Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

normally carry some changeovers in stock, but just waiting on new batch, should be here any day. Can also modify your actual ecu if preferred but takes a few days as I don''t have the smd work station yet. Normally looking around 2-3 hours drive in drive out for thorough tune with basic mods, obviously cam timing etc can take longer...

  • 1 month later...

Sorry to bring up and old thread, but I was wondering if you are putting a z32 ecu into an rb25 and u get the 16 bit version you need a daughterboard that I know and then would u need two chips in order to run the tune? Cause thats what I have to do caus eI got the z32 ecu that is 16 bit so they told me I need two chips in oder to run it.

You should be able to use a 16 bit Z32 daughterboard to run an RB25 still since the ECU pinouts are the same, Nissan upgraded to a different processor (probably because of the Motorola/Hitachi lawsuit stopped them using the HD6303 MCU midway through production of Z32)

I would lean towards the 8 bit Z32 because more VVT control parameters have been defined if you wish to tune those. However I went through the 16 bit Z32 ROM last month and identified some more parameters to adjust since a few owners run nistune with these

hey im in the middle of doing the rb20 ecu with a rb25 tune chip on a rb25 but ive connected the computer and the car runs fine but no tacho just wondering if you need to change the tacho wiring on the ecu from pin 7 to pin 5 to suit the rb20 ecu

  • 5 months later...
Maybe not that cheap @ approx $2000. :laugh:

should be half that, as of late have been doing the Z32 remps for $800 drive in drive out if you supply the z32 ecu ( or $950 if i supply it, as they are $150 at any wreckers)

there quite a bit of mis-information about exactly what needs dong but it is actually very simple and only requires simple pin swaps and the addition of a 02 sensor wire.

Edited by URAS
should be half that, as of late have been doing the Z32 remps for $800 drive in drive out if you supply the z32 ecu ( or $950 if i supply it, as they are $150 at any wreckers)

there quite a bit of mis-information about exactly what needs dong but it is actually very simple and only requires simple pin swaps and the addition of a 02 sensor wire.

IIRC I was thinking that that the 2K would include wideband etc etc.

Sure only requires a few pin swaps easy as.

EXCEPT the fuel temp sensor which needs a resistor wired to chassis ground. If this isn't done you get rich idle afr's and code 42.

Oh and cut wire at pin 33 or your exhaust temp light will come on with your air con.

Cheers.

Guys I'm a little lost here , are you saying that a modded R33 GTS25T computer can be made programmable and tuned via the Consult port just like any after market computer ?

I was under the impression that ROM chips had to be burnt and erased and reburnt time after time .

If all is now good is the software available for anyone to use ?

Cheers A .

Guys I'm a little lost here , are you saying that a modded R33 GTS25T computer can be made programmable and tuned via the Consult port just like any after market computer ?

I was under the impression that ROM chips had to be burnt and erased and reburnt time after time .

If all is now good is the software available for anyone to use ?

Cheers A .

Sure there are daughterboards out there that allow you to use nistune boards in the r33 ecu it's just that they're a liitle exy.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • The HG high flow is excellent, and costs about the $$ you're talking about. But it, and probably every other highflow, uses a diffeent core than the original turo, and the original Hitatchi core is quite long. So, I think it is inevitable that there is likely no such thing as a highflow that just "bolts on" with no other effort required. And the same is likely true for HG's outright replacement "bolt on" turbos (the ATR things). And the same is likely true for anything similar from elsewhere. I have no idea if the cheap Chinese/Taiwanese complete turbos from eBay/Temu/etc are as bolt on as they claim. I mean, they claim the bolt onto the NAs as well as the turbos, and we know that can't be "bolt on". But it wouldn't matter because I'm not buying a $169 4 psi turbo for anything other than a paddock basher.
    • Bummer...yeah i "need" something to "ease" up the work and for my driving it would be enough.    Iam counting the tune "without" turbo. I do not mean "cheap" like something from Temu around 200 USD, "Cheap" is something around 1000 USD? 
    • Starter motors used to use the weight of metal (magnets) to provide torque. Now they use (more) current instead. This. It's completely normal.
    • So thing that had me stumped, but I think is OK....is that when it was up in the air, in neutral I had it running to bleed to coolant while I put the wheels back on. I noticed the rears were turning (slowly) which I'd never seen before 20250928_163512.mp4     Because there had been an issue with clutch slip due to pedal adjustment on the dyno, I assumed there was still and issue so spent some quality time upside down under the dash adjusting the pedal....but no matter what I did the wheels still turned in neutral. Even disconnected the master cylinder to pedal rod and same. In despair, I even removed the clutch slave so there was no chance of any preload causing it.....still happened. So either: 1. Something is not right in the bellhousing, or 2. Its a thing sometimes with cold, thick gearbox oil Internet says it might be 2, I hope so!
    • OK, few more things sorted and it is ready for a shakedown on 10-Oct, with one weird thing. Changed the run in oil and filter for the good stuff. 8l came out, about 8.5 went in with filter so that looks all good. Changed the starter (again), this time for a brand new one, works good. Interesting that the Taaaarks one is shorter than factory but spins harder, I guess electronics have moved on a little in the last 30 years. Will be nice to have a bit of extra space under there. Put the timing cover back on, and noted where the cam gears were set as a record.  Will need to double check the timing but it is pretty close. Also put the coil pack cover and intake snorkel back on. Exhaust Inlet Changed the water out for coolant, bled up nicely. Removed the rear brake pads (well worn factory sumitomo ones!), gave the hardware a good clean and reassembled. I've put bendix XP on the back again because the price is excellent at $150 a set and they worked well on the V37. Front pads have plenty so no issue there
×
×
  • Create New...