Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey guys,

I recently destroyed my turbo due to abuse and too many hot stops. (learnt my lesson) anyways there are bits of the intake propeller (i think it is called an impeller) missing three pieces. two are about the size of a small corn flake so does anyone think they are in the intercooler? or in the engine? (if they are in the engine, how the F should i get it out?) The three piece is thin but longer than the others and my main concern they are sitting in a cynlinder grinding away?

Please tell me your opinions.............. feel free to abuse me for destorying a turbo p.s i destoryed a big end bearing before that doing doughnuts?

any thoughts would be awesome....

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/218056-blown-turbo-propeller/
Share on other sites

undo all of the intercooler piping and check for bits and debris

also remove the intercooler and shake it around to clear any loose bits

check all the way upto the throttle body

we saw an r33 smash its compressor wheel

and there were bits mashed up against the throttle body

Intercoolers act as a lovely expensive filter when turbo's crap themselves.... I would think its time for a new cooler mate... Unless you want to risk one little bit blowing through one day...

Also check the butterfly in the throttle body, good indication of injested crap is little score marks on the butterfly made by shit hitting it...

Definately buy a new cooler... At least thats what I did :P

dont need to buy a new cooler. ive blown 6 turbos and cooler is still perfect.

just clean it with heaps of pressure and get the bits of metal out.

flush your engine oil too cause small fragments would have most likely passed through the motor.

but u will know when this happens, my motor clunked for about 1-2 minutes after i blew the last turbo. noise went away. cars still purrs, i think im just lucky.

I'm going to check my intercooler soon too. I had the same thing happen. I never saw a hint of any debris anywhere in the intercooler piping, including throttle body, so I assume it might be pre-intercooler, or has already exited the engine. No signs of any motor damage. I drove around with the replacement turbo for 2-3 weeks before I opened the old turbo and found the compressor part missing.

Fixxxer

Sorry, I'm not hijacking this other guys thread, but I was running 0.8bar (12psi) on an RB20DET for the 2.5years I've had it, and it let go in 1st gear turning at an intersection, just starting to build boost. I guess it had enough and decided to break the rear wheel, before chipping the compressor wheel. Was making 229HP@wheels.

I do not have the history prior to this, although, it seems as though the ECU and previous dyno runs done by former owner, indicate it had been running higher, like 0.9-1bar. Dyno graph indicates 249hp@wheels.

Fixxxer

Hey guys, thanks for you input! i think i will pull the intercooler and all the piping off and do a search for those pieces. I was running a slide highflow 15 psi which dropped to 12 psi with a turbotech T b.controller. I was thinking about doing a diy compression test, oil flush with some cheap oil - good stuff after, change radiator coolant, flushed and cleaned lines for new turbo, and a INTERCOOLER and pipe search. I wil post the picture of the impeller.. i really appreciate the feedback..

thanks again... p.s could i some how look inside the cynlinders? check for bits?

everytime i see the word "propeller" makes me laugh.. lol funny shit

Are you sure that the turbo chipped during the failure? maybe something hit it earlier on and the engine allready ate up the propella pieces :banana:

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • The wiring diagram for the R33 RB25 is freely available, and is essentially the same same as most other RBs (just with differences as to which pin # does which job). To get the ECU to power up, you just need to provide power to the ECCS relay, and have the other power feeds that come in from the top left of the wiring diagram (wrt the ECU) that give perma power to the fuel pump relay, the ECU itself, etc etc, all connected. When you put power on all these it will just come to life. It's pretty clear from the diagram what needs to happen. Just follow the lines from the 12V + supply stuff in the top left over towards the ECU. I've even posted snips of such diagrams (not for vanilla 25, I think for Neo and 26) to various threads here in the last few months, talking about what it takes to get the fuel pump and FPCM up and going. Search these up and they will help get you started on doing the same with the vanilla 25 diagram. Hell, for all I know, I've done the same with that one in years past and have forgotten.
    • Yep...so unless someone posts up the answer you will need to probe from the ECU connector to the dash plug with a multi meter in continuity mode to trace the wires.  Note the ECU has multiple - and + (and across different key settings - Battery, IGN and Start) and most likely the power is fed from the connector(s) that is normally near the left hand headlight.
    • Thanks Duncan, I am actually just trying to get the Rb turning and running with the RB25DET S2 original loom itself  I am just trying to get it going outside the body and not thinking about the S15 or trying to match anything to the S15 loom at all I am only trying to see if anyone has done this and what pin they found to be the ignition trigger and ECU+/- on the dash connector, that's about it. Thanks  
    • Hi Guys, Does anyone know any aftermarket part numbers for a starter motor to suit the VQ25DET? I can find lots of alternative part number for the VQ35DE, which I assume would fit, but there is a lot of conflicting information out there. Thanks..
    • I don't understand how this hasn't boiled down to - Upgrade the turbo when you have everything required. ECU, injectors, fuel pump, turbo, etc. Do it all at once.  If you don't have everything required, just enjoy the car as it is and keep saving up your pennies. 
×
×
  • Create New...