Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

  • Replies 410
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Top Posters In This Topic

Posted Images

Ive always used semi's on the dry skid pans for timed events, works well and have placed pretty well in scoring in them.

The trick is, smoother is better, hand brake turns would be the only time they get worn (besides the start on take off, and any lock up) If you time the hand break turn right, you'll have minimal wear anyway :(

So in other words....Don't be a girl :P :P :(

DM - haha nice one!! Your just lucky my 33 isnt going to be there for your competition :(

Ive always used semi's on the dry skid pans for timed events, works well and have placed pretty well in scoring in them.

The trick is, smoother is better, hand brake turns would be the only time they get worn (besides the start on take off, and any lock up) If you time the hand break turn right, you'll have minimal wear anyway :(

So in other words....Don't be a girl :P :P :)

DM - haha nice one!! Your just lucky my 33 isnt going to be there for your competition :(

LOL, Ok then - I'll use my semi's, you use yours and we'll see who ends up being quicker than who :(

Quick question... Is anyone going on the dry skidpan with semi slicks on?

I know that there are a lot of handbrake turns needed but the problem will be that I have a nice new set of semi slicks that I have just finished bedding in and I dont really want to shred them in one day. :D

My semis are already bolted on and I will be driving to Canberra on them. Can’t be bothered tracking two sets of tyres. If I smoke them on then skid pan so be it. I know smooth is faster but smoke and sideways is more fun. I will drive properly on the track (I promise). Mine are only Azenis so they are not real semis anyway.

Go dirty sartywan's!!!!

i'll be there in tha sillo, with slidie tyrez on ze rearz

GOING FOR SLOWEST YET MOST ENTERTAINING ON SKID PAN!!!

*still be quicker then Bullet32*

proper semis will be rubbish without a warm up.

if you have something like a 595rs or rt215/615 thats been scrubbed in it's the tyre to have in this sort of event. Something that has highish grip but doesn't need a lot of heat to get going. I've found my RS's to be pretty damn good on a skid pan

I would have loved to have been involved in this but i have work tomorrow and the car's still off the road. Hopefully next time. I so want to drive that back bit of track :D.

Im not racing at all :(

remember last years one?

I did 1.40 and came 5th :)

well last time i came 14th with a 31 with stock motor and suspension and locked diff.

only the diff is the same, so bring it on!! hahaha

Go dirty sartywan's!!!!

i'll be there in tha sillo, with slidie tyrez on ze rearz

GOING FOR SLOWEST YET MOST ENTERTAINING ON SKID PAN!!!

*still be quicker then Bullet32*

you might be the slowest, but i you've got some competition for most entertaining. mmmm sidepipe FTW!!!

DM

well last time i came 14th with a 31 with stock motor and suspension and locked diff.

only the diff is the same, so bring it on!! hahaha

you might be the slowest, but i you've got some competition for most entertaining. mmmm sidepipe FTW!!!

DM

After I set a good skid pan time, I'll be giving it a good old go for entertainment too. ACT FTW!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

Guest
This topic is now closed to further replies.



  • Latest Posts

    • Ha, well, it's been.... a bit of a journey. Things have taken much longer than I'd hoped. I'll probably put up a thread at some stage. Hopefully soon. The car's not done any kms since my update in June though, put it that way.
    • Here's the chart for fuel pressure vs. current draw, assuming your base fuel pressure is 3 bar and you run like 0.5bar boost on WOT, you should only momentarily hit 9amps here and there. (Ignore my prev post, I cannot read a chart these days it seems)
    • Those comp test results are not hideous. Whether they are accurate or not (ie, when that comp tester says 140 psi, is the real pressure120, 140 or 160?) is unknown to us. The state of the battery used to crank it over is unknown, etc etc. Many people around here would say that the absolute values and the spread are perfectly fine to just add boost and keep going. I personally would be happier with a narrower spread than that, but even the diff between 125 and 145 is not terrible. That one cylinder at 125 though, has probably copped some damage relative to the others. You should inspect the valves seeing as you've got it open. Do you know how to measure installed ring gaps? That, and an inspection of the rings themselves, is how you will determine whether they need to be replaced. If you're not good to do these things, take the block and the pistons and rings to a shop that is, and ask them for the go/no-go on them. Do the bores need a hone at all? If so, you might well be justified in getting some different pistons in order to get away from the ring supply problem. Whether you're happy to spend a lot more money right now, on more gear, rather than less money, but an amount that looks stupid given that you will only get a handful of rings in exchange for that money, is for you to decide.
    • also possibly backed up to my filler and shat down it! 🤣
    • Ok so i would love some advice here please, i purchased an R33 a few months back and its had a few mods done to the engine, its an RB25det running a Master ECU, 1200cc injectors, bigger turbo, oil cooler, oil filter relocation kit, Spool H-beam rods, acl/ross pistons. When i removed the motor from the vehicle (as its getting a respray) i thought i would compression test it and these are the following results. Cylinder 1-145psi, Cylinder 2-143psi, Cylinder 3-125psi, Cylinder 4-145psi, Cylinder 5-140psi, Cylinder 6-135psi this test was done with the motor on the ground and powering up the starter motor. I dropped the sump and found broken oil squirters on cylinder 3,5 and 6. I was told my rings are probably worn so i stripped the motor completely to get a new set of rings for it. The trouble is no one has these rings anywhere and they have to be custom made by Ross over in the states and will cost about $600+$200 delivery. My question is how can i tell if my rings are at fault and if they are still ok and is this price ok for a set of rings?
×
×
  • Create New...