Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey guys,

Soon if all goes well I'll be getting my hands on some poncams, obviously having to rip open the head to install them its open to be polished and ported. Now I know a few people have asked the same question as ive searched and it seems dependent on cost and mods.

So, I have everything In my Sig and will be adding the Z32, powerfc, Injectors, Poncams and perhaps a fuel rail, will deff be adding a fuel pump too.

I basically wanted to add the cams to bring power all the way to redline with the highflow and hopefully bring boost on early. Also to reduce the stress on the stock bottom end by running less boost.

Firstly whats the expected cost to install cams?

Secondly I understand Polishing is not advised on a Rb head due to fuel spray issues correct? so porting would be my best option, my main want is to bring boost on early and again reduce impact on stock bottom end (the more I talk about it the more I want to look for a RB30 bottom :) )

Would porting be advised for my engine? I dont feel a 1500$ race port job would be essential but perhaps just a average port work no more than $500. Is it worth it?

I was thinking the best guys to do the cam install and porting would be northen beaches performance as they are quite close to me and also seem reputable/trustworthy (from first inspection when I dropped in) without being rude, does anyone not advise them to do the work?

Also I understand my best option is to talk with them, but wanted advice and prices here first. I also would also deff be getting them to install clutch and timing belt too, so it can handle the bigger power from the start.

Thanks!

Edited by DECIM8
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/214959-cams-and-portpolish/
Share on other sites

poncams :)

go procams man :D

anyway OT. PRICEWISE=

firstly my mechanic quoted me 400 bucks to install, springs, cams, solid lifters.

secondly he quoted that the machining will cost me about 1500. that includes regrinding the head to fit 272/10.25mm cams.

Im also thinking of putting a set of poncams into my r34. Are you sure you need to take the whole head off? Im not sure what it would cost but I have had most of my work and servicing done by NBP and they do a really good job. Does anyone know if you would gain much from some type B poncams on a stock turbo? I'm aiming for a HKS GTRS later on just wondering if there were gains to be had on a stock turbo running 12PSI?

Doubt it, you could try it Im sure it would yield some result but is it really worth the $700 + install. when you have not yet bought a bigger turbo?

Dont think so.. wait till you have the Turbo.

Oh and while the cams are going in why not do more?! might take longer to save the dosh but you're passengers will thank you for it... oh yeah and my bottom end wont go boom(too soon)

Edited by DECIM8

Firstly, you don't have to take the head off to R&R the cams. If you are going with Poncams (my preferred and often used choice), what I would do is to shim up the standard valve springs. They are very soft when new and loose seat pressure over time. Your cam installer should also know how to do that without removing the head. If he doesn't, then get another cam installer.

Head work is usually charged by the hour, that's why you won't get a fixed price. Heads differ, combustion chamber volumes are not all the same, matching to the inlet and exhaust manifolds is not always perfect. Some heads are easy and ~$600 covers it, some are harder and you need ~$800, but it should never go over $1K.

Cheers

Gary

IMO not really.

Ive never done major head work other than a basic tidy up, and run over 300rwkw, and never really noticed anything 'lacking' in my setups to those who've had cams, porting and so on.

I make the same peak power, boost delivery/rpm boost comes on etc was mostly the same and i was 2k better off :P

Firstly, you don't have to take the head off to R&R the cams. If you are going with Poncams (my preferred and often used choice), what I would do is to shim up the standard valve springs. They are very soft when new and loose seat pressure over time. Your cam installer should also know how to do that without removing the head. If he doesn't, then get another cam installer.

Hey Gary, we are installing the cams into my car in 2 weeks time, could you quickly describe what "shimming the standard springs" is and does? I've never heard of this and was wondering wether we should be doing this with my standard springs.

Thanks man.

