Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

I recently got a ATS single plate Carbon Clutch installed and having problems with it. I've done about 1500 km's so far and from installation have never really been happy with it. The last 2 weeks I've had a copul of times in 2nd and 3rd where there has been big slipping...Today going up a mild hill changing from 2nd to 3rd I put my foot down and wrrrrr big slip again. I've noticed the positon of clutch release has changed to almost 90% out, intially it seemed to be about 70%, the position definitely seems to have changed, any more and there will be no clutch.

What I'm wondering is can this clutch be adjusted or if release fork can be adjusted would this help. I can honestly say I have given this clutch no harsh treatment at all. I've taken it back to the workshop (its Japanese Hi peformance shop here in Japan) 2 weeks and they reckon its fine. It's deinitely got worse since then. The cars (GTR 33) going back this monday for other mods, so I'll get them to suss again but if anyones got any ideas or experiences with ATS Carbon clutches any heads up would be great!!

By the way this clutch is supposedly rated to 550ps and car would only be putting out 450 at the moment.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/218637-ats-carbon-clutch-problems/
Share on other sites

Yep...its never been right ...makes some weird noises in the cold and it gets bloody cold here in winter (-10 to 15c) In slow traffic it shudders heaps..driving around on the ice is a bitch. Normal traffic its sweet..smooth take offs but the release point on the pedal has gone further and further out..It feels like I've fried it (did the last one a beauty) but I havent given this any stick, havent even spun the wheels as yet. The odd fast take off but only when moving..bloody frustrating as they reckon its a good clutch..

Probably is a good clutch, there is possibly a chance there is air in the hydrolic clutch line, therefore the air is compressing and your loosing clutch pedal, and it's not disengaging/engaging like it should.

Take it back, tell them the issues, tell them you have given it the 1/2,000kms to see if it just needed to bed in, but it's getting worse, and get them to check it.

B.

Hey Mate, its gotta be ya first suggestion of pre-load as I have not caned this clutch as its been suss since being installed. I always let the car come up to operating temps before putting the foot in and really have been driving the car like an old fart.

Dropped the car off to workshop on monday, on the way it was flaring pretty bad. Basically sitting in 2nd on or just under 3000rpm then put the foot down (and honestly not that hard ) the clutch woud slipped real nasty, same with 3rd at 3000 rpm then foot down and slipped pretty solidly. It happened 4 or 5 times! Got to the workshop and took my tuner for a spin, he was scratching his head as to why but said there was no way it should be slipping but agreed it was and something wrong. Had him baffled as japanese tuners are pretty meticulous and these guys build some solid track/drift/drag/street cars.

Anyway box and clutch are coming out to try suss the problem. I was looking forward to having this clutch in as they reckon the ATS ACROSS clutches are great clutches but for me its never been right. Real noisy with some hell strange noises, hopefully we get to the bottom of it as got track weekend next month and was looking forward to giving the car a good run. Just got to persevere and keep throwing the coin down the well they call a GTR!

By the way I checked how many k's since install and its just a touch over 1800 km's and most of that was done in the snow and ice, the cars been in and out of the workshop getting other mods done so havent done alot of driving, still got snow tyres on. ..also I did the first 500 to exactly their instructions. ..didnt hit boost at all and basically drove like a granny until it was run in.

Edited by elrodeo666

I was looking at the twin but supposedly this clutch is rated to 600ps (about 590 HP) and for currrent state of mods was supposed to suit me to a tee. Plus I was thinking of sending the car to oz at the end of the year so didnt want to go too overboard with mods but that seems to have had the handbrake let off on that one. I was looking at street drivability as where I live in japan roads are covered in snow and ice for 3-4 months and was told twin would be a bitch thru this period as heaps of super slow driving and take offs..

The single did have great pedal feel and felt almost like stock and as I drive heaps in the winter I went the single road. The bonus of ice and snow is some insane drifting!!

Well clutch plate fried and needs to be rebuilt. In the middle of a battle with the tuning shop. They reckon its my driving style, which is absolute ball twang as I've never been happy or confident in this clutch since installation, so never given it any stick. My guess is too much preload, friction plate burnt out super fast.

