Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

I know there's faster cars out their but i'm getting there. Recently install a greddy FMIC and Blitz sbc i-color boost controller. Thanks to RE custom, what is the max KW i can get out of a stock turbo and ecu? and what steps do you guys think i should do next?

dyno1.jpg

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/219020-my-first-dyno/
Share on other sites

without spending any $ instantly read the dual stage boost hack in the tutorial section

this will make the car run 9psi from memory all the time, the auto runs less boost than the manual, so your missing some power too

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/219020-my-first-dyno/#findComment-3862871
Share on other sites

good stuff!! and thats a fine dyno reading! now everytime you have some work done and dinoed you have a base of comparrison! if it makes you feel better my gtr first dyno made 147 from reccolection on stock boost with minor mods. top stuff

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/219020-my-first-dyno/#findComment-3863005
Share on other sites

Good start with the frontmount intercooler

Get an air pod or stick to the standard air box and up grade the panel filter. Car could breath abit better.

BTW did you have an exhaust? Can't remember when I saw ya car at the East Side meet up...

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/219020-my-first-dyno/#findComment-3863008
Share on other sites

12psi on the stock ECU is a waste of time

if you want the max out of the stock turbo, you'll need engine management. either standalone (pfc etc) or piggyback (SAFC etc)

in a manual you could expect 200rwkw with supporting mods (3" turbo back exhaust etc) maybe a touch less in an auto.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/219020-my-first-dyno/#findComment-3863011
Share on other sites

12psi on the stock ECU is a waste of time

if you want the max out of the stock turbo, you'll need engine management. either standalone (pfc etc) or piggyback (SAFC etc)

in a manual you could expect 200rwkw with supporting mods (3" turbo back exhaust etc) maybe a touch less in an auto.

True with the ecu get a safc for budget or if you have funds get power fc

i was trying to get the bloke some free power

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/219020-my-first-dyno/#findComment-3863014
Share on other sites

12psi on the stock ECU is a waste of time

if you want the max out of the stock turbo, you'll need engine management. either standalone (pfc etc) or piggyback (SAFC etc)

in a manual you could expect 200rwkw with supporting mods (3" turbo back exhaust etc) maybe a touch less in an auto.

Also no go with pfc an auto if you want good tuneablity go emanage ultimate for the auto

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/219020-my-first-dyno/#findComment-3863018
Share on other sites

How do you read the boost gauage? it's start at -0.00 then it goes up to 0.50 or something does it means that it is running at .5 boost? if the car has been boosted at 10 pounds should it should 10? a bit confuse here.

the stock boost guage is in mmhg not boost or psi

it goes from -760mmhg to 760mhg

when its near -500 at idle, its becuase the engine is in vacuum

when it words its way towards zero and past zero, the engine is in positive boost

so +5 is 500mmhg which is 9.6psi

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/219020-my-first-dyno/#findComment-3863031
Share on other sites

BTW did you have an exhaust? Can't remember when I saw ya car at the East Side meet up...

The exhaust is still stock. All i have is a magnaflow muffler. I'm planning to get either a greddy or hks exhaust system not sure which one yet.

the stock boost guage is in mmhg not boost or psi

it goes from -760mmhg to 760mhg

when its near -500 at idle, its becuase the engine is in vacuum

when it words its way towards zero and past zero, the engine is in positive boost

so +5 is 500mmhg which is 9.6psi

Thanks for that.. :P so i'm gussing that when it reaches +0.65 its around 10-11psi?

I read somewhere that a guy got his car to 185kw with a stock ecu.. possible? i want to get the most out of the stock ecu for the moment as i'm saving up to get a haltech ecu..

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/219020-my-first-dyno/#findComment-3863715
Share on other sites

nice work!

i pulled 106rwkw on my first dyno, fairly stock rb20 auto

2 years later i pulled 170rwkw, still with the auto and only a few more mods!

its good to get a "standard" dyno figure, as it feels better to be able to see exactly what your mods have done to the car..

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/219020-my-first-dyno/#findComment-3865025
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Yes to both! Yes to standard ECU and tune, but exhaust is aftermarket. Unsure on brand. Actually have it sitting in at my desk haha! I have to set it up on my laptop but this is a great next step, will do. So I generally try to shift before 4.5K RPM most times. I largely don't do a lot of high-rev driving, but I will take it up to red 1-2x a week max, as I know the occasional "Italian tune-up" is good for these cars.  Oh wow, is this way better than what I'm getting. Does this mean there's a good chance I have an issue?   Thanks for all the info so far guys.
    • Old Son, did you re-use the Holden ABS in the new shell or try a different module?
    • Yeah, nah. I had the actuator rod off it today. The arm will not move at all. Neither out, nor in. Yeah, you'd think so, but I've been thinking about that. Even when the actuator rod fell all the way off at the beginning of this saga, it would build more boost and faster in lower gears than it would in higher gears, and you'd think that that was the opposite of what should happen. But I strongly suspect that there is a thing with the gearing getting the revs to rise faster, that there must be some transient effect with the gas flow rate rising quickly, that you don't get with the more steady state case of the higher gears. Keep in mind - the gate is not shut in either of my weirdnesses. So things are not "normal". We normally think about a turbo spooling up (below the wastegate target) with the gate shut. I have all sorts of mental models running now where the gate is a little bit open, and having it stuck open allowing gas out while it should be going through the turbine has all sorts of weird effects (in these mental models). I'm thinking in the higher gears, the ex mani pressure builds to the point where enough gases spill out the wastegate to just prevent the pressure rising much more at all, or just creeping up, all the whole the revs are increasing and getting closer to the point where a gear shift becomes necessary.
    • Is it possibly wastegate actuator itself is sticking, or even the rod to flapper? Otherwise I reckon things are getting a bit rusty/worn   Also odd it won't boost in 3rd to 5th, but will in 1st, I'd expect the other way around with it slightly open as there's more time on your way to redline for it to spin up
    • Does anyone know ow what these two plugs are for and if they should be unplugged? Just put the dash back together and can't remember if these were plugged in before or unplugged! (Blue and white plugs) 🤦🏽‍♂️
×
×
  • Create New...