000k before it broke the brand new N1 oil pump gears the first time i gave it a decent rev.

whats the best option?

Aproxx 600rwhp

Yes you can buy collars (Spool, among others, sell them).

Not exactly screw on though, you have to machine the snub of the crank down, press the collar on then drill/tap for grub screws.

Edited by bubba

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Mixing things up - installed some leather recaros to match the leather seat covered rear seats. Interior looks pretty schmick now except for some slight wear on the steering wheel which I will monitor and address if it becomes worse or actually noticeable!  
    • Didnt realise RB's had more then 1 head.
    • I'm normally copping my own abuse from neglecting my daily drivers. "Those suspension bushes will last a bit more", "Don't worry about the oil leak, just keep topping it up". The project cars I'm always doing things slowly on them as I'm wanting them to be done better, and neater, and nicer. Luckily I don't have to deal with 18 year old Matt's "Learning to wire" stuff in the project cars. And there's only one piece of wiring I'm displeased about in the Landcruiser, and it's about to be cut out... However, the box loads of parts that have been going through this place lately for the Landcruiser... Brake pads Brake Rotors Full handbrake overhaul Wheel Bearings Seals Swivel hubs Steering Boxes Half the suspension joints Shocks Air bags (Ones to go in the rear springs for towing) Water pump Timing kit Lower timing case Harmonic Balancer Radiator Lots of other little seals and shits Gas struts for the bonnet New power window switches And god knows what else I've forgotten... Ha ha ha I have my fingers crossed the pinion seals don't start leaking on the diffs, that the transfer case doesn't leak, and the gearbox input shaft doesn't leak, nor the rear main seal. As they're about the only seals I haven't replaced in the driveline! I'm seriously eyeing off buying new caliper rebuild kits front and rear brake calipers... I'll probably recheck all the valve clearances soon too, and hopefully, it should be all good and sweet to haul some long distance trips again!
    • Every time I pull my 3x gauges out of the console and see the crack-addict way that I did the wiring, and I just can't bring myself to tear it all apart and "make it nice", because it is currently working. In fact, the last time I was in there I probably made it worse.
    • The best part is when you own the car long enough that you look back and find your OWN ham fisted amateur shit!
×
×
  • Create New...