Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Ok guys,

I recently purchased a HID kit off of Slide.

Its a 10,000K 55w kit and im very impressed. Throws a nice light and it isnt too blue.

Heres the pics and a bit of a run through of my install :D

heres where I mounted the passenger side unit. I used one of the many threaded holes that were already present (probably from the airbox)

and simply used a tek screw for the other hole. Remove the airbox if you have one.

post-13424-1209970351_thumb.jpg

You can see in this photo, that the rubber grommet assembly that came in my set had the wires for powering the unit running through it. I decided I would cut these off because it would have been a little messy to fit the new grommet and the old into the one fitting (if you dont understand hang in there, the next few pics may help).

post-13424-1209970568_thumb.jpg

Heres what your car has (sorry about the blur)

post-13424-1209970393_thumb.jpg

Heres the cap for your headlight. The small hole is where the original lamp power cables run. I drilled mine out with a 25mm holesaw so the new rubber seal would sit nicely.

post-13424-1209970808_thumb.jpg

Heres what it looked like after drilling. The hole is offset a little to make sure it drilled over the older smaller hole.

post-13424-1209971002_thumb.jpg

I stripped back the power cable that I had cut loose from the rubber grommet on the light assembly and added some lugs. This was done to the original lamp power cables also. On the original cables, my green wire was positive (the one that originally connected directly on the back of the lamp). Take care with your polaritys. I managed to accidently put the power plug in the unit upside down originally. I Didnt hurt it, but there was alot of confusion when it would work.

post-13424-1209971131_thumb.jpg

This is what my wiring looked like (note, you can see the power cables I had cut running through the new grommet. It is cut flush on the inside and out, I left the cores there as a sort of plug :down:.

post-13424-1209971241_thumb.jpg

A little pre- tidy up photo of the wiring.

post-13424-1209971411_thumb.jpg

Heres a photo of where I mounted the electronic starter on the drivers side. Washer bottle is removed for ease of install.

post-13424-1209971486_thumb.jpg

Heres some photos I have of the lights turned on. This is the original bulb I had (clear blue phillips type)

post-13424-1209971733_thumb.jpg

10,000K light. Note the colour of the parkers, which are the same coulour as my original halogen lights.

post-13424-1209971777_thumb.jpg

post-13424-1209971910_thumb.jpg

post-13424-1209971947_thumb.jpg

Thats it guys. So far im very impressed. The light is great and the original reflectors throw the light out pretty nicely.

Sorry about the blur. The pics were a last minute idea taken with my phone.

Any questions feel free to ask :P

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/217819-hid-light-installation-r33/
Share on other sites

They are very white for 10,000k.

Its hard to compare different kelvin ratings as some 8000k kits are very blue and some 10,000k kits look the same as some 6,000k kits out there.

A quick search on google you will be able to compare different branded kits and you will see there is a big difference in the colour, of the same kelvin rating.

I think ill get the 6,000k off Slide. Nice tutorial BTW but i dont think cutting the wires was needed.I have installed a few kits with no cutting what so ever.

They are very white for 10,000k.

Its hard to compare different kelvin ratings as some 8000k kits are very blue and some 10,000k kits look the same as some 6,000k kits out there.

A quick search on google you will be able to compare different branded kits and you will see there is a big difference in the colour, of the same kelvin rating.

I think ill get the 6,000k off Slide. Nice tutorial BTW but i dont think cutting the wires was needed.I have installed a few kits with no cutting what so ever.

hmm. It will be interesting to see how you do it without cutting the wires. I had quite a think about it and though that taking the chop was the neatest option.

Thanks for the feedback.

im about to install a set of these but in the instructions for the ones i got it mentions running a wire from the battery in the boot (+) to the "generator" located in the fuse box, and the use of a polarity ajustor provided with the kit, ne ideas??? i have no clue, i hope all i have to do is that^^

Shouldnt have to.

Should be able run run the positive off the ballast to the globe then the negative off the headlight assemble to the ballast.

Easy! All this stuff about running more wires and cutting and so forth should not be needed.Unless you have a cheaper quality HID kit?

it should also be noted since this is a tutorial that this modification is illegal and cannot be engineerd legal. also R33 projectors will work very poorly with HIDs as evidenced in your 2 last pics. poor cut off, big hot spots and some nice glare. they will be very annoying to all other road users and provide you with quite poor light.

it should also be noted since this is a tutorial that this modification is illegal and cannot be engineerd legal. also R33 projectors will work very poorly with HIDs as evidenced in your 2 last pics. poor cut off, big hot spots and some nice glare. they will be very annoying to all other road users and provide you with quite poor light.

Sorry to nit pick but its reflectors :P

well i put my set on y'day and u were rite,no wiring needed at all, didnt even have to change a fuse, totally plug and play and the globes i have are 6500k and are nuts,so white and bright, not poor light at all and i dont think its too blinding at all. i got my kit for $150! and am told there 100% legal?????!!

  • 1 month later...

yeah i put in a set of 8000k HID xenons few months ago and let me tell you ive never even used my high beams since, these things are that bright its not funny, its like double high beam power but pure white light.. best upgrade ive ever done.

note

i never put a sliding kit in and mine are only 35w and from ling long land off ebay so yeh

ill get some pics up when i find mine

post-29137-1213437345_thumb.jpg

Edited by l0WRB

I love my hids.. Got BELLOFs (jap brand) - very expensive and totally love it.. have had in my car for 2 months now i think and never had a problem.. no ones flashed me yet etc etc.. driven past cops, people, cars, dogs, cats etc.. lol.. even had a cop on the other side of the intersection.. Got a friend to drive in front me and he said its fine.. no glare etc.. So im happy!!

