Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

god damit my carbon bonnet wont shut aswell!!!! The cam cover is hitting the second vent. We tried spacers but its just rasing the back of the bonnet and looks really crap aswell. Only option is to cut across half of that vent and then make up another bigger piece of mesh to cover the gap. Shoudnt look 2 bad. Will post pics once done

  • Replies 119
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Top Posters In This Topic

Posted Images

good glad i am not the only one...but hey..may be OEM hood fits better...and don't have to cut out a hole....??

The vented section of a carbon fiber bonnet is flat at the lowest point of each vent so they are possibly worse for clearance.

I have to space my strut brace up now as the cam cover is hitting it as it rev's up. Just going to try 5mm plates first to see if its enough.

The vented section of a carbon fiber bonnet is flat at the lowest point of each vent so they are possibly worse for clearance.

I have to space my strut brace up now as the cam cover is hitting it as it rev's up. Just going to try 5mm plates first to see if its enough.

Get an engine stabiliser bar thing man. Stop the engine twisting. The more the engine twists around, the less power makes it to the wheels.

Get an engine stabiliser bar thing man. Stop the engine twisting. The more the engine twists around, the less power makes it to the wheels.

The engine moves what.. an inch and a half? Two? You think this will stop 500hp getting to the wheels? :/

The engine moves what.. an inch and a half? Two? You think this will stop 500hp getting to the wheels? :rofl:

It's not stopping 500RWHP getting to the wheels...

But how much force is required for you to PUSH the engine by hand that 1.5 - 2" sideways? Measure this amount... Then realise that it's pivoting on the drives side engine mount, Measure in a straight line from the engine mount point, to the passenger side cam cover.

This is your distance. Now multiply the force in newtons you required to push your motor 1.5 - 2" sideways, and this is how much torque you're losing...

Now I know it's a fair amount of force required, and at say 1M, if you need 100newtons to push it sideways, then you're loosing 100nm of torque from the fly... See how quickly it adds up? Get the brace...

It's not stopping 500RWHP getting to the wheels...

But how much force is required for you to PUSH the engine by hand that 1.5 - 2" sideways? Measure this amount... Then realise that it's pivoting on the drives side engine mount, Measure in a straight line from the engine mount point, to the passenger side cam cover.

This is your distance. Now multiply the force in newtons you required to push your motor 1.5 - 2" sideways, and this is how much torque you're losing...

Now I know it's a fair amount of force required, and at say 1M, if you need 100newtons to push it sideways, then you're loosing 100nm of torque from the fly... See how quickly it adds up? Get the brace...

:blush: based on that theory then - if you brace it - how much force is required to move it by hand then? You won't budge it... so now you're losing ALL your torque from the flywheel?

What I am saying is the motor moves 1" to 2" yes, but then it stops - it happens in an instant - and now all your power is going through the drivetrain..

If you motor 'kept moving' (and spun around and around in the engine bay) then sure, you'd be losing power. Or am I missing something...?

:blush: based on that theory then - if you brace it - how much force is required to move it by hand then? You won't budge it... so now you're losing ALL your torque from the flywheel?

What I am saying is the motor moves 1" to 2" yes, but then it stops - it happens in an instant - and now all your power is going through the drivetrain..

If you motor 'kept moving' (and spun around and around in the engine bay) then sure, you'd be losing power. Or am I missing something...?

Go break an engine mount, or just unbolt the passenger one. The motor will twist around a shit load more, response drops off, and so does overall power.

And if no amount of torque can shift the motor, then you won't lose any, because there is none being USED to move it no where.

And if someone sponsors me some L28 mounts, I'll change them over...

Im not exactly sure what you guys are hoping to gain by using L28 mounts,, there is no where to lower the engine.

I have plenty of sump to cross member clearance to lower my motor in the GTS-t.

The GTR I hear has a lot less room though...

I have plenty of sump to cross member clearance to lower my motor in the GTS-t.

The GTR I hear has a lot less room though...

Ditto, I've got may 20mm if I remember correctly.

Obviously there is a lot less room in a GTR due to using adapter plates for the sump etc.

The vented section of a carbon fiber bonnet is flat at the lowest point of each vent so they are possibly worse for clearance.

