Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

I heard the the straight 6 is smoother running, and produces more low torque in the rev range than V6's...

I don't really know :S

What's better a V6 or a straight 6 and why?

Ok this may not be the most educated answer ever..but i would believe it depends on the actual motor...like i'm sure an RB26 would run differently to like an commonwhore motor

inline 6 and flat 6 engines are intrinsically balanced, so they run very smoothly. every other type of engine (until you get to 12 cylinders) is not balanced. balance shafts are installed next to the crank which offset this vibration but you can never do the job perfectly.

The torque curve has more to do with the other design aspects of the motor. You can design an inline-6 to have massive low-end torque (most serious diesel engines are inline-6).

after owning a RB25DET, and a 6A13TT, i'd say the straight 6 makes a better note, but the V6 is better in every other way.

the V6 has plenty of torque all through the range

That's not really a fair comparison, the Galant engine is a twin turbo which gives you more flexibility in how you develop boost (and by relation, torque). Also, Galants are rally cars.. where midrange torque is your bread and butter. Skylines are circuit cars, and it's all about top end on a circuit.

V6's have a much shorter crank, which should add to strength i think, but obviously theres alot of other factors which contribute to that too

V6's are also more compact, so they can fit into smaller cars, and theres some reason that they are better for emissions apparently.

Edited by VB-

generally inline 6s are cantered over to one side to allow better clearance and lower COG.

just FYI

Straight six is "simpler" too in that you don't need two sets of heads, etc (let's disregard VW's 15deg V6 for the timebeing as it's a cheater broken straight six anyway... lol)

They're different configurations so you're wasting your time seeing which is 'better'. They've both been around for many decades so obviously they both work effectively.

I like the I6 better for its smoothness, but i wouldn't knock a V6 based on that reason. Being behind an RB or a VQ engine, they both sound and rev great and both are torquey.

The torque curve has more to do with the other design aspects of the motor. You can design an inline-6 to have massive low-end torque (most serious diesel engines are inline-6).

Skylines are circuit cars, and it's all about top end on a circuit.

You can design an engine to do anything you want. The parameters between all engine components functions, cylinder head capability, use of forced induction, displacement, gear ratios, fuel maps etc. are so wide that a 4 cylinder can be built to outdo an I6. It depends on the engineering requirements.

And no, Skylines are road cars.

Depending on the circuit of course, midrange and torque are usually more important than top end. Torque pulls you through corners, and is what allows easier overtaking. What's 10,000RPM going to achieve over usable torque? Nothing, because top end RPM's are a measure of the engine's speed, not the maximum power available to pull you through a hairpin.

V6's have a much shorter crank, which should add to strength i think, but obviously theres alot of other factors which contribute to that too

How many RB cranks break?

generally inline 6s are cantered over to one side to allow better clearance and lower COG.

just FYI

Straight six is "simpler" too in that you don't need two sets of heads, etc (let's disregard VW's 15deg V6 for the timebeing as it's a cheater broken straight six anyway... lol)

Spot on. The COG is even better on a flat-6.

Yes, a V6 is more complex (in the number of parts anyway).

A v6 can produce more power then a strait 6 when modefied but the the strait 6 can hold power better then the v6 Example: Strait6 500hp V6 500hp the v6 would crack faster then the strait 6 would under havy driving.

They can both produce big power. No, they won't just crack because of their piston configuration. Detonation or an oil failure would be more likely to kill the engine rather than its shape. A conrod might crack from excessive heat/force, but that can happen on any overpowered engine.

But in saying that I6's are used more commonly for large industrial machinery. It's better balance, hence reduced vibration, makes it more suited to large power (esp. torque) applications. Think of trucks used for mining, carring thousands of tonnes of cargo. A V6's inherent configuration would be unsuitable in this regard.

To illustrate, think of a TOLL truck's 80L or 90L I6 engine used to ship packages interstate. The vibrations we feel in 2.6L engines are amplified greatly in a 90L engine. It's 34.5 times greater displacement, so imagine 34.5 times more vibration coming from your engine bay.

