Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

just half moon slot the sides of the conrod on the edge of the bearing seat, side face. Simple :wacko:

what are you on about?

bearing seat? you mean the tangs (little notches in the big end tunnel of the conrod) or you talking about the actual big end tunnel or big end journal?

1/2 moon slot the sides?

i was talking in reference to oil squirters....

not the tang. I said on the side of the conrod. ill put up a picture...pretty well most conrods have this done nowadays...

post-12828-1240368928_thumb.jpg

post-12828-1240368973_thumb.jpg

i understand but i think they ment the oil squirters that sit in the crank case area just under the sleeves

i believe this is about as good as it gets as its pretty painful to setup a proper oil squirter system like those in a 25/26. Admittedly it would be good for reduced piston heat...but your also adding more oil to the windage foundation. And that is an area that not alot of people look at, or even know exists.

  • 2 weeks later...
  • 2 weeks later...
  • 3 weeks later...

i did find a 100mm rb stroker crank through one of our customers, he is asking for 7400 for the kit, though with some v6 stroker cranks from them the quality wasnt the best, on dummy assemble we found the strokes varied per cylinder and we had to off set grind a plus 30 to rectify

  • 4 weeks later...

I have 2 RB30 stroker crank samples , 12 custom rods and 12 custom CP pistons due mid July. A trial engine will be assembled and run, then if all is ok production will start.

So hopefully all things being equal Ill have kits ready to go Nov/Dec this year.

I just received my first CA18 and SR20 stroker cranks - pics or of CA18 87.6mm

post-220-1246093098_thumb.jpg

post-220-1246093117_thumb.jpg

Edited by Spoolup
I have 2 RB30 stroker crank samples , 12 custom rods and 12 custom CP pistons due mid July. A trial engine will be assembled and run, then if all is ok production will start.

So hopefully all things being equal Ill have kits ready to go Nov/Dec this year.

I just received my first CA18 and SR20 stroker cranks - pics or of CA18 87.6mm

Nice work! look like I'll be building a 3.4L on the side come Xmas :P

I have 2 RB30 stroker crank samples , 12 custom rods and 12 custom CP pistons due mid July. A trial engine will be assembled and run, then if all is ok production will start.

So hopefully all things being equal Ill have kits ready to go Nov/Dec this year.

I just received my first CA18 and SR20 stroker cranks - pics or of CA18 87.6mm

I put a post on the NICO.com CA18 about the cranks, they were interested a while ago when i mentioned in a thread about aftermarket CA rods that you were making a stroker crank. Keep an eye on it if you want.

Here's the NICO thread i'll post one up on NS.com as well;

http://forums.nicoclub.com/zerothread/4341...ker-crank-876mm

P.S. whats the cost of the CA crank?

EDIT!!

The NS.com thread;

http://www.nissansilvia.com/forums/index.p...howtopic=393047

Edited by D_Stirls
  • 1 month later...
  • 1 month later...

does anyone know if you can buy the colar that you screw onto your crank, or do you make it?

my engine builder is asking me to find out as i think he didnt put one on when he built my 17k RB30/26 build of only 2000k before it broke the brand new N1 oil pump gears the first time i gave it a decent rev.

whats the best option?

Aproxx 600rwhp

Yes you can buy collars (Spool, among others, sell them).

Not exactly screw on though, you have to machine the snub of the crank down, press the collar on then drill/tap for grub screws.

Edited by bubba

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • (it is a brand new ported mellings pump) I suspect the lack of pressure is due to the leak. It was *not* that low in other logs of oil pressure in the past. It wasn't that hot either, but not far off.
    • Would a Mellings oil pump be a viable option  From my time with a LS, and talking to tuners and LS specialists, the "weak" OEM oil pump is one of the first things they recommend to swap out if I was going to give the engine any high RPM I opted for a Mellings high volume, with the high pressure springs and I never had a issue with it Cost wise they are not expensive in the scheme of things 
    • Just bought a 2002 Stagea 250tRS VR-X Four AERO VQ25DET and spent the last two weekends cleaning and detailing it.. still have to do the wheels and the engine bay but the rest of it came up nice. Imported 2011 to S.A. and I'm the third owner since it was imported. I met the guy who brought it over, he went to Japan and picked out the car, bought it and ordered the wheels. He also gave me a list of stuff he did to the car with receipts. Coil overs (I have the original springs), 3" exhaust from the dump pipe back no cat, Custom dump pipe,(I have the original exhaust), Plenum spacer, 18" custom Work XSA wheels (need restoring, I've made a start..), Shift kit put through the 5 speed tiptronic auto, TV and menus/screens changed to english, Australian DTV tuner installed in rear. I've just had four new discs and new pads as well as all the fluids including the brake fluid replaced. I have all the receipts for the last 15 years and the import papers in a nice folder. Car looks great, goes like hell but fuel economy is not a thing lol.. pics next..
    • I ended up in this rut again lol, and used a shit ton of filler. One thing I can't understand is, even after using a big long block and going in long X pattern strokes, I always end up at bare metal again with no filler, and my repair started at one end of the door and now I've chased my tail to almost the other end of the door. I was thinking of hitting the panel with a hammer where it might be a high spot and making everything low then filling it, I did this on a small section on my other door by mistake and I think I fixed it lol. Is this a bad idea? The other thing is with guidecoat, whether it's the powder or spray, after I sand all the guide coat off, it doesn't reveal anything for me in terms of high spots and low spots and makes it especially hard when it's bare metal (at least in powdered form), am I doing something wrong here, or likely a high spot I keep going over and creating valleys? Lastly, stupid question but, is it possible that after sanding if I only sand over the filler area where I know to be a dent that it's impossible for me to dig into that dent? Unless there are other problems which I missed.  
×
×
  • Create New...