Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

hey people i have been looking at the dump pipes and high flow cats on just jap forum,does anyone know what will go on my stag without mods(or very little) is it a r33 split dump??, only have the fmic and 3'' from cat cat back.

also the TURBO,will a t04e with external gate fit straight on? not goin for a huge power diff,just new turbo,what fits,looked around but there is no def answer.if i decide to keep car what stainless manifold would fit and different turbo,if i can find these out i might keep my car :dry:

if there is something to go straight on please let me know,or let me know what has to be done,thanks

Edited by stagpower
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/217967-just-jap-partsturbo/
Share on other sites

I got a bell mouth JJ dump,R33 I think and anX Force Hi Flow Cat, perfect fit with no mods.

All bolts and gaskets supplied.

sorry,so of the 3dumps they have advertised,which is it?? thanks for info

sorry,so of the 3dumps they have advertised,which is it?? thanks for info

Got links to these 3 dumps?

I've got a T3/T4 turbo I'm getting rid of. Bolts straight on, but is oil cooled only.

The split dump in the first link will not fit, it hits the floor due to being a straight run of pipe

The bell mouth in the second link, which is a direct copy or the same as a x-force pipe will fit

The x-force are $330-350, The JJR one is $199 and good value. Just hope they have sorted their flange to turbo warp problems out with these new pipes.

G`Day all having just read this i must add,I have fitted bellmouth dump pipe to my series 2 & would say that they DON`T fit we ended up cutting it throw the gut`s & rewelding it as it hit`s the body now some one will say who fitted it is hopeless well he work`s for a performance shop & build rollcage`s & fab`s lot`s of stuff for motorsport, zrost for lot`s of different car`s ,he said this is the best way to do it unless your be rooting around for age`s.IT has made a great difference to the car & would tell any one to get a 3in bellmouth dump,i drove to kalgoolie on saturday & back the same day,& found that fuel econemy is much better 10ltr per 100kms at 140 + most of the time so yes very pleased with my mod 3in till bend then 4in with rsr rear muffler,it has made a big difference to the way the car performes.hope this will help some of you .cheer`s chuckie.

Darrin,

As I have the JJ model, could you expand on your comments please.

When I went thru the dump pipe fitment drama's, search for old thread. the split dump that I bought was not well made, it was warped 3 different ways due to the flange materail being too thin, but was told they were working on fixing the problems.

When I went thru the dump pipe fitment drama's, search for old thread. the split dump that I bought was not well made, it was warped 3 different ways due to the flange materail being too thin, but was told they were working on fixing the problems.

Thanks Darrin, I'm fine then, mine is a singgle Bell Mouth. Incidently on the cruise last Sunday I was down to about 13l/100

That is 3l/100 less than before I fitted the dump and X Force.

I'm wondering about going 4" cat back without a resonator"?" and a bigish cannon. But it may be a bit noisy.

The R33GTST Group Buy split dump fitted perfectly on mine, which has a Magic cat and a modified Nismo R32GTR 3" exhaust. I ended up using that particular split dump on the R33GTST and the Stagea now has a Performance Metalcraft hand fabricated (work of art) split dump on it that was originally on the R32GTST.

More to the point;

also the TURBO,will a t04e with external gate fit straight on? not goin for a huge power diff,

A T04E, doesn't fit straight on, especially with an external wastegate. And if it did it would give you a huge power difference.

looked around but there is no def answer

Of course there is no definitive answer, everybody has different requirements and tastes. In my case doubling the standard power output at the wheels via a highly responsive GCG ball bearing high flowed RB20DET turbo was the perfect choice. In Brad's case, quadrupling the power output via a T04Z suited his requirements.

Take a proper look at what everybody is running and why they chose it and I bet you will find a combination that suites your requirements.

Cheers

Gary

Since fitting the new dump and cat we went on the Qld cruise and general running around including two trips up Henri Robert, a total of 510ks for 57.5 litres. Thats about 11.3L/100.

  • 4 weeks later...

ok although everyone has different turbo setups,could everyone/anyone post what turbo you have and if it bolted up directly,if so what dump pipe did you use etc,will be looking at turbo in next couple of weeks,with minor work needed,thanks everyone

GCG hiflow of standard turbo bolts straight on. (230-270rwkw)

HKS GT-RS bolts straight on. (230-270rwkw)

are the most likely bolt on turbo choices.

there are so many choices depending on your power target/requirements including HKS 2835 ProS or HKS 3037ProS kits but each increase in power level = more $$'s

a search of forced induction will show these threads come up a zillion times and the answers are pretty much always the same.

