Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

I always thought warming the car up in the morning at idle is a necessary thing to do, until 2 of my mates told me that they read its better for the car to breath air as they warm up so just to drive it normally without pushing it too much for the first 5 mins.

Apparently its not too good for the car to be warmed up at idle, is this true?

What are your opinions on this? (Im so confused)

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/218648-warming-car-up-at-idle/
Share on other sites

the thing is, its not only the engine that needs warming up... ur gear box and diff also needs to be warmed up....

Its better to turn on the engine.. give it about 15 seconds for the oil to start pumping in and around... then take it easy on the road.. i.e shift before 3000rpm, or even better 2700 rpm until operating temp as been reached.

Your engine will warm up faster if ur driving it as well.

Hope this helps,

Brendan

There was an article in The Age's Good Weekend, about 12 months ago, by Karl Kruszelnicki. Some of what it says:

- Engines run best at their design temp. Idling is not the best or quickest way to warm up an engine. GENTLE driving is.

- When idling, the fuel is not completely burnt. Unburnt fuel condenses on the cylinder walls, washing the oil off the cylinder walls and also thinning the oil.

- Idling drops spark plug temps, leading to dirty plugs, causing poor fuel economy.

- Idling prevents the catalytic converter reaching its design temp (400 -800C).

- Even in Canada, at -20C, it is recommended no more than 15-30 sec before driving from cold start. So even less is desirable in warm Oz.

Canada's Office of Energy Efficiency calculated that 5 minutes less idling each day would save $646 MILLION in fuel costs and and 1.6 million Tonnes greenhouse gases per year, in Canada alone.

hahah thanks for the help, also i shoulda done a search but i couldn't be bothered last night so late. :blush:

yer the thing is i warm up the car every morning for about 10 mins, so i thought maybe i should change my way of warming up now if its bad for the engine. and no wonder my petrol always dissapears every next day lol

Oh yeah another question, then if i wanted to cool down the turbo and engine after a long cruise/speeding, do i keep the car engine at idle for that? is that okay too? or do i just turn the engine off after few mins of turbo cool down for the engine to cool down best?

Edited by R33Turbo

i used to let it warm up but i read it might glaze the engine so i just take it easy untill the car is up to running temp. saves on fuel too..ha.

as for cool down, unless your drive way is at the end of a quarter mile, driving your car conservatively a couple blocks befor your home is more than enough to let it cool down i recon...then the ttimer will take care of the rest. mines set to only 30secs anyways, it used to be at 50secs but i found it pointless after a while.

i used to let it warm up but i read it might glaze the engine so i just take it easy untill the car is up to running temp. saves on fuel too..ha.

as for cool down, unless your drive way is at the end of a quarter mile, driving your car conservatively a couple blocks befor your home is more than enough to let it cool down i recon...then the ttimer will take care of the rest. mines set to only 30secs anyways, it used to be at 50secs but i found it pointless after a while.

Besides my GTR and some 31's I have a 700h/p daily driver ute and it has forged pistons which are noisy when cold because of the swell required in the piston material to bring it to the required piston to bore clearance.

The way I understand it the result of revving or driving the car before the pistons have swollen to the required tolerance and putting load on the engine is that the piston moves in an oval movement, although only slightly at low revs, until the swelling is complete then it travels in a more direct path up and down the bore necessitating much less wear,obviously the higher the revs when cold the more times the piston is exposed to pre swollen wear as load accentuates the oval movement.

Of course I'm talking about forgies here which is the most extreme tolerance piston to bore clearance,so a normal piston would not have as much problem and therefore warm up would not be as important as I believe it is for my engine,but I believe cold start wear is less about oil temp as many people think and far more about piston swell and tolerances,so in normal car circumstances I agree with the other posters to take it easy till engine temps are reached.Cheers Grey Pearl.

u do know it only takes 30sec for a turbo to spool down right?'

'mafia' et al.

3 min is a bit excessive for a trip to the shops. i just cool for 10sec maybe 20sec

must be a 'cool' factor in leaving a vehicle running while u strut past all the customers :(

Edited by r33cruiser

I give it the time it takes to smoke a cigarette. Cool down, I just don't thrash it for the last few blocks to my house then give it the time it takes to grab my wallet, phone etc. If I've just hammered it into my driveway I'll give it a minute or so.

Most people do not need turbo timers on their cars... Simple as that... The only reason somee do is because they heat the turbo up so much that it will seize if not given the time to cool down...

Who drives like an idiot on the road, pushing their car so hard all the way to their drive way to need one???

Most people do not need turbo timers on their cars... Simple as that... The only reason somee do is because they heat the turbo up so much that it will seize if not given the time to cool down...

Who drives like an idiot on the road, pushing their car so hard all the way to their drive way to need one???

Point being is whilst you may be able to get a turbo timer you cannot get a brake rotor timer, a calliper timer, a gearbox timer, a transfer case timer, a diff timer.....

