Jump to content
SAU Community

Which one is best for export?  

133 members have voted

You do not have permission to vote in this poll, or see the poll results. Please sign in or register to vote in this poll.

Recommended Posts

  • Replies 148
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Yeah, Omar...cereal has been pretty negative in the past. He seemed to be speaking for all of us which i didnt like..so...

Not true.

I, and many other people whom have a lot more experience purchasing cars in Japan than you, offered you sane advice which you chose to completely ignore.

And then you magically arrived at a decision that takes all that advice into account a month later and claim it as your own.

Not true.

I, and many other people whom have a lot more experience purchasing cars in Japan than you, offered you sane advice which you chose to completely ignore.

And then you magically arrived at a decision that takes all that advice into account a month later and claim it as your own.

*********EDIT*********

Most of them seem to be Automatic, hopefully a manual one will pop up soon.

I saw this auto one go for a bit over 2 million on Wednesday

5814557380F.jpg

5814557380R.jpg

5814557380I.jpg

Anyway a decision has been reached, so let's just worry about getting m3gtr in a car!

Yeah James,I think it only added 100 kg's or thereabouts and its basically the same config. Its just teh hatch they had to sort out... I have to say though that i have a surprise in store.

Nice choice. All that performance in a wagon. It is the sort of car family guys like me love. Will fit the family and the Mountain bike or skis.

I felt bad being the first to select a Mitsubishi on a Nissan forum but it is an exteptional car. Would be the only Mitsubishi I would ever consider owning.

Cheers

Andy

Well, its done.

Finance has been approved and the car is right in my grasp.

You'll see it soon enough...and its not an evo wagon. ;)

Sorry Laurence, beers on me when i bring the car down to see you in 'Saka. :D

Edited by m3gtr

oh, and adam, don't be a weener. if you didn't want people to know about your car and what you are buying you probably shouldn't have started all these threads about it... we want details. and pics. onegaishimasu.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • If you take the top half of the intake off you can unbolt the flap off the shaft and leave the shaft in there blocking the hole. Then you can remove the little vacuum canister off from under the manifold and get a spare vacuum line to run to the ECU. I can take some photos of it later. Probably best to get the vacuum source to the ECU sorted first though. Mine all worked mint with the base map from the GTT an I've pretty much let the closed loop sort the fueling and took 1 degree out of the whole timing map.
    • This IS something you also have to configure in Haltech (or at least I did in the past when going from onboard-to-ECU map sensor and an external MAP sensor in haltech land).
    • I'm hoping it's something as simple as the ECU is looking for an external MAP sensor, but he is trying to use the onboard MAP sensor.
    • You won't need to do that if your happy to learn to tune it yourself. You 100% do not need to do that. It is not part of the learning process. It's not like driving on track and 'finding the limit by stepping over the limit'. You should not ever accidently blow up an engine and you should have setup the ECU's engine protection to save you from yourself while you are learning anyway. Plenty of us have tuned their own cars, myself included. We still come here for advice/guidance/new ideas etc.  What have you been doing so far to learn how to tune?
    • Put the ECU's MAP line in your mouth. Blow as hard as you can. You should be able to see about 10 kPa, maybe 15 kPa positive pressure. Suck on it. You should be able to generate a decent vacuum to about the same level also. Note that this is only ~2 psi either way. If the MAP is reading -5 psi all the time, ignition on, engine running or not, driving around or not, then it is severely f**ked. Also, you SHOULD NOT BE DRIVING IT WITHOUT A LOAD REFERENCE. You will break the engine. Badly.
×
×
  • Create New...