I have to space my strut brace up now as the cam cover is hitting it as it rev's up. Just going to try 5mm plates first to see if its enough.

ugh i don't care about my strut brace..i just don't want my Hood to be open like that .... it's 1) ugly, 2) ppl can do stuff to ur motor when parked 3) sh*t flies in...etc

:( based on that theory then - if you brace it - how much force is required to move it by hand then? You won't budge it... so now you're losing ALL your torque from the flywheel?

What I am saying is the motor moves 1" to 2" yes, but then it stops - it happens in an instant - and now all your power is going through the drivetrain..

If you motor 'kept moving' (and spun around and around in the engine bay) then sure, you'd be losing power. Or am I missing something...?

I understand what is being said and I intend to get a brace or solid mounts but the rotational force on the engine is all about inertia being transfer d from the stationary parts into the moving parts and the friction between them. The rotational force of the engine is still there even if its solid mounted only you cant see it because the force or kinetic energy is transfer d to the cars chaise. The only way the amount of kinetic energy transfer could be reduced is by using lighter moving engine parts which will also reduce the amount of inertia at top revs etc.

Please correct me if I'm wrong or loan/give me money to get my car going and I will get dyno results of before and after.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • GCG is a good company, they're a major distributor for Garrett in Japan as well.
    • Nah, OEM washer bottle and brake fluid reservoirs are fine I don't know what it is with the plastic that Mazda used, some plastics, like the washer bottle and brake fluid res are fine, and still look new after 20 years use, where as the coolant expansion tank, and PS reservoir, that I replaced with new OEM items when I first got the car, turned yellow and started getting brittle a few years later If the dirty yellow stained plastics didn't trigger me there wouldn't be an issue, but they did, much like the battery bracket....... Meh As for going back to work full time to support car stuff, nope, why, because I own a Mazda NC MX5, not a Nissan R series Skyline 🤣
    • I've never heard of CJ-motor, so can't advise you on them. I'd just go straight to GCG for a GCG highflow though. Seems no point to use a middleman. I'm somewhat surprised that the price on the CJ site is lower than the GCG retail price. Even though CJ would get a discount of some sort, you would hardly expect them to give up so much margin. Maybe the price is out of date? Having said that "I'd go to GCG"...when I did my highflow, I went to Hypergear. I did this https://hypergearturbos.com/product/rb25dethighflow/#tab-dyno-results with the R34 OP6 450HP profile. With the BB centre (extra $400) and intially with the standard boost actuator, but I eventually got him to send me the high pressure one when I got to the point of being able to actually use it. Ends up costing the same sort of money as the GCG highflow, but this is, of course, the turbo that I KNOW has a shorter length core and so moves the comp cover rearwards. The GCG apparently doesn't do that. My mechanic also swears by the GCG highflow, given that we have another turbo rebuilder who does something essentialy the same as theirs, using Garrett wheels. He says it stands up at really low revs and makes good power. I haven't pushed my HG highflow past ~240-250rwkW yet (should have a little more in it, but unclear how much) and it does have a fairly gentle boost ramp. OK, it's much better now that I have gotten my boost controller tuned up on it.  A lot of my earlier unhappiness was because I couldn't keep the wastegate flap as closed as it needed to be (including some mechanical issues). I'd still prefer it to boost up nearly as quickly as the stocker, and it certainly a bit slower than that. So maybe the GCG one is worth the first look (for you).
    • Ok thanks 🙂 I will higly consider this. Any "known" company for a good reviews and experience to send that off? Is that CJ-motor good one? Or go straight to GCG site? I need to use VPN to even find some of those "shops" let alone access them 🙂 
    • You can literally put in as much WMI as it takes to quench the combustion totally (and then back it off a little, obviously), and it will keep making more and more power. The power comes from the cooling effect of the water (and the meth) and the extra fuel (the meth, which also has massive octane). It is effectively exactly like running E85. One might be slightly better than the other, but they are damn close. But with either you can lean on the boost or the timing (or both) waaaay more than with just petrol and the results are similar. Here's the first thing I googled for an anecdotal bit of evidence. Can't access the attachment without being a gold member, but it is there for the getting if able to, or searched up elsewise perhaps. https://www.hpacademy.com/forum/general-tuning-discussion/show/wmi-vs-e85/
×
×
  • Create New...