Now big decision is go the rebuild or go something better. Looking at Nismo Twin Coppermix as I can get it through a friend for 30% off RRP plus higher HP rating and supposed to be pretty strong.

ats recomend some "light deliberate slipping" to warm up the clutch proir to every thrashing. we installed a twin into a tt350z and apon reading the BOOKLET (was quite thick) for using it... i decided it was all abit to tricky. evan this one did slip on the first drive but seemed to grip up fine when warm.

make sure they fitted the correct throw out bearing carrier... i have had to fix heaps of workshops FU's cause someone did not fit the new carrier supplied (like the onesin ORC clutch kits) ..... sif you use the old one anyway :rofl:

most use a GTiR carrier.

This will crack you up...looking at June 6th as the earliest I can get Nismo Copper from Nismo in Japan..None in stock...And you blokes reckon you gotta wait for parts..

bummer. maybe look at an ORC twin. if you get the sprung centre version you will find it's not too bad in traffic/snow etc. the sprung centre gives it just that little bit of 'give' when you release the clutch

bummer. maybe look at an ORC twin. if you get the sprung centre version you will find it's not too bad in traffic/snow etc. the sprung centre gives it just that little bit of 'give' when you release the clutch

yup the ORC is my weapon of choice.

Well decided to go the nismo as i can get good discount thru my mechanic. Was looking at the ORC but once bitten twice shy of anything with carbon for now plus nuying 2 clutches in 4 months makes me go toward the Nismo. Grabbing nismo engine and gearbox mounts as well and some Defi guages going in while I wait for the clutch.

  • 2 weeks later...

Picked up my car today from my tuner and gotta say the nismo twin suoer coppermix is a dream to drive, smooth as silk and no noise. Bloody stoked but have to run the bugger in before giving it some stick which is a bummer as theres definitely some more HP after a few tweaks and mods have done.

But all I can say is I wish I bought the Nismo first off, sweet as to drive and real sweet on the drive line..Should be run in for track work on the 22nd..cant wait.

Cheers Baron...honestly though the difference between clutches is massive. Mind you theres good chance they screwed up with the install of the ATS but the Nismo is just so sweet to drive...gear changes are so much smoother..Will see how it goes on the track in a couple of weeks.

Cant tell what its like with power but so far over the moon with it ..touch wood.

The boys wouldnt admit a mistake but did the install for free, so cant complain that much..

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Yes. You will need to get the original boost sensor and wire it in. That is.... if you plan to use a stock ECU - even a Nistuned ECU. The Nissan ECU will not operate correctly without it connected. And yes, it will do annoying stuff like you are experiencing. You will almost certainly be better off with some aftermarket ECU, than trying to hunt down rare sensors.
    • Ok so ABS/TCS is "not" the problem. Yeah i know now about the ABS with Nistune(i told that to the Nistune guy) but iam not 100% why or why i dont have ABS. ABS cube is in the engine (always has been) but i had braked couple of times rly hard and brakes just locked and scream. Does all Skylines have ABS cube? That boost sensor https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/367633-wtb-r34-gtt-turbo-pressure-sensor-pics-inside/ Is this it? I need to ask but i have a picture of engine bay and i do not see that (100% is not in that place) If i do not have this the car can do what mine is?(cutting around 4000 rpm) Here is the pic of my engine bay(only one i have) BUT i think i dont have that cuz loom was used from my RB20DE NEO and i know (obviously) that it does not have boost control or any wire to that...) so maybe that is the problem? (i dont know for 100% if that car where the engine is from had that)...but i dont have the loom from that
    • I'm with you here. It's either loom has an issue, OR, injectors are not functioning properly. It could even be they're just constantly dribbling, hence the wet, but not firing.
    • Depending on how long the car sat it is very possible for injectors to be stuck open or closed, I'd get them cleaned and flow tested. Other than that, obviously when the loom changes and the car doesn't start any more....the loom is suspect so some tracing / comparing may be required
    • Harness is for a s1 Rb25det, and it is engine and lower harness.  the old harness had broken off plugs and was in very rough condition/exposed wires and splices etc. it is not able to be put back on the car, I could visually inspect to see if they had rewired any pins on the ecu plug. The fuel pump definitly isn’t turning off it’s an external pump and very loud you can hear it. Will look at the other harness tonight, am also going to pull the fuel rail and watch the injectors spray, will update here with what I find. Pretty sure at this point it has to be something to do with injectors because car will fire up on starting fluid and cas is clicking the Injectors. Fuel pressure is steady 43psi 
×
×
  • Create New...