Hey Nat,

Cams and hiflow are a great idea. You should see some great response with a good setup + tune. I don't think you need to worry about porting the head. The NEO head will flow good for the boost a hiflow will provide. You said you're after boost response- porting will reduce inlet compression a little, hurting most at low rpm/BOOST. I reckon response will be better without porting. You prob won't remove the head anyway, so it'll be cheaper and you can put the money into top notch injectors/pump/cams etc.

GL dude, if you get bored at the workshop get the boys to keep you company :P

Edited by R338OY

Poncams are good.I have them in my car.You will notice the difference more at off boost driving.Not as much throttle needed to get up to say 60kmph.

NBP installed my boost controller ages ago.Both nice blokes up there.

Also with the cams and highflow setup,you will be able to carry the power all the way to redline(7500rpm in my case)

8000rpm in my new setup(Tomei valve springs)

defo go cams, but forget the porting and polishing as it is not needed.

"Needed"....such an interesting word. I agree with not "essential", but if you want better response and more power at lower boost then I say it is "needed".

I have a simple rule, if the head is off, port it. If the head doesn't need to come off, then don't take it off just to port it.

Cheers

Gary

Will do.. Cams sound like fun :P

While im here how much difference am I going to see with a good manifold? Obviously faster boost responce, abit louder I would assume but is $900 - $1500 worth it? I dont feel it is for that increase?

Edited by DECIM8
Will do.. Cams sound like fun :(

While im here how much difference am I going to see with a good manifold? Obviously faster boost responce, abit louder I would assume but is $900 - $1500 worth it? I dont feel it is for that increase?

Inlet manifold or exhaust manifold?

Cheers

Gary

Gary might have another opinion but from what i know the stock manifold isn't worth binning unless you want to go over 300rwkw. Going high mount turbo is another reason, but isn't needed with a hiflow.

Not worth it IMO.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • So, this shouldn't be such a mission, but there were a few tricks so I thought I'd post up a DIY for it. This was on a Q50 Red Sport but I doubt any other V37 model is very different (maybe just less steps for the intake heat exchanger hoses) I pulled the radiator out to flush it because the car was running hot at the track, but obviously the same steps apply for changing a radiator for any reason including an upgrade. If you are removing the radiator, you of course need to drain and refill, so have 5+ litres of blue coolant ready. You don't need to drain the intake heat exchanger to remove the radiator but depending on your plans you may need a couple of litres for that as well. You will also need something to deal with the auto transmission lines, I used 2x 8mm rubber caps on the radiator side, and a short length of 8mm pipe on the car side.....unless you can block these lines quickly you will loose AT fluid and it may be enough to hurt the transmission if you don't refill it. Other than that....lets go... "First, jack up your car". Yes really, and put it safely on stands. If you are not confident doing that you need to give this job to a mechanic
    • If the forester is anything like our old 2007 GTB Liberty, I could near on run ling Long's and "rate them", as no matter what, it just hung to the road, even when abusing it in a hard launch in the wet, or throwing it at corners.
    • LOL, all of the CAI like Craig I just need to put a hole saw through my bumper Done and dusted, the car runs, which is nice, I'll take it for a spin when the weather clears up Just need to put the bumper back on for good
    • Brooooo Please send ABS control unit schematic Please! R33 gts25t ABS (Its two plug ecu, black and white) wire colors possible? [email protected]
    • Don't even try to run it on the stock ECU if you're going to have the boost controller bring boost above ~10 psi. I've already told you that. If you use the Nistune ECU, you will need to CAREFULLY read the available documentation for Neo tuning, and read some threads on the Nistune forums, to discover the various things you have to do to prevent the ECU from going bananas when the boost is too high. The is a table associated with th boost sensor that must be modified to prevent it from shitting the bed. This is just one of the things that you will need to do to the tune in Nistune, because the Neo turbo ECU will be expecting to see a number of things (such as the TCS) that are not there, and you have to block the DTCs on those. It is totally not surprising to me that you are having the problems that you are, but the solutions to these problems have been known for >15 years. So just get it done.
×
×
  • Create New...