I use the 3" JJ bellmouth for my Series 1 Rsv4 1997 auto awd rb25det Stagea http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/JJ...RB-t204414.html

great value, and Ive heard the bellmouth flange weld has been fixed and is better (3yrs ago mine needed a $100 job to relweld up the flange properly)

fits no issue (apart what I had, above, almost 3years ago), is stainless steel and after 30-odd months looks new still.

fitted standard 3" R33 hi-flow cat converter, new oygen sensor, and the 3" cat back system I already had (cut off 3" Fujistubo muffler and welded on sraight thru kakimoto gtr muffler)

used stock turbo, now using stock highflowed Slide turbo

ppl in front and behind in yesterdays stagea cruise commented on the induction noise (k&n pod in Maxx r34 airbox with foam internal insulation, stock snorkel, bass junkey rad.air-guide, return feed apexi fmic)

I personally think its the steel wheels and massively ported front/rear stock housings :(:D

so besides those hks and other very expensive turbo's,there are no known others that are a direct fit?? why are brand new turbos so cheap on ebay?? and yes i know if i want a good one i should expect to pay good money but i am only after a new turbo rather than massive power,as long as its a little better than stock... :D

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I know why it happened and I’m embarrassed to say but I was testing the polarity of one of the led bulb to see which side was positive with a 12v battery and that’s when it decided to fry hoping I didn’t damage anything else
    • I came here to note that is a zener diode too base on the info there. Based on that, I'd also be suspicious that replacing it, and it's likely to do the same. A lot of use cases will see it used as either voltage protection, or to create a cheap but relatively stable fixed voltage supply. That would mean it has seen more voltage than it should, and has gone into voltage melt down. If there is something else in the circuit dumping out higher than it should voltages, that needs to be found too. It's quite likely they're trying to use the Zener to limit the voltage that is hitting through to the transistor beside it, so what ever goes to the zener is likely a signal, and they're using the transistor in that circuit to amplify it. Especially as it seems they've also got a capacitor across the zener. Looks like there is meant to be something "noisy" to that zener, and what ever it was, had a melt down. Looking at that picture, it also looks like there's some solder joints that really need redoing, and it might be worth having the whole board properly inspected.  Unfortunately, without being able to stick a multimeter on it, and start tracing it all out, I'm pretty much at a loss now to help. I don't even believe I have a climate control board from an R33 around here to pull apart and see if any of the circuit appears similar to give some ideas.
    • Nah - but you won't find anything on dismantling the seats in any such thing anyway.
    • Could be. Could also be that they sit around broken more. To be fair, you almost never see one driving around. I see more R chassis GTRs than the Renault ones.
    • Yeah. Nah. This is why I said My bold for my double emphasis. We're not talking about cars tuned to the edge of det here. We're talking about normal cars. Flame propagation speed and the amount of energy required to ignite the fuel are not significant factors when running at 1500-4000 rpm, and medium to light loads, like nearly every car on the road (except twin cab utes which are driven at 6k and 100% load all the time). There is no shortage of ignition energy available in any petrol engine. If there was, we'd all be in deep shit. The calorific value, on a volume basis, is significantly different, between 98 and 91, and that turns up immediately in consumption numbers. You can see the signal easily if you control for the other variables well enough, and/or collect enough stats. As to not seeing any benefit - we had a couple of EF and EL Falcons in the company fleet back in the late 90s and early 2000s. The EEC IV ECU in those things was particularly good at adding in timing as soon as knock headroom improved, which typically came from putting in some 95 or 98. The responsiveness and power improved noticeably, and the fuel consumption dropped considerably, just from going to 95. Less delta from there to 98 - almost not noticeable, compared to the big differences seen between 91 and 95. Way back in the day, when supermarkets first started selling fuel from their own stations, I did thousands of km in FNQ in a small Toyota. I can't remember if it was a Starlet or an early Yaris. Anyway - the supermarket servos were bringing in cheap fuel from Indonesia, and the other servos were still using locally refined gear. The fuel consumption was typically at least 5%, often as much as 8% worse on the Indo shit, presumably because they had a lot more oxygenated component in the brew, and were probably barely meeting the octane spec. Around the same time or maybe a bit later (like 25 years ago), I could tell the difference between Shell 98 and BP 98, and typically preferred to only use Shell then because the Skyline ran so much better on it. Years later I found the realtionship between them had swapped, as a consequence of yet more refinery closures. So I've only used BP 98 since. Although, I must say that I could not fault the odd tank of United 98 that I've run. It's probably the same stuff. It is also very important to remember that these findings are often dependent on region. With most of the refineries in Oz now dead, there's less variability in local stuff, and he majority of our fuels are not even refined here any more anyway. It probably depends more on which SE Asian refinery is currently cheapest to operate.
×
×
  • Create New...