Then imagine you have a V6 in the same situation :P

Edited by R338OY

i don't really know which is better but here's some pics:

vg30dett in Z32:

CowraKarl.jpg

RB26 in Z32:

RB26Z.JPG

rb engine is longer, the radiator was moved further forward so there's going to be more weight further forward, not sure about the weight difference between vg30 and rb26 either. but much more room to work :D

A v6 can produce more power then a strait 6 when modefied but the the strait 6 can hold power better then the v6 Example: Strait6 500hp V6 500hp the v6 would crack faster then the strait 6 would under havy driving.

Great. Thanks for that gem of knowledge.

And no, Skylines are road cars.

The "GT" designation stands for "Gran Turismo" or "Grand Touring". Skylines were built as enduro racers, not dropping down to the shops to get some milk. A Hyundai Excel is a road car.

What's 10,000RPM going to achieve over usable torque?

What's usable torque going to achieve if you have to change up a gear at 3,000RPM? When was the last time you were out-dragged by a bus? Why do you think F1 cars rev to the sky rather than rely on bottom end torque?

It's all down to gearing. It's better to make torque at high RPM because you can be in a lower gear, and the effective torque at the wheels is better.

To illustrate, think of a TOLL truck's 80L or 90L I6 engine used to ship packages interstate. The vibrations we feel in 2.6L engines are amplified greatly in a 90L engine. It's 34.5 times greater displacement, so imagine 34.5 times more vibration coming from your engine bay.

90L engine? hahahaha.. you're kidding right. I think you mean 9.0L. Most prime movers use turbo diesels around the 9.0L mark (eg Volvo FM-9 prime mover is 9.4L turbo diesel). Don't pull figures out of your arse.

I think I'm done in this thread.

You cant really say which one is "better"

V6 is more compact, but is more complicated (ie complex intake, double the cams)

Straight 6 is simpler but has a longer crank, so more load on the end furthest from the flywheel but is smoother and has some natural balance.

Its not the configuration of the cylinders that makes or breaks an engine it is how it is designed. Bore, stroke, compression ratio, head configuration etc has a far greater affect on an engine than whether its a V or straight.

There are examples of good and bad I6 and V6 engines

And to Kinks,

the reason F1 cars rev to 18k+rpm is that they are limited to a very small capacity. Being as Kw = (Nm x rpm)/9550, for these little (ie. not very torquey) engines to make the power levels that they do, they need to rev like crazy and be designed to make what little torque they can at those high revs.

