Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

  • Replies 895
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

  • 2 weeks later...
If any of the dealers know if/when the V44 becomes available with peak and hold high current drivers let me know because I need a wire in computer .

Cheers Adrian .

buy a V88 ya tightass. :blink:

Its not a case of being tight , its just extra money for a computer that has things a four cylinder can't use . The money would be better spent on other bits and pieces .

A .

It may sound silly to some but Ive pull out the Motec M800 and back in goes the old PowerFC with a good tune, I wish I had of spent the money on a 2.8 stroker :) , the new ECU sounds good thou.

Its not a case of being tight , its just extra money for a computer that has things a four cylinder can't use . The money would be better spent on other bits and pieces .

A .

put two engines in it...one for the rear wheels and one for the front that way all the driver outputs (ignition and injection) are utilised....problem solved!

Edited by DiRTgarage
I have confirmed with Ray that they have made a plug and play computer for the RB25 Neo motor.

This means we have two options of the Power FC and now the Vipec. :)

But only has 4 ignition drivers unless you want to get a V88.

Hopefully haltech will release more plug and play models

Not sure about that, I mentioned Haltech to my tuner and he nearly threw up! That and I personally have not seen many high end GTR's with Haltechs to sway me.

yeah the old Haltech stuff was pretty poor....especially the tuning software. From all reports the new stuff is much improved...but it had to be to have any share of the market.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • That is way more science than even I would use. I just eyeball it, not even accounting for the non-verticality of the tape measure when held on the lip and the centre at the same time. +/- 2mm is good enough for the girls I go out with.
    • So, before putting them in I need to understand the stock ride height. This is how I measured it: First, check the diameter of the wheel's centre cap, it was 52mm. Then put a piece of masking tape approximately across the centre and measure 27mm (half) from at least 3 sides to get a reasonable idea of the centre of the wheel cap. Mark that with a horizontal line as one measuring point. Then, directly above the wheel on the guard, put another piece of masking tape in approximately the centre. Use a string line to find out the point on the guard above the centre of the wheel cap and mark that. Then it is simple, just a tape measure to check the distance from centre of the wheel to the centre of the guard. Final results where  LF: 381mm RF: 379mm LR: 401mm RR: 400mm Pretty even considering they are 120,000klm old factory springs, lets call that 380 front and 400 rear.
    • So....knowing that I have a problem with power steering temps on track and another Wakefield day booked in next Friday, I've done the obvious thing They are very reasonably priced at $1650, considering they are a big monotube shock, double height adjustable (don't have to change pre-load to change ride height), one way adjustable damping and standard sized and customisable springs if you want something other than what comes with them. They come with 9kg/mm front and 4.5kg/mm front and I went with that as a starting point because I'll add adjustable sway bars too https://justjap.com/products/bc-racing-coilover-kit-ds-ds-infiniti-q50-v37-14-current#description Unfortunately they didn't come with rear strut tops so I've re-used the factory ones which was a bit of a pain. Also, the adjuster for the rear shock will be an absolute nightmare to get at, and while there are extensions in the kit I can't see any way you can actually attach or use them
    • I also had 2 bulbs blow at once, years ago in the stagea. made for a fun drive home. The issue was the voltage regulator had failed in the alternator and it was giving 15+ volts. Really, I was lucky all that was fried were the headlight bulbs. So, I'd suggest you check the voltage across your battery terminals with the car running and warmed up. Yes, you will need a multimeter to do so, sorry.
    • Good work to think to check that, and thanks for coming back to post up the outcome.
×
×
  • Create New...