With regard to warming the engine the procedure should be this:

1. Get in car.

2. Start car.

3. Drive off gently.

Anything else is a waste of petrol, will wear your engine out quicker & most importantly will annoy the crap out of your neighbours or the bloke lined up to take your parking bay.

Point being is whilst you may be able to get a turbo timer you cannot get a brake rotor timer, a calliper timer, a gearbox timer, a transfer case timer, a diff timer.....

With regard to warming the engine the procedure should be this:

1. Get in car.

2. Start car.

3. Drive off gently.

Anything else is a waste of petrol, will wear your engine out quicker & most importantly will annoy the crap out of your neighbours or the bloke lined up to take your parking bay.

BAM!! hit the nail on the head.

save the cool down time and warm up time for the track

...will annoy the crap out of your neighbours or the bloke lined up to take your parking bay

Id glass my neighbor if they idled their stock 34 every morning for 10mins.

- Start, idle 20s from cold, drive gently for 5mins - done.

- Don't load the car up 5 mins before stopping - done.

Id glass my neighbor if they idled their stock 34 every morning for 10mins.

- Start, idle 20s from cold, drive gently for 5mins - done.

- Don't load the car up 5 mins before stopping - done.

lol so it wears the engine out at idle than whilst driving in cold is it?

What does it mean by "it wears engine out quicker" is it bad at idle?

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Even more fun, leave all the ADAS stuff plugged in, but in different locations, hopefully avoid any codes!   And honestly, all these new cars with their weird electronics. Pull all the electronics out Duncan, and just shove an aftermarket ECU and if needed a trans controller in, along with a PDM. Make it run basic but race car styled!
    • To follow up a question from earlier too since I had the front bar off again (fking!) This is what is between the bumper and the drivers side wheel And this is the navigator side, only one thing but its a biggy! So basically....no putting coolers in the wheel arches without a lot of moving other stuff. Assuming I move to properly race prepping this car I'll take that job on and see how the computers respond to removing a whole bunch of ADAS modules
    • So I prepped the car for another track day on Wednesday (will be interesting to see coolant temps post flushing out and the larger reservoir, with a forecast of 3-14 being 20o cooler than last time I took it out). Couple of things to mention; since I am just driving the car and not taking a support vehicle, I took the rear seats out and just loaded the back up Team Trackday style. Look at all that space! To cover off removing the rear seat....it is weird (note the hybrid is probably different because it wouldn't have folding rear seats) Basically, you remove the lower seat base, very similar to a r series but it is a clip that pulls forward to release the base rather than it being bolted down. Easy Then, you need to remove the side section of the rear seat on each side. There is a 14mm head nut at the bottom of the side piece, the it slides upwards off a hook at the top to release; you also need to unhook the seatbelt from the loop at the top. Then the centre piece is weird. You need to release/fold the seats forward with the tab in the boot on each side From there, there are 2,x12mm headed bolts holding the rear of each seat to the folding bracket, under the trim between the rear seat and the boot (4x christmas tree clips there, they suck). The seat is out but you can see where the bolts attach to the bracket
    • As discussed in the previous post, the bushes in the 110 needed replacing. I took this opportunity to replace the castor bushes, the front lower control arm, lower the car and get the alignment dialled in with new tyres. I took it down to Alignment Motorsports on the GC to get this work done and also get more out of the Shockworks as I felt like I wasn't getting the full use out of them.  To cut a very long story short, it ended up being the case the passenger side castor arm wouldn't accept the brand new bush as the sleeve had worn badly enough to the point you could push the new bush in by hand and completely through. Trying a pair of TRD bushes didn't fix the issue either (I had originally gone with Hardrace bushes). We needed to urgently source another castor arm, and thankfully this was sourced and the guys at the shop worked on my car until 7pm on a Saturday to get everything done. The car rides a lot nicer now with the suspension dialled in properly. Lowered the car a little as well to suit the lower profile front tyres, and just bring the car down generally. Eternally thankful for the guys down at the shop to get the car sorted, we both pulled big favours from our contacts to get it done on the Saturday.  Also plugged in the new Stedi foglights into the S15, and even from a quick test in the garage I'm keen to see how they look out on the road. I had some concerns about the length of the LED body and whether it'd fit in the foglight housing but it's fine.  I've got a small window coming up next month where I'll likely get a little paint work done on the 110 to remove the rear wing, add a boot wing and roof wing, get the side skirt fixed up and colour match the little panel on the tail lights so that I can install some badges that I've kept in storage. I'm also tempted to put in a new pair of headlights on the 110.  Until then, here's some more pictures from Easter this year. 
    • I would put a fuel pressure gauge between the filter and the fuel rail, see if it's maintaining good fuel pressure at idle going up to the point when it stalls. Do you see any strange behavior in commanded fuel leading up to the point when it stalls? You might have to start going through the service manual and doing a long list of sensor tests if it's not the fuel system for whatever reason.
×
×
  • Create New...