Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

hey guys, after reading NYTSKY's thread on his engine build i thought i might do one myself :woot: its great to get all sorts of feedback and information from fellow builders/enthusiests...

It all started after i put a GT2876 onto my rb20 with a few other goodies, then just before i got it tuned i did a quick compression test... 150 across the board...until i hit number 5, which was 95. put some oil into the cylinder and i then got 195 in cylinder 1... which told me the rings wernt in 100% working order and number 5 valve was leaking. which...from a 18yr old RB20 with 212,000 on it thats never let me down before, i expected the results, just didnt want them.

so i decided to refresh the 20, worked out the costs, and thought it would be cheaper to just put a 25 in there... then got offered a RB25de out of a r32 for $500... then the RB25-30 work started :P

Here are the Parts iv got/ordered so far.

CP Pistons/Rings

Spool Rods/ ARP Rod bolts

Stainless Steel Valves

Ross Balancer

N1 Oil Pump

Geniun Nissan Headgasket (alot of people are refering back to these for there builds)

Tomie Valve Springs

Head has been preped, ported a fraction.

Tomie Oil Resprictors

Oil Collar

Im getting it balanced from the Balancer right to the Clutch.

Chambers will be CC'd.

Using ACL Race bearings as soon as i know what sizes i need.

i also have a microtech LTX12 with ignitors etc to run it all.

i dont make alot of money so i just been saving and buying the next parts il be needing in the build process, hence why i havnt looked into Fuel Set-up yet or Cam Gears/shafts.

the block goes to the machinests in a day or 2.

any extra info or questions will be greatly appreiciated, whats with this water gallery that doesnt get fully blocked or something?

Cheers

CJ

ps, il add more later :) thanks for reading

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/220157-cjs-engine-build/
Share on other sites

  • Replies 62
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

yeh il get pics ASAP.

what would people prefer out of the ORC clutch RMS is selling (twin plate, 709 version) or should i go the Exedy hyper twin from Kudos motorsport? anyone had experience with these clutchs?

Thanks

CJ

As far as I know, the ORC is slightly cheaper than the Exedy Hyper Twin. Im using the Exedy, and no complaints here definitely, but for some reason the pedal is slightly lighter with the ORC twin's ive driven.

That would just be because of a heavier or lighter pressure plate??

Just because the ORC is cheaper, doesnt mean its worse?? (asking a question, not trying to start a argument lol)

CJ

Warning to anyone... if you call jim berry, make sure you got some time to chat! lol. (as everyone told me)

he is making me a custom one now :O after i get the clutch then i can get the engine balanced :O

things move so slow with bigger engine builds :D

CJ

GEt pics i keen to watch this build too, they are so influential. i am re-doing an r32, not engine but damaged rear end i picked it up a few weeks back. anyone keen on a thread? (sorry to hi-jak)

has anyone got pics of a GT42R under the bonnet of a R32 with a 30bottom on it...? (has to be 30 bottom becuase of the height difference)

i can grab a brand new 42R for a good price (veeeery good) and im just wondering if il have enough room between the strut tower, tappet covers and the bonnet.

Cheers

CJ

ps, yeh NYTSKY i ran out of gas for my blow torch :D

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • just an update to this, poor man pays twice  Tried sanding down the pulleys but it didnt do the trick. Chucked another second hand alternator in the na car which I got for free off my mate and its fixed the squelling. Must have been unlucky with the bearings.    As for my turbo car, I managed to pick up a cwc rb alternator conversion bracket + LS alternator for 250 off marketplace, looked to be in really good nick. Installed it , started the car and its not charging the battery.... ( Im not good with auto elec stuff so im not sure if this was all I needed to do but I verified such by using a multimeter on the battery when the engine was running and I was only getting 12.2v )   I had to modify the earth strap for the new LS alternator , factory earth strap was a 10mm bolt which did not fit the bolt on the LS alternator which was double the size so I cut it off , went to repco bought some ring terminals that fit, crimped it onto the old earth strap and bolted it up to the alternator , started the car and same issue. Ran like shit and was reading 12.2 at the battery.  For a "plug and play" advertised kit thats not very plug and play but alas.  My question is , am I missing something ? Ive been reading that some people recommend upgrading the stock 80 amp alternator fuse to a 140 amp but I dont see how that would stop the alternator charging especially at idle not under load.  Regardless ive pulled it out and am going to get it bench tested by an auto elec tomorrow but it would be handy to know if ive missed something silly or have done something wrong.   
    • My wild guess is that you have popped off an intake pipe....check all of the hoses between the turbo and the throttle for splits or loose clamps.
    • Awesome, thanks for sharing!
    • To provide more specific help, more information is needed. What Android screen? What is its wiring diagram? Does the car's wiring have power at any required BAT and ACC wires, and is the loom's earth good?
    • So, now all you need to do is connect the 2 or 3x 12v feeds into the unit to permanent 12v, ACC 12V and IGN 12V that you can find in the spot behind the stereo, and the earth, and then it will switch on with the car.
×
×
  • Create New...