Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

hey guys, does anyone know wot the power gain is in gettin a dump/front pipe and a high flow cat in a r33?? Atm i get 170rwkw i dont have a front mount yet, and is it safe to get a dump pipe even if i dont have a front mount??

cheers michael

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/213685-dump-pipe-high-flow-cat/
Share on other sites

hey that will be a awesome mod....i made 180 rwkw on 7psi and all i had was split dump, highflow car and 3.5" trust cat back.....sounds nice and yes its worth it and its safe even without a front mount....but once you get a front mount you car will run a lot cooler and better

Installed dump pipe (3" bellmouth, just jap SS $220), basic hi-flow 3"cat, SITC and R34 GTT 'cooler

had a 20awkw gain from 140awkw to 160awkw

already had fuel pump, adj.fpr, safcII, 12psi, that netted me 20awkw at the previous tune from 120 to 140awkw

IMO the r34 coolers arnt worth an upgrade over the r33, better off getting a proper front mount (you dont need to go massive).

the r34 cooler stayed on for less than half a year. using a return feed apexi fmic from a 180sx now along with a hiflow turbo, z32afm for 180awkw 14psi

dump pipe and good hi-flow cat will net 20rwkw

get it tuned right tho with each mod as you go along on the mod journey...

Finallyyyyy got my dump/front pipe and high flow cat done today, along with just the usuals, car sounds a fair bit meaner and the whistling is Alottt louder and comes in earlier than before :) , even tho i have a stock BOV and just an apexi pod i have been pulled over twice and tried to b defected and i keep telling em its all stock.......shits mee! And just my luck the dyno had a problem today so they were unable to tune it and stuff, goto love the timing :) . keep u guys posted on the total rwkw gain, really hard to tell just by driving it.

if you have same mods as me then you should be looking at a good 175-180rwkw.....and yes its a whole lot better now that you have aftermarket dump and cat as it will be more free flowing

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • My guesstimate, with no real numbers to back it up, is it won't effect it greatly at all.its not a huge change in position, and I can't see the air flow changing from in turbulence that much based on distance, and what's in front of it. Johnny and Brad may have some more numbers to share from experience though.
    • Which solenoid? Why was it changed? Again, why was this done? ...well, these wear..but ultimately, why was it changed? Did you reset the idle voltage level after fitment? I'm just a tad confused ~ the flash code doesn't allude to these items being faulty, so in my mind the only reason to change these things, would be some drive-ability issue....and if that's the case, what was the problem? Those questions aside, check if the dropping resistor is OK ...should be 11~14 ohms (TCU doesn't throw a flash code for this) ~ also, these TCU designs have full time power (to keep fault code RAM alive), and I think that'll throw a logic code (as opposed to the 10 hardware codes), if that power is missing (or the ram has gone bad in the TCU, which you can check..but that's another story here perhaps).
    • Question for people who "know stuff" I am looking at doing the new intake like the one in the picture (the pictured is designed for the OEM TB and intake plenum), this design has the filter behind the front bar, but, the filter sits where the OEM duct heads into the front bar, and the standard aperture when the OEM ducting is removed allows the filter to pulled back out of the front bar into the engine bay for servicing, a simple blanking plate is used to seal the aperture behind the filter This will require a 45° silicone hose from the TB, like the alloy pipe that is currently there, to another 45° silicone hose to get a straight run to the aperture in the front bar Question: how will it effect the tune if I move the MAF about 100-150mm forward, the red is around where my MAF is currently, and the green would be where it would end up Like this This is the hole the filter goes through  Ends up like this LOL..Cheers    
    • Despite the level up question, actually I do know what that is....it is a pressure sender wire.  So check out around the oil filter for an oil pressure sender, or maybe fuel pressure near the filter or on the engine. Possibly but less likely coolant pressure sensor because they tend to be combined temp/pressure senders if you have one. Could also be brake pressure (in a brake line somewhere pre ABS) but maybe I'm the only one that has that on a skyline.
    • Pull codes via the self-diagnosis procedure. As far as I can tell this is just a sign of transmission issues but not a code unto itself.
×
×
  • Create New...