Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

I've got a problem with my friend's 180SX.

After it is warm it only takes 3-4 full throttle runs to redline to get his water temp up to the 90s, and it takes ages to come back down. He used to drift it at Winton with no issues until one day when it just overheated on the track and has been doing it ever since.

Since that day, to try and fix it we have:

- Rebuilt head. Cleaned up the whole thing, port and polished the ports and installed new head gasket.

- Removed thermostat.

- Installed Alloy Radiator

- Installed Twin Thermos

- Bypassed heater core

- Changed Water Pump

- Flushed the whole system

And it still does it! Can anyone think of anything we've missed? One of our friends suggested that the water pump could be sucking the radiator hose closed at high rpm, but I've never heard of that happening before?

Car is running a T518Z, is an SR and is making around 240rwkw if it makes any difference.

Thanks,

Peter

Edited by Equinox
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/213318-overheating-180sx/
Share on other sites

not to sure about your engine, but on the Rb26 if you remove the thermostat entirely then the water will bypass the block and just go straight out the outlet pipe as its only 100 mm apart. As most things it will take the path of least resistance and the rb26 has a 25 mm hole in the back of the themostat house which is connected the outlet pipe on the head.

Here is a writeup I did for NICO Club (US), maybe something in it will help.

OMG my RB is overheating

Oh, and the water pump sucking the line closed, that was my problem I believe. When I replaced the lower hose, which was soft with an OEM unit from tweakit, the overheating problem I had at constant higher RPM (Freeway) went away.

Edited by cpt_impossible

I'm pretty sure that an oil cooler will go a long way to fixing your heating problems. The thrust turbo's heat the oil up quite a bit as they are oil cooled and they run hotter than the equivalent water cooled BB turbos.

Do you have a SR with the factory heat exchanger on top of the oil filter or not? (some did some didn't) Even if it does they don't work very well.

I was having the same heating problems with my CA18 as i was getting oil temps around the 105 mark and water temps around 95 in general driving. As soon as i fitted an oil cooler i didn't get engine temps above the factory 82 degree's and the oil temps haven't been above 90 degrees

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Oh, also, forgot to add these photos I believe.
    • Thought i'd update on this. I was able to get in contact with Craig Lieberman and later on Darryl Alison (owner of Kaizo Industries). Darryl was able to help me verify that my car was in fact one of theirs and is helping me find more info on mine !
    • There's restrictor pills in the stock boost control hoses. That's how they set the amount that was bled off and hence the "high" boost setting. The usual mod in the day was to remove it and send the "high" boost setting up to about 14 psi.
    • Thanks Duncan, that's the best info I've read. Furthermore after learning about the PCM programming side controlling the factory boost solenoid, the purpose of the solenoid is to "bleed" boost when pin 25 is earthed, thus allowing spring pressure in the wastegate actuator to overcome diaphragm boost pressure, thus closing or reducing the position of the wastegate flap creating more boost as the turbo is able to spin faster. It's pretty cool to see a designated Pill to do exactly this, would have liked to have seen it with a tiny filter over the end for those moments in vacuum.  The constant bleed pill has now been removed completely from the system and solenoid boost control has been restored once again.   Case closed 😂
    • The wideband reading is meaningless if it's not running. Why are you using shitty old sidefeeds on any engine, let alone a Neo? What manifold and fuel rail are you using to achieve that? Beyond that, can't help you with AEM stuff as I've never been their ECU/CAS combo.
×
×
  • Create New...