Jump to content
SAU Community

Is This Common?

Legumis

By Legumis,
in Engines & Forced Induction

 Share

Recommended Posts

Legumis Contributor

Legumis

Posted
Posted

Just had my exhaust completed by adding 3" dump and front pipes to the existing 3" hi-flow cat and 3" cat-back system.

Problem now is that the acceleration *feels* lazy, especially 2nd gear. Even the dodgy stock boost gauge is peaking a bit lower than what it was. Granted, I haven't got any actual data to show for a loss in power, but its a feeling that I'm getting which is enough for me. :D

Its not a flat-patch at a certain rev-range, it simply feels that the car is slower all the way through.

Anyone else had this sort of experience?

On the plus side, I can hear the turbo spooling up more now, which I like but that doesn't make up for when I'm getting smaller in someone else's rear-view mirror.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/217298-is-this-common/
Share on other sites
Legumis Contributor

Legumis

Posted
  • Author
Posted

I don't have a boost controller so I can only assume I'm running stock boost. That being said, the stock gauge reckons its running at about 9psi (needle *was* right on that middle mark between 0 and +7, now its just under it).

I wondered if the ECU wasn't used to the breathing space but I haven't done anything about that (no piggybacker or reset or anything logical) and I'm pretty certain the O2 sensor is ok. It will be old, but ok and I'm basing that on the fact that the car was doing well before the new pipes were put it. Although, I'm now wondering if the mechanic perhaps had a go at cleaning the o2 sensor. Would that have an affect on the ECU at first, particularly if it was really grubby before?

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/217298-is-this-common/#findComment-3836673
Share on other sites
Turbo Dave Collaborator

Turbo Dave

Posted
Posted

I put FMIC, Pod, Full exhaust and my car went worse than before the mods. once I got my turbo Hiflowed and tuned to suit all the mods...Its a Rocket.

Stock ECU is good for the STOCK setup once you change something the tune needs to change with it. do all the mods you wanna do then get a ECU of somesort either stand alone or piggyback and get it tuned properly.

My car has gone from using 13.5 Litres per 100 to 8.8 Lph, not to mention bucket loads more power on the loud pedal.

and still makes full boost by 3000rpm.

Dave

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/217298-is-this-common/#findComment-3836741
Share on other sites
Legumis Contributor

Legumis

Posted
  • Author
Posted

I was hoping to get an ECU remap with Dr Drift once I got my boost controller and FMIC installed. Unfortunately I probably won't be able to get the FMIC put in for a while.

What would people recommend so far as an interim tuning goes? Is it worth it, or even possible (without any PFC/SAFC etc), to get some sort of tuning done prior to the FMIC?

Maybe I should resolve myself to biting either one of those bullets: "zero-power" or "empty-wallet" until a proper ECU solution is found.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/217298-is-this-common/#findComment-3836855
Share on other sites
OZ_Pomy Rising Star

OZ_Pomy

Posted
Posted

If the computer is the problem why dont you just put the stock dump/front pipe back on then save for the computer then get it all done. Have you checked to make sure it was all installed properly? or did u tell your mechanic the situation?

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/217298-is-this-common/#findComment-3837129
Share on other sites
R31Nismoid Grand Master

R31Nismoid

Posted
Posted

Yeah as others have said.

I'd get it on a dyno.

Check the AFR's, fuel pressure, boost pressure and other basic things while there and get an idea of where the car it at.

Then workout what area it is thats needing the attention

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/217298-is-this-common/#findComment-3838232
Share on other sites
  • 2 weeks later...
10MinuteCar Collaborator

10MinuteCar

Posted
Posted (edited)

what? thats impossible, then why go for an extra dump pipe if you ain't going to tune your car?

What you guys are saying goes against the theory a turbo back gives more power than a cat back (with no tune).

Does this power loss theory with an extra dump pipe also apply to GTT R34's??????????????????

Edited by 10MinuteCar
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/217298-is-this-common/#findComment-3866199
Share on other sites
Adriano Grand Master

Adriano

Posted
Posted

Does this power loss theory with an extra dump pipe also apply to GTT R34's??????????????????

Its even worse on a 34gtt, i dynod one stock, then he came back with a full turbo back 3.5in, and front mount. It gained 5rwkw up top and lost about 30rwkw everywhere else. Put a pfc on it and got it all back and heaps more.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/217298-is-this-common/#findComment-3866266
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Latest Posts

    • GTSBoy
      What brakes on R34 GTT(Europe)

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      The 296mm rotors are the R33 turbo brakes. The 310mm rotors are the R34 turbo brakes. The calipers are nearly the same, but not. They're the same caliper but the R34 caliper has longer legs so that it sits out far enough to go over the rotor. The pads are the same for both. When you say, "I bough tsome EBC"....did you just mean pads? Or rotors? 310mm rotors fit under 17" wheels. There may be some wheels without enough clearance though. I can't fit my fingers between the barrel of my wheel and the "corners" of my R34 calipers, but there is plenty of room behind the spokes. This is on Enkei RPF1. You can fit 324mm rotors inside a 17" wheel, but I'd be willing to bet that it would be close to impossible with the Nissan/Sumitomo caliper (using an adapter, of course), because the Sumitomo caliper is fatter than the Brembo caliper that is supposed to go on the 324mm rotors.
    • Kapr
      What brakes on R34 GTT(Europe)

      By Kapr · Posted

      Hi. Can someone tell me what brakes(and mainly WHERE) can i buy brakes on R34 GTT? I bought some EBC which SHOULD go on my car(i have GT but it has GTT brakes) but it does not fit, Brakes are "too" small(296mm) Are 310mm be good or? I have 17 inch wheel so no "big boys" but for me driving i just need one that fits and i can get here in EU/Czech.
    • Marek
      Hi everyone.

      By Marek · Posted

      Since winter isn't that harsh anymore in Poland, i will definetely drive it 365 days a year 😉. But if the snow hits i will try it for sure and let U know. Only swap i am planning to do is of course R34 GTR front 😍.
    • Marek
      WGNC34 - floor mats

      By Marek · Posted

      Hey. Very valuable information about pitwork, I will pay attention when buying any consumable parts 🙏 As for the carpets - I got a handful of information from nengun, from which it appears that indeed the carpets for the driver's side are OEM. They are not able to show me any pictures due to the long chain of different sales entities but after I place the order, as soon as the goods arrive at the nengun warehouse from which they will send the shipment to me they can send me photos and if my purchase differs from OEM I can immediately return it / cancel the purchase. I think I will give it a try 😉. Of course i'll let you know what's what as soon as i get them P.s. I know the topic is not relevant to the thread, but both nengun and amayama have these SICK 😍 trunk room lamps available. Do you know anyone who ordered them? I need to have one in my car
    • ARB26
      S1 Autech 260RS Wiring Diagrams

      By ARB26 · Posted

      I've managed to find this: Nissan_Stagea_AutechVersion260RS (1).pdf
×
×
  • Create New...