Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Had 350awkw whilst on stock bottom end, when we pulled it down (due to oil pump failure) it was still in perfect condition

Don't doubt that you could make over 400kw, but I'd imagine you'd be running some risk

Edited by Morgs

This is a question that often belongs in the 'say what I want to hear' / ' I can't afford to run the powerful car' category

If you want to rely on the old stock engine in the old stock car then the limit is really around/just above where the stock turbos run out of puff or the size of your bank balance. You see, if it matters that the motor breaks then you have the lower limit of power. Alternatively the question is answered; power level = 'lets see if it breaks' when you have the finance not to care.

Someone I know ran a 10 with an unopened old stocker. If you have another motor waiting and own a car trailer then you have nothing to worry about.

The ideal is to look at 300rwkw or under and do as much as you can to make that power with the least strain on the old motor.

Further up the power level is a list of stock bits that will also fail according to application.

Edited by rev210

You have a R32 GTR.

Motor is what, 16 years old now at a minimum.

What MAX power can you make? Probably over 500rwkw for one dyno run.

Reliably however, 300-330rwkw would be a pretty good limit to set given the age of the motor

Other than that, its the age old 'how long is a piece of string'. Some fail at less, some more.

If you cant afford the rebuild, then dont chase power (rebuild = min $12,000 round trip including turbos etc etc)

i would say adding another 100 would be safe. i am conservative with rb26 cos i think with my pockets.

i have seen them with around 400 but its not an everyday car its driven once a month maybe. at 300alkw u have a very zippy car on the street and running very little risk.

With the stock turbos you should be able to make about 240rwkw without blowing the ceramic turbine wheels to bits.

Or go for some GT/SS's and provided you have computer/injectors/fuel pump you could be looking at 300-320rwkw on a reasonably safe 1.2bar.

With the stock turbos you should be able to make about 240rwkw without blowing the ceramic turbine wheels to bits.

Or go for some GT/SS's and provided you have computer/injectors/fuel pump you could be looking at 300-320rwkw on a reasonably safe 1.2bar.

With 1 bar boost on stock turbos, i made 265rwkw.

How long the stock bottom will last depends on how well the engine was maintained.

With 1 bar boost on stock turbos, i made 265rwkw.

How long the stock bottom will last depends on how well the engine was maintained.

similar here...made 287KW at SAU dyno comp with completely stock long engine and turbo's on 1 bar

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Ha, well, it's been.... a bit of a journey. Things have taken much longer than I'd hoped. I'll probably put up a thread at some stage. Hopefully soon. The car's not done any kms since my update in June though, put it that way.
    • Here's the chart for fuel pressure vs. current draw, assuming your base fuel pressure is 3 bar and you run like 0.5bar boost on WOT, you should only momentarily hit 9amps here and there. (Ignore my prev post, I cannot read a chart these days it seems)
    • Those comp test results are not hideous. Whether they are accurate or not (ie, when that comp tester says 140 psi, is the real pressure120, 140 or 160?) is unknown to us. The state of the battery used to crank it over is unknown, etc etc. Many people around here would say that the absolute values and the spread are perfectly fine to just add boost and keep going. I personally would be happier with a narrower spread than that, but even the diff between 125 and 145 is not terrible. That one cylinder at 125 though, has probably copped some damage relative to the others. You should inspect the valves seeing as you've got it open. Do you know how to measure installed ring gaps? That, and an inspection of the rings themselves, is how you will determine whether they need to be replaced. If you're not good to do these things, take the block and the pistons and rings to a shop that is, and ask them for the go/no-go on them. Do the bores need a hone at all? If so, you might well be justified in getting some different pistons in order to get away from the ring supply problem. Whether you're happy to spend a lot more money right now, on more gear, rather than less money, but an amount that looks stupid given that you will only get a handful of rings in exchange for that money, is for you to decide.
    • also possibly backed up to my filler and shat down it! 🤣
    • Ok so i would love some advice here please, i purchased an R33 a few months back and its had a few mods done to the engine, its an RB25det running a Master ECU, 1200cc injectors, bigger turbo, oil cooler, oil filter relocation kit, Spool H-beam rods, acl/ross pistons. When i removed the motor from the vehicle (as its getting a respray) i thought i would compression test it and these are the following results. Cylinder 1-145psi, Cylinder 2-143psi, Cylinder 3-125psi, Cylinder 4-145psi, Cylinder 5-140psi, Cylinder 6-135psi this test was done with the motor on the ground and powering up the starter motor. I dropped the sump and found broken oil squirters on cylinder 3,5 and 6. I was told my rings are probably worn so i stripped the motor completely to get a new set of rings for it. The trouble is no one has these rings anywhere and they have to be custom made by Ross over in the states and will cost about $600+$200 delivery. My question is how can i tell if my rings are at fault and if they are still ok and is this price ok for a set of rings?
×
×
  • Create New...