Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Will thermal wrapping a stainless manifold make the steel crack quicker than not wrapped?

I have heard that you need to let stainless breathe? Is this true?

GCG highmount if it makes any difference. As ive heard those china ones crack very easy.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/218661-thermal-wrapping-stainless-manifold/
Share on other sites

I have probably sold about 400 SR20, CA18, RB China manifolds over the last 4-5 years, only 6 of them have cracked, 2 of the guys didnt have flex pipes, 4 were using wrap.

Good internal and external ceramic coating works just as well as wrap to keep the bay cool, and looks better.

No way it works as well as the thermal wrap. I have tried all sorts of combos on my high mount setup and at present a time consuming shield works well as i was sick of wrapping mnaifolds all the time as that wrap crap doesnt last that long when its seeing high temps pn the track, ditto the ceramic coating. 12-18 months was all i could get from it :blush:

Roy, how was it degrading; patches of it simply falling off the manifold?

One of the brands of exhaust wrap i used was crap. One lasted great, the other went like glass and fell off after one track day. It became very brittle. They were both from Revolution Race Gear, only one was a different brand and was wider. I later tried the brand that didnt go brittle on the whole manifold and it last great until i removed it when i removed the turbo after about 18 months of service.

The reason i decided to try the wrap was the ceramic coating didnt reduce temps anywhere near what i was led to believe, the difference was marginal, but still better. Main reason i liked it was for its treatment of the metal itself and the small difference it would make to the differential temperaure the steel would see. Ie one side hot the other cold (engine bay air)

I found the combintation of the two worked really well, only the wrap still gets changed when the setup comes off the engine every now and then for maintenance purposes. So liek i said these days its easier to just remove/re-install the shield i made

gallery_462_50_47384.jpg

I always brace the turbo flange to the manifold flange plus brace the dump pipe to the gearbox to make sure the weight of the turbo, the wastegate and the dump pipe is not solely carried by the manifold. I always wrap the manifold and the dump pipe in genuine Longacre thermal wrap. Guess what? I have never had a manifold crack, no matter how cheap and nasty.

Cheers

Gary

I always brace the turbo flange to the manifold flange plus brace the dump pipe to the gearbox to make sure the weight of the turbo, the wastegate and the dump pipe is not solely carried by the manifold. I always wrap the manifold and the dump pipe in genuine Longacre thermal wrap. Guess what? I have never had a manifold crack, no matter how cheap and nasty.

Cheers

Gary

i found the exhaust temps are directly related to H P and air fuel ratios on my race car the first dump pipe burnt the ceramic coating off in a couple of race meetings, i,ve given up on thermal wrap ect!! at present my steampipe manifold and 4 inch dump pipe is plain jane its easier to fit bonnet vents and lift rear of bonnet.

heat

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I got back to Japan in January and was keen to get back on track as quickly as possible. Europe is god-awful for track accessibility (by comparison), so I picked up a first-gen GT86 in December just to have something I could jump into right away. The Skyline came over in a container this time and landed in early January. It was a bit battered after Europe, though—I refused to do anything beyond essential upkeep while it was over there. The clutch master cylinder gave out, and so did the power steering. I didn’t even bother changing the oil; it was the same stuff that went in just before I left Japan the first time. Naughty. Power steering parts would’ve cost double with shipping and taxes, so knowing I’d be heading back to Japan, I just postponed it and powered through the arm workout. It took a solid three months to get the car back on the road. Registration was a nightmare this time around. There were a bunch of BS fees to navigate, and sourcing parts was a headache. I needed stock seats for shaken, mistakenly blew 34k JPY on some ENR34 seats—which, of course, didn’t fit—then ended up having the car’s technical sheet amended to register it as a two-seater with the Brides. Then there’s the GT86. Amazing car. Does everything I want it to do. Parts are cheap, easy to find, and I don’t care what anyone says—it’s super rewarding to drive. I’ve done a few basic mods: diff ratio, coilovers, discs, pads, seat, etc. It already had a new exhaust manifold and the 180kph limiter removed, so I assume it’s running some kind of map. I’ve just been thrashing it at the track non-stop—mostly Fuji Speedway now, since I need something with higher speed after all that autobahn time. The wheels on the R34 always pissed me off—too big, and it was a nightmare getting tires to fit properly under the arches. So I threw in the towel and bought something that fits better. Looks way cleaner too (at least to me)—less hotboy, less attention-seeking. Still an R34, though. Now for future plans. There are a few things still outstanding with the car. First up, the rear subframe needs an overhaul—that’s priority one. Next, I need to figure out an engine rebuild plan. No timeline yet, but I want to keep it economical—not cutting corners, just not throwing tens of thousands at a mechanic I can barely communicate with. And finally, paint. Plus a bit of tidying up here and there.  
    • Nope, needed to clearance under the bar a little with a heat gun, a 1/2" extension as the "clearancer", and big hammer, I was aware of this from the onset, they fit a 2.0 with this intake no problems, but, the 2.5 is around 15mm taller than a 2.0, so "clearancing" was required  It "just" touched when test fitting, now, I have about 10mm of clearance  You cannot see where it was done, and so far, there's no contact when giving it the beans Happy days
    • It's been a while since I've updated this thread. The last year (and some) has been very hectic. In the second-half of 2024 I took the R34 on a trip through Germany, Italy, France and Switzerland - it was f*cking great. I got a little annoyed with the attention the car was getting around Europe and really didn't drive it that much. I could barely work on the car since I was living in an inner-city apartment (with underground parking). During the trip, the car lost power steering in France - split hose - and I ended up driving around 4,000kms with no power steering.  There were a few Nurburgring trips here and there, but in total the R34 amassed just shy of 7,000kms on European roads. Long story short, I broke up with the reason I was transferred to Europe for and requested to be moved back to Japan. The E90, loved it. It was a sunk cost of around EUR 10,000 and I sold it to a friend for EUR 1,500 just to get rid of it quickly. Trust me, moving countries f*cking sucks and I could not be bothered to be as methodical as I was the first time around.
    • I assume clearances were all a-okay?
×
×
  • Create New...