Jump to content
SAU Community

Vh45de Into A R32 Or S13

Ben Dony

By Ben Dony,
in Engines & Forced Induction

 Share

Recommended Posts

infamous_t Veteran

infamous_t

Posted
Posted

Go a VH41DE, superior motor, except the 0.4 displacement... the blocks are the same so you can "stroke" it back to 4.5 using the VH45 inners.

If you do get a VH45, for the love of god don't get the USDM version, its a bucket of shit compared to JDM.

R32 would be better choice as it would give better weight distibution than the rb, would leave you with more room to work on the bitch to :(

But the VH45 is about the same weight as an SR20DET if you include the turbo running gear, so the weight itself doesn't change just where it sits.

Oh yeah, good luck with the bonnet :D

http://forums.nicoclub.com/zeroforum?id=193 is your new friend.

Shaun O Enthusiast

Shaun O

Posted
Posted

I dunno how hard it is to find a RHD VH45, you will have issues with a few things with the LHD afaik, not really worth it

You can use VH45 pistons and crankshaft in the VH41 to bring it to 4.5L

VH engines are all alloy so nice and light, very over engineered engines. You will probably have to go for custom pistons if you want to put anymore than 6psi boost in it but I think the VQ30DET pistons may be a good swap but unconfirmed I believe

Other than that you would just need custom engine mounts, adapter plate for gearbox (VG, RB, W57, R154 all solid choices), custom driveshaft, custom exhaust manifold and there will be a few other bits and pieces that you may need but nothing too major

People have done twin turbo VH45 into S13 so it's definitely do-able

Eug Grand Master

Eug

Posted
Posted
i'm lookin at puttin a infinity v8 into a r32 or a s13

im buildin a drift car..

is this goin to be hard to do???????

you'll want some decent revs for drift. probably best to rebuild it also.

hard... yes

yea i would like to put one in a r32.

i may twin turbo it or supercharge it. i dunno yet.

thnx for all ur help ppl

wouldn't be my pick of motor for drifting.

  • 1 month later...
MBS206 Grand Master

MBS206

Posted
Posted
you'll want some decent revs for drift. probably best to rebuild it also.

hard... yes

wouldn't be my pick of motor for drifting.

You don't need revs for drifting!

If you needed all these "revs" why would the Holden V8 boys be able to compete so well, considering they only rev to 5500RPM...

An engine that produces torque, with a well matched gearbox and diff is what you need.

Think about it, the V8s frying tyres in second gear at 5500RPM odd, are spinning the rears at 130KM/h...

Stock skyline, with a stock gearbox/diff is revving at 7000RPM and only spinning the tyres at 100km/h, match the skyline motor to a V8 gearbox/diff, and what happens, it dies in the ass in 2nd, because all of a sudden, at peak revs, it's attempting to spin the wheels at 165km/h... Affectively attempting to use 3rd gear! But the Skyline (And most Jap cars for that fact) are setup to produce power by the way of revs, not torque.

  • 10 months later...
farch Collaborator

farch

Posted
Posted (edited)

i've been looking into vh45 converion into a 180sx, the biggest problem i can see is with the exhaust manifolds. the engine being DOHC makes the heads wide and the fact it's 90 degree v8 mean that modifying the chassis os needed to get to the exhaust manifold to fit.

by the way if anyones got info on what the clearances are and if there is enough room for block a hugging exhaust as iam very interested in this as i am very keen in this sort converion. as my 180 will end up with either a VQ30DET or VH45 and if all else fails RB26

by the way according to my engineer the maximum na engine you can put in an S13 is just over 5L and 4L for a turbo. so theres no sortage of choice.

Edited by farch
aphid Proficient

aphid

Posted
Posted

There is alot of misinformation in this thread already, so I wouldn't be listening too much to what has been said...

It's probably best to head to the NICO forums VH section -> http://forums.nicoclub.com/zeroforum?id=193

It's the bible :devil:

  • 1 year later...
mike831 Newbie

mike831

Posted
Posted
Go a VH41DE, superior motor, except the 0.4 displacement... the blocks are the same so you can "stroke" it back to 4.5 using the VH45 inners.

If you do get a VH45, for the love of god don't get the USDM version, its a bucket of shit compared to JDM.

R32 would be better choice as it would give better weight distibution than the rb, would leave you with more room to work on the bitch to :laugh:

Hate to dig up old threads like this, but this has shown up prominently on several google searches I've made, and I just wanted to try and clarify on this so the wrong information isn't spread around =P

Now I'm not a VH45 or JDM VH41 expert, but I have done a ton of research into VH45's for several swap I would like to complete (one of which happens to be into an older skyline, has to be 25 years or older to import to the states, and the VH45 would be a legal engine for a swap =D).

The USDM VH45DE is hardly a bucket of shit compared the JDM version. Now the comparison of a USDM VH41DE to a JDM VH41DE, the description would be very accurate. The only thing the JDM VH41 has over the USDM VH45 is the addition of a duplex timing chain, so the heads are a little bit better, but not by a whole lot of difference. Now granted down under, the availability of the VH41 should warrant the simple building of the VH41 using the rotating assembly of the VH45.

The USDM VH41DE is a fairly poor engine however compared to both the VH45DE and the JDM VH41. The USDM model did not have a crankshaft girdle, poor flowing heads, poor exhaust manifold design, and is generally much more poorly designed engine compared to the other two engines.

Again, I apologize greatly for being a grave digger, and it is certainly not something I do often =P I just wanted to say something as this thread has shown up in several of my google searches and I figured it might be worth noting that this information is not exactly correct!

