Jump to content
SAU Community

Installing Apexi Power Fc D-jetro- Drilling Holes Into Intake Manifold?

drifter 33

By drifter 33,
in Engines & Forced Induction

 Share

Recommended Posts

drifter 33 Proficient

drifter 33

Posted
Posted

hey guys

im about to install my Apexi Power Fc D-jetro into my r33 gtr

so i need to know where to drill the holes for the vacum in my inlet manifold and how big to drill (what size drill bit)

where to run the harness and map sensors?

and what ever else i would need to know

i did try searching but didnt have any luck

thankyou kindly

Duncan Grand Master

Duncan

Posted
Posted

I've never installed one of these myself - but why can't you just use one of the existing vacuum lines? there is one at the rear of the inlet manifold (after the throttles), one at the rear of the plenum (before the throttles) and the line to the BOV or FPR.

Adriano Grand Master

Adriano

Posted
Posted

YOu drill into runner three and four into the section betweem the head and the throttles. I used 1/8 bsp fittings which require a 8.8mm drill bit, and a tap. To do it properly is a full days job, removing the plenum & throttles etc. Just make sure you get some gaskets, and dont clean the throttles.

SXR Rising Star

SXR

Posted
Posted
dont know but when you find the answer please let me know, ill add to the pfc faq

I noticed by fitting it the right way I had much better tune. Lot smoother, better response, better economy, and lot less time in tuning.

By teeing it off the fpr and factory boost gauge line took so much time in tuning and still doesnt go as good as the other.

RPMGTR Community Regular

RPMGTR

Posted
Posted
I noticed by fitting it the right way I had much better tune. Lot smoother, better response, better economy, and lot less time in tuning.

By teeing it off the fpr and factory boost gauge line took so much time in tuning and still doesnt go as good as the other.

Have to agree....the added air volume of the vac rail must dampen the signal or something. Its worth the effort to tap the runners.

GeeTR Grand Master

GeeTR

Posted
Posted

Duncan musta been tired :3some:

Running a motor off a MAP sender straight up, is a feat in its own.

Your using a pressure sensing device in the manifold to assist the ECU, in guessing what mass of air is being ingested. Comparing that to a one of these "AFM" contraptions, that spits out a voltage, fairly relative to the direct mass thats going through it?... The ECU's job with a MAP sender as main load deriver is much harder.

Single throttle blades make it so much easier. Theres a 10L+ plenum that blends and muddy's up inlet pulses, making life so much easier for a MAP ECU (baring in mind, in this instance AFM's are better for ridiculous cams)

.. On the other hand, you have a 6 throttle blade RB26 setup, where you need to take a air sample from between the throttle body and inlet valve (wot? 3 inches max) on EACH cylinder... then combine that into ONE accumulated pressure zone to stick the MAP sender in...

Getting to the point :) The two MAP senders with the D-Jetro, i would have thought, need to be spaced geometrically equal along the length of the .. (collection tube, i think Nissan call it) in an attempt to gain a true manifold pressure reading, as per Adrian's post.

Important maybe, is that i myself have never personally owned and tuned a MAP referenced car. These thoughts are purely from my peers experiences and my deductions; debunk away.

Beer Baron Grand Master

Beer Baron

Posted
Posted

There is a diagram in the D-Jetro manual that shows where and how to do them. but as stated above, it's runners 3 and 4 post throttle. I have the manual somewhere, but god knows where. maybe someone else with one can scan that for your page Paul?

STATUS Grand Master

STATUS

Posted
Posted
Have to agree....the added air volume of the vac rail must dampen the signal or something. Its worth the effort to tap the runners.

haha yeah, i went the lazy route first then after a few drives and pulls was not happy with the way it traced throught the map.... re did it the correct way and the result was 1000% better.

Take it from ben and myself that if you are going to the effort of a D-JETRO then do it right, the system STR8E180 has posted pics of works poorly.

260tech Proficient

260tech

Posted
Posted
haha yeah, i went the lazy route first then after a few drives and pulls was not happy with the way it traced throught the map.... re did it the correct way and the result was 1000% better.

Tae it from ben and myself that if you are going to the effort of a D-JETRO then do it right, the system STR8E180 has posted pics of works poorly.

Gold.

:P

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Duncan
      R33 GTR running -9 with no tune

      By Duncan · Posted

      Sounds like you've got an interesting adventure ahead here with local support if you have trouble! My guess is that, unboosted, you will be OK with a small upgrade like -9. What will happen is that once the stock ECU sees more airflow than it expects it will add a heap of fuel and pull a heap of timing to be safe because it can't understand how it could get that much air without there being an issue. You will see clouds of black smoke and it won't pull hard through the midrange and top end. So, overall it will be a bit frustrating but should be OK. If you are still nervous set the base timing back 2o through the CAS, but it will be even more sluggish everywhere. As said above through...this is not my guarantee your engine won't be blown into a million pieces, leaving you looking for very hard to find parts A better idea is get a computer with logging ASAP, wire in a wide band O2 sensor and a use remote tuner. I've done multiple cars this way and while it is not as good as a specific tune on a dyno they can get it 90% right. I'd suggest if you can afford an R33 GTR these days you can afford an ECU and tune. And if you can't afford that you sure won't be able to afford the rebuild if it goes bad in the meantime,.  
    • Duncan
      New kid on the block

      By Duncan · Posted

      Yeah it would be nice if someone took the time to put that sort of information together, but there are a lot of variations in looms. I think you are making this way hard for yourself if you just want to get it running....sourcing an SR20 with the right wiring will be a billion times easier than matching the RB loom to an S15 chassis. If you do end up going this way, you just need to trace every wire in the loom with a multimeter, 95% of them will go to a location you can confirm at the ECU.....and then post it up for the next person who needs it  
    • Duncan
      Coolant leak?

      By Duncan · Posted

      Just top it up with water, and keep a general idea of how much you added. It is normal for water to be pushed into and pulled out of the reservoir through the cap, and it should not be more than half full or it will be likely to overflow when hot. Any decent mechanic can do a pressure test of the cooling system to confirm if you have a leak. Keep in mind if it is only leaking a little and when hot it may well evaporate before you see it hit the ground
    • GTSBoy
      Coolant leak?

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      I'd ask the shop what they used and use that. Mixing coolants is sometimes OK, sometimes not, and you have know the details of each coolant to know whether it's a good idea or not.
    • Chupapy
      Coolant leak?

      By Chupapy · Posted

      Is it alright to top up with just another green coolant?
×
×
  • Create New...