Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi all

friends i have bad problem naw my rb25det build boost in nutral gear with stoped car

i heard that RICH & RETARD so i changed AIRflow METER 4 times and the mechanic changed the cas

3 times but still same thing can you help me pleas my car stoped i can`t drive it :)

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/216461-rr-problem-without-solution/
Share on other sites

Hi all

friends i have bad problem naw my rb25det build boost in nutral gear with stoped car

i heard that RICH & RETARD so i changed AIRflow METER 4 times and the mechanic changed the cas

3 times but still same thing can you help me pleas my car stoped i can`t drive it :)

its also hisitating when driving

Hi dears

i did all this staff till now and about diagnostics i dont have tool

i changed maf 4 times all same result

i changed cas 3 times all same result

i tryed it without intercooler like direct its littel bit ok but small stuk from 5.5k to 6.5k rpm

and today we will try another turbocharger because some garage said if its littil crap will do same problem

so guys if some one have same this damin problem give us some help :thumbsup:

finally i am thinking that could be ignetion coils !!!!! :(

what mods are u running?

crook w/g actuator?

have u done a diagnostic? try resetting the ecu properly(shorting the 2 pins in the plug method)

dear am using stock turbo with stock wastegate but before i changed it i hade rb20det w/g

to gaine 10 psi

this thing start when i put new greedy front intercooler

I think your timing is off, is it being correctly adjusted AFTER you've been changing over the CAS sensors?

There isnt many things that will cause boost buildup in neutral and timing is the big one

Or the gauge could be faulty, put a decent one on there or are you using the stocker? (dont trust the stock one)

UltimateGTR - nothing to do with actutors etc... its not under load in idle plus the gate is closed on idle normally anyhow, so its gotta be fuel related, ie before turbo

I think your timing is off, is it being correctly adjusted AFTER you've been changing over the CAS sensors?

There isnt many things that will cause boost buildup in neutral and timing is the big one

Or the gauge could be faulty, put a decent one on there or are you using the stocker? (dont trust the stock one)

UltimateGTR - nothing to do with actutors etc... its not under load in idle plus the gate is closed on idle normally anyhow, so its gotta be fuel related, ie before turbo

no man when we changed the cas we adjust the timing by timing light

even i changed ecu with good one also i changed the coils all do same problem

but when we retaind factory intake manifold problem hapen in 5.5 to 6k

but really how could boost come up like antilage in nutral :banana:

i belive its ignition but where i don`t know

  • 2 weeks later...
When the timing is set, is the cas near the centre? Your harmonic balancer may have slipped, and your setting the timing very retarded.

yes brother its in center and with timing gun i got like 12 - 13 degres

all my mods now 3 inch exhust and pod filter with greddy intercooler front mont

and gtr fuel pump also i changed the plugs

yestarday we changed the three wires all long from MAF to ecu and the car runs good

but still i have loosing power in 3rd 4rth gear :P

by the way i am going to buy power fc ecu do you agrre with me ? that it will help me too much

and thanks all for help

What you mean the problem happened @ 5500rpm/6000rpm with the factory plenum?

What other parts are changed?

Full listing please

its noticable loss of power that somthing hold your car moments

and my mods are 3 exhust pod filter intercooler gtr fuel pump thats all now

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I know why it happened and I’m embarrassed to say but I was testing the polarity of one of the led bulb to see which side was positive with a 12v battery and that’s when it decided to fry hoping I didn’t damage anything else
    • I came here to note that is a zener diode too base on the info there. Based on that, I'd also be suspicious that replacing it, and it's likely to do the same. A lot of use cases will see it used as either voltage protection, or to create a cheap but relatively stable fixed voltage supply. That would mean it has seen more voltage than it should, and has gone into voltage melt down. If there is something else in the circuit dumping out higher than it should voltages, that needs to be found too. It's quite likely they're trying to use the Zener to limit the voltage that is hitting through to the transistor beside it, so what ever goes to the zener is likely a signal, and they're using the transistor in that circuit to amplify it. Especially as it seems they've also got a capacitor across the zener. Looks like there is meant to be something "noisy" to that zener, and what ever it was, had a melt down. Looking at that picture, it also looks like there's some solder joints that really need redoing, and it might be worth having the whole board properly inspected.  Unfortunately, without being able to stick a multimeter on it, and start tracing it all out, I'm pretty much at a loss now to help. I don't even believe I have a climate control board from an R33 around here to pull apart and see if any of the circuit appears similar to give some ideas.
    • Nah - but you won't find anything on dismantling the seats in any such thing anyway.
    • Could be. Could also be that they sit around broken more. To be fair, you almost never see one driving around. I see more R chassis GTRs than the Renault ones.
    • Yeah. Nah. This is why I said My bold for my double emphasis. We're not talking about cars tuned to the edge of det here. We're talking about normal cars. Flame propagation speed and the amount of energy required to ignite the fuel are not significant factors when running at 1500-4000 rpm, and medium to light loads, like nearly every car on the road (except twin cab utes which are driven at 6k and 100% load all the time). There is no shortage of ignition energy available in any petrol engine. If there was, we'd all be in deep shit. The calorific value, on a volume basis, is significantly different, between 98 and 91, and that turns up immediately in consumption numbers. You can see the signal easily if you control for the other variables well enough, and/or collect enough stats. As to not seeing any benefit - we had a couple of EF and EL Falcons in the company fleet back in the late 90s and early 2000s. The EEC IV ECU in those things was particularly good at adding in timing as soon as knock headroom improved, which typically came from putting in some 95 or 98. The responsiveness and power improved noticeably, and the fuel consumption dropped considerably, just from going to 95. Less delta from there to 98 - almost not noticeable, compared to the big differences seen between 91 and 95. Way back in the day, when supermarkets first started selling fuel from their own stations, I did thousands of km in FNQ in a small Toyota. I can't remember if it was a Starlet or an early Yaris. Anyway - the supermarket servos were bringing in cheap fuel from Indonesia, and the other servos were still using locally refined gear. The fuel consumption was typically at least 5%, often as much as 8% worse on the Indo shit, presumably because they had a lot more oxygenated component in the brew, and were probably barely meeting the octane spec. Around the same time or maybe a bit later (like 25 years ago), I could tell the difference between Shell 98 and BP 98, and typically preferred to only use Shell then because the Skyline ran so much better on it. Years later I found the realtionship between them had swapped, as a consequence of yet more refinery closures. So I've only used BP 98 since. Although, I must say that I could not fault the odd tank of United 98 that I've run. It's probably the same stuff. It is also very important to remember that these findings are often dependent on region. With most of the refineries in Oz now dead, there's less variability in local stuff, and he majority of our fuels are not even refined here any more anyway. It probably depends more on which SE Asian refinery is currently cheapest to operate.
×
×
  • Create New...