And you are right, it is all down to gearing, but that same principle applys to low revving cars aswell, just look at the Audi diesle Le Mans race car, it wont even pull 5,000rpm, but thanks to clever gearing the thing is increadibly fast. But this is all off topic.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • As discussed in the previous post, the bushes in the 110 needed replacing. I took this opportunity to replace the castor bushes, the front lower control arm, lower the car and get the alignment dialled in with new tyres. I took it down to Alignment Motorsports on the GC to get this work done and also get more out of the Shockworks as I felt like I wasn't getting the full use out of them.  To cut a very long story short, it ended up being the case the passenger side castor arm wouldn't accept the brand new bush as the sleeve had worn badly enough to the point you could push the new bush in by hand and completely through. Trying a pair of TRD bushes didn't fix the issue either (I had originally gone with Hardrace bushes). We needed to urgently source another castor arm, and thankfully this was sourced and the guys at the shop worked on my car until 7pm on a Saturday to get everything done. The car rides a lot nicer now with the suspension dialled in properly. Lowered the car a little as well to suit the lower profile front tyres, and just bring the car down generally. Eternally thankful for the guys down at the shop to get the car sorted, we both pulled big favours from our contacts to get it done on the Saturday.  Also plugged in the new Stedi foglights into the S15, and even from a quick test in the garage I'm keen to see how they look out on the road. I had some concerns about the length of the LED body and whether it'd fit in the foglight housing but it's fine.  I've got a small window coming up next month where I'll likely get a little paint work done on the 110 to remove the rear wing, add a boot wing and roof wing, get the side skirt fixed up and colour match the little panel on the tail lights so that I can install some badges that I've kept in storage. I'm also tempted to put in a new pair of headlights on the 110.  Until then, here's some more pictures from Easter this year. 
    • I would put a fuel pressure gauge between the filter and the fuel rail, see if it's maintaining good fuel pressure at idle going up to the point when it stalls. Do you see any strange behavior in commanded fuel leading up to the point when it stalls? You might have to start going through the service manual and doing a long list of sensor tests if it's not the fuel system for whatever reason.
    • Hi,  Just joined the forum so I could share my "fix" of this problem. Might be of use to someone. Had the same hunting at idle issue on my V36 with VQ35HR engine after swapping the engine because the original one got overheated.  While changing the engine I made the mistake of cleaning the throttle bodies and tried all the tricks i could find to do a throttle relearn with no luck. Gave in and took it to a shop and they couldn't sort it. Then took it to my local Nissan dealership and they couldn't get it to idle properly. They said I'd need to replace the throttle bodies and the ecu probably costing more than the car is worth. So I had the idea of replacing the carbon I cleaned out with a thin layer of super glue and it's back to normal idle now. Bit rough but saved the car from the wreckers 🤣
    • After my last update, I went ahead with cleaning and restoring the entire fuel system. This included removing the tank and cleaning it with the Beyond Balistics solution, power washing it multiple times, drying it thoroughly, rinsing with IPA, drying again with heat gun and compressed air. Also, cleaning out the lines, fuel rail, and replacing the fuel pump with an OEM-style one. During the cleaning process, I replaced several hoses - including the breather hose on the fuel tank, which turned out to be the cause of the earlier fuel leak. This is what the old fuel filter looked like: Fuel tank before cleaning: Dirty Fuel Tank.mp4   Fuel tank after cleaning (some staining remains): Clean Fuel Tank.mp4 Both the OEM 270cc and new DeatschWerks 550cc injectors were cleaned professionally by a shop. Before reassembling everything, I tested the fuel flow by running the pump output into a container at the fuel filter location - flow looked good. I then fitted the new fuel filter and reassembled the rest of the system. Fuel Flow Test.mp4 Test 1 - 550cc injectors Ran the new fuel pump with its supplied diagonal strainer (different from OEM’s flat strainer) and my 550cc injectors using the same resized-injector map I had successfully used before. At first, it idled roughly and stalled when I applied throttle. Checked the spark plugs and found that they were fouled with carbon (likely from the earlier overly rich running when the injectors were clogged). After cleaning the plugs, the car started fine. However, it would only idle for 30–60 seconds before stalling, and while driving it would feel like a “fuel cut” after a few seconds - though it wouldn’t fully stall. Test 2 – Strainer swap Suspecting the diagonal strainer might not be reaching the tank bottom, I swapped it for the original flat strainer and filled the tank with ~45L of fuel. The issue persisted exactly the same. Test 3 – OEM injectors To eliminate tuning variables, I reinstalled the OEM 270cc injectors and reverted to the original map. Cleaned the spark plugs again just in-case. The stalling and “fuel cut” still remained.   At this stage, I suspect an intermittent power or connection fault at the fuel pump hanger, caused during the cleaning process. This has led me to look into getting Frenchy’s fuel hanger and replacing the unit entirely. TL;DR: Cleaned and restored the fuel system (tank, lines, rail, pump). Tested 550cc injectors with the same resized-injector map as before, but the car stalls at idle and experiences what feels like “fuel cut” after a few seconds of driving. Swapped back to OEM injectors with original map to rule out tuning, but the issue persists. Now suspecting an intermittent power or connection fault at the fuel pump hanger, possibly cause by the cleaning process.  
×
×
  • Create New...