Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Had 350awkw whilst on stock bottom end, when we pulled it down (due to oil pump failure) it was still in perfect condition

Don't doubt that you could make over 400kw, but I'd imagine you'd be running some risk

Edited by Morgs

This is a question that often belongs in the 'say what I want to hear' / ' I can't afford to run the powerful car' category

If you want to rely on the old stock engine in the old stock car then the limit is really around/just above where the stock turbos run out of puff or the size of your bank balance. You see, if it matters that the motor breaks then you have the lower limit of power. Alternatively the question is answered; power level = 'lets see if it breaks' when you have the finance not to care.

Someone I know ran a 10 with an unopened old stocker. If you have another motor waiting and own a car trailer then you have nothing to worry about.

The ideal is to look at 300rwkw or under and do as much as you can to make that power with the least strain on the old motor.

Further up the power level is a list of stock bits that will also fail according to application.

Edited by rev210

You have a R32 GTR.

Motor is what, 16 years old now at a minimum.

What MAX power can you make? Probably over 500rwkw for one dyno run.

Reliably however, 300-330rwkw would be a pretty good limit to set given the age of the motor

Other than that, its the age old 'how long is a piece of string'. Some fail at less, some more.

If you cant afford the rebuild, then dont chase power (rebuild = min $12,000 round trip including turbos etc etc)

i would say adding another 100 would be safe. i am conservative with rb26 cos i think with my pockets.

i have seen them with around 400 but its not an everyday car its driven once a month maybe. at 300alkw u have a very zippy car on the street and running very little risk.

With the stock turbos you should be able to make about 240rwkw without blowing the ceramic turbine wheels to bits.

Or go for some GT/SS's and provided you have computer/injectors/fuel pump you could be looking at 300-320rwkw on a reasonably safe 1.2bar.

With the stock turbos you should be able to make about 240rwkw without blowing the ceramic turbine wheels to bits.

Or go for some GT/SS's and provided you have computer/injectors/fuel pump you could be looking at 300-320rwkw on a reasonably safe 1.2bar.

With 1 bar boost on stock turbos, i made 265rwkw.

How long the stock bottom will last depends on how well the engine was maintained.

With 1 bar boost on stock turbos, i made 265rwkw.

How long the stock bottom will last depends on how well the engine was maintained.

similar here...made 287KW at SAU dyno comp with completely stock long engine and turbo's on 1 bar

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Latest Posts

    • Haha, i kow right? Could have bought so many cars for the same amount of money (or less) but driving Unicorn gives you at least +1mln to style 😅. Like wise man said "life's to short to drink cheap wine and drive boring cars" 😉
    • Newbie here, proud owner of an Autech 260RS. I'm on the hunt for wiring diagrams specific to the 260RS, particularly S1. I've ran my eyes through R33, R34 Diagrams, there are some similarities, however continue to find incorrect wire colours and pins on connectors in the 33,34 diagrams.   I was hoping someone could point me in the right direction? I'd be happy to pay for the originals in Japanese. I can translate them, at least they would be accurate.   Any help please would be greatly appreciated, never heard an RB26DETT before let alone driven one, and I've got a spaghetti monster of goodness to sort out.   Cheers Benny  
    • Hey all  im wondering if you can help me please I have put a rb20 box in my r34 gtt as my auto packed up and a friend had a spare box I know it’s not ideal but it will get me up and running for now. we have done the conversation and everything is working great but my Speedo we got a s13 speed sensor but my Speedo reads double now and I bought a speed converter but still not having any luck.  so I thought I’ll reach out and pick your brains  any help would be appreciated please as I wanna drive my car again 
    • Drain it. I got official Matic D but you can get whatever is listed as Matic D compatible.
    • Thanks guys,  Yeah I should at least have them dynoed, at least then I know what I've got as a starting point.  The springs on these are hard as rocks. I vaguely remember Russman saying he was going to sell the shocks to me with the rocks fitted, as he was keeping the softer springs for his new setup.  I didn't click at the time but of course that was to let me know the shock/spring wouldn't be matched.  I also remember pricing up new springs around 2014-15, but, house, money etc. it never happened. So that was another reason to have them rebuilt. I have rebuilt the forks on many motorcycles so I think I could handle the seals on these easily enough, but getting the valving right would be a rabbit hole I cbf exploring.  Duncan, interesting to hear RP was tuning these back then. I might give them a call.  In the mean time I have been busy fitting sway bars. The Whiteline rear sway bar I purchased 15 years ago finally got fitted, along with the Whiteline front bar that showed up last week. Just waiting on new links for the front sway bar to finish that off.  And my spare set of advan AVS VS5's should be back from the powder coaters in a Pearl White finish sometime this week, with a set of Hankook RS4's lined up for fitting.  And then I just have all the suspension bushes to do. A comprehensive kit is on the way... Lots to do before the Ararat hill climb. Cheers guys 🍻   
×
×
  • Create New...