Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

hay all just have a few question,firstly its an rb20 and for the build i so far have r33gtr cams,crank shaft and conrods. to fit the crank and rods the engine needs to be machined?for clearances?also can get some rb26 pistons for cheap,or would i be better of getting some forgies although i am on kind of a tight buget?also what kind of displacement would this take the rb20 to +do for it torque wise?

thanks all in advance

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/218619-rb20-engine-build/
Share on other sites

more power,yes i am on a tight buget but have a brother that owns an engine reco workshop ie can do all the engine machining block blue printing ect.......for free and have a friend thats a good machanic that is gonna pull down the engine with me and put it all back together.+have alot of the parts for it already.

You can either get Tomei 2.4L pistons which i think are 82 or 83mm or you can try some custom cosworth etc pistons. The head gasket will msot likely be Tomei as well to suit the new bore.

Do a search for RB24, you should be able to get plenty of good infto. Particulary from Legend01 who built a nice 3000rwkws example

thanks for all the input,was just asking about the pistons gtr didn know the difference in size(bore).buget don't really have one just don't want to go stuiped.as i have just purchased a 2way and coilovers and in the process of buying a turbo 2530 maybe 2535 or 40 considering the build,thoughts?

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Get something that can spray a bit, something like I'd use is a pressure pack for weed sprayer. I use one with degreaser. Spray it on (make sure you're fully covered up, you don't want that shit on you, especially face/eyes). Alternatively, a paint brush will help here as you can brush and work at the stuff quite aggressively.   Be aware, citric acid can eat metal away and will cause it to rust more later. So make sure you neutralise it when done, and give the fresh metal some protection. That hanger, I'd honestly bin and get something like the Frenchy's drop in replacement. The tank, again, I'd look for something else to replace it with. Remember, as metal turns to rust, it means there's less metal there now. So some patches of your fuel tank are likely to be quite thin.   Personally, Id focus on the front end of things, IE, how did the injectors get clogged if they're meant to be after a fuel filter. Then, once the front is sorted, I'd rig something up, even like a small surge tank, and make sure the engine is now running and all behaving. Then I'd replace the fuel tank and fuel hanger and pump. Also, I'd already be preparing to ditch your fuel filter...  
    • That's looking great! Are you planning to do things like all hidden wiring with it, or you're planning to have it look more like we'd expect an RB in an engine bay to look like?
    • Haha thanks everyone, I'll take everyone's suggestions into consideration. If I do eventually choose a car ill post it here update on the mods I do.
    • I found the ingredients at larger amounts from a Coffee Shop. 1kg Citric Acid for €8.50 500g Baking Soda for €2.50 I tried it out tonight distilled water (I got from my ACs) and dish soap. It does get bubbly with dish soap. In just two hours the hanger has improved significantly and rubbing against any remaining rust seems to flake it off. I'm going to leave it a little bit longer and see how it goes. I have read that someone even used this solution in an ultrasonic cleaner to clean a seized water pump which brought it back to life.
    • If you like more modern stuff than the R series, you should check out a V37 400R, they are pretty mod friendly
×
×
  • Create New...