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • sunsetR33
      Unpeeling the Orange

      By sunsetR33 · Posted

      Update 3: Hi all It's been a while. Quite a lot of things happened in the meantime, among other things the car is (almost) back together and ready to be started again. Things that I fixed or changed: Full turbo removal, fitting back the OEM turbo oil hardlines. Had to do quite a bit of research and parts shopping to get every last piece that I need and make it work with the GT2860 turbos, but it does work and is not hard to do. Proves that the previous owner(s) just did not want to. While I was there I set the preload for the wastegates to 0,9bar to hopefully make it easier for the tuner to hit the 370hp I need for the legal inspections that will follow later on. Boost can always go up if necessary. Fitted a AN10 line from the catch can to the intake hose to make the catchcan and hopefully the cam covers a slight vacuum to have less restrictive oil returns from the head and not have mud build up as harshly in the lines and catch can. Removed the entire front interior just shy of the dashboard itself to clean up some of the absolutely horrendous wiring, (hopefully) fix the bumpy tacho and put in LED bulbs while I was there. Also put in bulbs where there was none before, like the airbag one. I also used that chance to remove the LED rpm gauge on the steering column, which was also wired in absolute horror show fashion. Moved the 4in1 Prosport gauge from sitting in front of the OEM oil pressure gauge to the center console vents, I used a 3D printed vent piece to hold that gauge there. The HKB steering wheel boss was likely on incorrectly as I sometimes noticed the indicator reset being uneven for left vs. right. In the meantime also installed an airbag delete resistor, as one should. Installed Cube Speed premium short shifter. Feels pretty nice, hope it'll work great too when I actually get to drive. Also put on a fancy Dragon Ball shift knob, cause why not. My buddy was kind enough to weld the rust hole in the back, it was basically rusted through in the lowermost corner of the passenger side trunk area where the wheel arch, trunk panel and rear quarter all meet. Obviously there is still a lot of crustiness in various areas but as long as it's not rusted out I'll just treat and isolate the corrosion and pretend it's not there. Also had to put down a new ground wire for the rear subframe as the original one was BARELY there. Probably a bit controversial depending on who you ask about this... but I ended up just covering the crack in the side of the engine block, the one above the oil feed, with JB Weld. I used a generous amount and roughed up the whole area with a Dremel before, so I hope this will hold the coolant where it should be for the foreseeable future. Did a cam cover gasket job as the half moons were a bit leaky, and there too one could see the people who worked on this car before me were absolute tools. The same half moons were probably used like 3 times without even cleaning the old RTV off. Dremeled out the inside of the flange where the turbine housing mates onto the exhaust manifolds so the diameter matches, as the OEM exhaust manifolds are even narrower than the turbine housings as we all know. Even if this doesn't do much, I had them out anyways, so can't harm. Ideally one would port-match both the turbo and the manifold to the gasket size but I really didn't feel up to disassembling the turbine housings. Wrapped turbo outlet dumps in heat wrap band. Will do the frontpipe again as well as now the oil leak which promted me to tear apart half the engine in the first place is hopefully fixed. Fitted an ATI super damper to get rid of the worn old harmonic balancer. Surely one of the easiest and most worth to do mods. But torquing that ARP bolt to spec was a bitch without being able to lock the flywheel. Did some minor adjustments in the ECU tables to change some things I didn't like, like the launch control that was ALWAYS active. Treated rusty spots and surface corrosion on places I could get to and on many spots under the car, not pretty or ideal but good enough for now. Removed the N1 rear spats and the carbon surrounding for the tailpipe to put them back on with new adhesive as the old one was lifting in many spots, not pretty. Took out the passenger rear lamp housing... what do you know. Amateur work screwed me again here as they were glued in hard and removing it took a lot of force, so I broke one of the housing bolts off. And when removing the adhesive from the chassis the paint came right off too. Thankfully all the damaged area won't be visible later, but whoever did the very limited bodywork on this car needs to have their limbs chopped off piece by piece.   Quite a list if I do say so myself, but a lot of time was spent just discovering new shit that is wrong with the car and finding a solution or parts to fix it. My last problem that I now have the headache of dealing with is that the exhaust studs on the turbo outlets are M10x1.25 threaded, but the previous owner already put on regular M10 nuts so the threads are... weird. I only found this out the hard way. So now I will just try if I can in any way fit the front pipe regardless, if not I'll have to redo the studs with the turbos installed. Lesson learned for the future: Redo ALL studs you put your hands on, especially if they are old and the previous owners were inept maniacs. Thanks for reading if you did, will update when the engine runs again. Hope nothing breaks or leaks and I can do a test drive.
    • Kapr
      What brakes on R34 GTT(Europe)

      By Kapr · Posted

      No those pads are DBA too  but they have colors too. I look at the and imo the green "street" are the best.
    • wizlb
      Who has a Infiniti Q60, Q50 (V37)?

      By wizlb · Posted

      I’m not sure what happened I told them about sonic tunes free OTS tune and the next the I know .. I was booted..   To funny 
    • Kinkstaah
      Starting again

      By Kinkstaah · Posted

      Yea - I mean I've seen my fuel pump which is decades old and uh, while I'm not saying this with real knowledge... but I sure get the ick at using anything in the fuel system that produced the state of that pump. Many years ago I went through multiple pumps (and strainers) before I dropped the tank to clean it out with extreme violence. I'm talking the car would do maybe 50km before coming to a halt, which resulted in me cleaning out the filter with some brake cleaner and going on my way. None of my stuff ever looked like what came out of your fuel tank. I don't think I'd be happy with it unless every single component was replaced (or at least checked/cleaned/confirmed to be clean here).
    • GTSBoy
      What brakes on R34 GTT(Europe)

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      I'm not going to recommend an EBC pad. I don't like them. Just about anything else would suit me better. I've been using Intima pads for a while now.
×
×
  • Create New...