^ heheh yup havnt used my hi-beams since!!

Actually mine is much brighter than the hi-beams..

Edited by siddr20
it should also be noted since this is a tutorial that this modification is illegal and cannot be engineerd legal. also R33 projectors will work very poorly with HIDs as evidenced in your 2 last pics. poor cut off, big hot spots and some nice glare. they will be very annoying to all other road users and provide you with quite poor light.

Hmm. Those pics are pre-adjustment and the lights are shinning on the hill. After I adjusted them up a little, theres no doubt in my mind they give off better light. Haven't used my high beam since installing them and as yet have not been flashed by anyone. Even though I think they would be slightly brighter to oncoming traffic, I dont believe they are too bright at where I have them.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Look, realistically, those are some fairly chunky connectors and wires so it is a reasonably fair bet that that loom was involved in the redirection of the fuel pump and/or ECU/ignition power for the immobiliser. It's also fair to be that the new immobiliser is essentially the same thing as the old one, and so it probably needs the same stuff done to make it do what it has to do. Given that you are talking about a car that no-one else here is familiar with (I mean your exact car) and an alarm that I've never heard of before and so probably not many others are familiar with, and that some wire monkey has been messing with it out of our sight, it seems reasonable that the wire monkey should be fixing this.
    • Wheel alignment immediately. Not "when I get around to it". And further to what Duncan said - you cannot just put camber arms on and shorten them. You will introduce bump steer far in excess of what the car had with stock arms. You need adjustable tension arms and they need to be shortened also. The simplest approach is to shorten them the same % as the stock ones. This will not be correct or optimal, but it will be better than any other guess. The correct way to set the lengths of both arms is to use a properly built/set up bump steer gauge and trial and error the adjustments until you hit the camber you need and want and have minimum bump steer in the range of motion that the wheel is expected to travel. And what Duncan said about toe is also very true. And you cannot change the camber arm without also affecting toe. So when you have adjustable arms on the back of a Skyline, the car either needs to go to a talented wheel aligner (not your local tyre shop dropout), or you need to be able to do this stuff yourself at home. Guess which approach I have taken? I have built my own gear for camber, toe and bump steer measurement and I do all this on the flattest bit of concrete I have, with some shims under the tyres on one side to level the car.
    • Thought I would get some advice from others on this situation.    Relevant info: R33 GTS25t Link G4x ECU Walbro 255LPH w/ OEM FP Relay (No relay mod) Scenario: I accidentally messed up my old AVS S5 (rev.1) at the start of the year and the cars been immobilised. Also the siren BBU has completely failed; so I decided to upgrade it.  I got a newer AVS S5 (rev.2?) installed on Friday. The guy removed the old one and its immobilisers. Tried to start it; the car cranks but doesnt start.  The new one was installed and all the alarm functions seem to be working as they should; still wouldn't start Went to bed; got up on Friday morning and decided to have a look into the no start problem. Found the car completely dead.  Charged the battery; plugged it back in and found the brake lights were stuck on.  Unplugging the brake pedal switch the lights turn off. Plug it back in and theyre stuck on again. I tested the switch (continuity test and resistance); all looks good (0-1kohm).  On talking to AVS; found its because of the rubber stopper on the brake pedal; sure enough the middle of it is missing so have ordered a new one. One of those wear items; which was confusing what was going on However when I try unplugging the STOP Light fuses (under the dash and under the hood) the brake light still stays on. Should those fuses not cut the brake light circuit?  I then checked the ECU; FP Speed Error.  Testing the pump again; I can hear the relay clicking every time I switch it to ON. I unplugged the pump and put the multimeter across the plug. No continuity; im seeing 0.6V (ECU signal?) and when it switches the relay I think its like 20mA or 200mA). Not seeing 12.4V / 7-9A. As far as I know; the Fuel Pump was wired through one of the immobiliser relays on the old alarm.  He pulled some thick gauged harness out with the old alarm wiring; which looks to me like it was to bridge connections into the immobilisers? Before it got immobilised it was running just fine.  Im at a loss to why the FP is getting no voltage; I thought maybe the FP was faulty (even though I havent even done 50km on the new pump) but no voltage at the harness plug.  Questions: Could it be he didnt reconnect the fuel pump when testing it after the old alarm removal (before installing the new alarm)?  Is this a case of bridging to the brake lights instead of the fuel pump circuit? It's a bit beyond me as I dont do a lot with electrical; so have tried my best to diagnose what I think seems to make sense.  Seeking advice if theres for sure an issue with the alarm install to get him back here; or if I do infact, need an auto electrician to diagnose it. 
    • Then, shorten them by 1cm, drop the car back down and have a visual look (or even better, use a spirit level across the wheel to see if you have less camber than before. You still want something like 1.5 for road use. Alternatively, if you have adjustable rear ride height (I assume you do if you have extreme camber wear), raise the suspension back to standard height until you can get it all aligned properly. Finally, keep in mind that wear on the inside of the tyre can be for incorrect toe, not just camber
    • I know I have to get a wheel alignment but until then I just need to bring the rear tyres in a bit they're wearing to the belt on the inside and brand new on the outside edge. I did shorten the arms a bit but got it wrong now after a few klms the Slip and VDC lights come on. I'd just like to get it to a point where I can drive for another week or two before getting an alignment. I've had to pay a lot of other stuff recently so doing it myself is my only option 
×
×
  • Create New...