Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Series 1 R33's are much faster and better looking. Hope that helps
i think he was joking....well lets hope so anyhow....

buy whatever you like the looks of more because when things come down to it...it wont really matter...

also with the luxury features.... inside of the s2 might be slightly nicer and may come with airbags etc but there are quiet a few s1's around with special features that the s2's dont have. but this also works vice versa :D

Personally i like the s1 more than the s2 and don't think its worth the extra $ a S2 goes for generally...

There is basically no inherant advantages mechanically in an s2, other than its 96 or newer newer, so probably less likelihood of problems. You might get an extra airbag and ABS *shrug*

Interior, slightly more modern looking seats but same basic thing in placement of switches, etc *shrug*. You wouldn't sit in one in other words and things its a totally different car.

Exterior - s2 more boxy looking at the front but i don't like those foglamp things on the stock bumper.. with a kit the s1 looks a bit curvier which i like..

If you can find a good series1 for the right price go for it, you'll probably get one with a few mods for the same price you'll get a stock S2. If you find a good priced S2 then go for that :P

If you like really newer style, and have some cash to spend ...get an R34 GTT rather than spending too much extra on a S2 R33

I feel that S1 velvety seat material is nicer than S2 cloth like material finish. However S2 steering wheel looks a bit nicer with airbag, but you can't change it as it will be illegal to remove airbag if you have one.

Front end wise, I agree the curvier S1 boot line looks better than the square-ish type of S2, plus most S2 rear wing also have that square style, rather than just sweeping low curve in S1.

But with S2 you get 2 airbags, and only late S1 you get driver's airbag. Plus many S2 comes with ABS (still a factory option) and only a few of S1 comes with ABS (although mine has ABS :D)

And if you love sunroof, you have a better chance finding an R33 with sunroof in S1 shape rather than S2. I dunno why but this was the case when I browse through dealers ads or jap auction data. Maybe cause Nissan didn't produce S2 as many as S1, therefore finding anything is a bit difficult due to limited qty.

I think the most important thing to note is that there are no "big" issues in the series 1 R33 that needed to be fixed for series 2. This is the huge difference between Skylines and local cars like Commodores and Falcons, where any series 1 is usually a "beta" version requiring lots of fixing for the series 2.

The series change in an R33 is almost entirely an upgrade of the look and standard features, but even then it's not necessarily a simple choice to buy one just because of those reasons. For example, many people prefer the curvier series 1 front bar, and many also prefer the more expensive velour interior of the series 1. I have heard a story that the interior of the series 2 was "downgraded" to cloth to help pay for the passenger air bag without jacking the price up.

It all comes down to your personal preference in the end, but one thing you CAN'T say about it like you can with Commodores and Falcons is "get the series 2 because the series 1 is full of bugs".

So just go for the look you want, the features you want, within your price range, and don't worry too much about any "issues" that might be associated with the earlier models because there are hardly any worth noting :D

Originally posted by antuanstylar

what about the half cast series 1 / series 2, the 95 model which has airbags different airflow meter to series 1, s2 wing but s1 mspec bumper?

Some would argue that the 95 model is the best of both worlds. I might be one of those people :P I know that when I was looking for an R33 I actively sought out a series 1 primarily for the velour interior. The airbag and higher spoiler was a bonus so for me the 95 model was the optimal model.

That aside, if I could have found a series 2 for the same price or only a little bit more I might have bought a series 2 instead. But only because it'd be a newer car. A year ago the price difference between series 1 and 2 was up to $10k (depending on where you looked) and it just wasn't worth the extra money for me. Today the price difference is much less so I would consider a series 2 depending on price.

Yep, I'm loving the Series 1.5 (best of both i reckon)

Different AFM, igniter module (basically, it's a seriesII engine) and it's still got the ceramic (not plastic) turbo wheels of the series 1.

i like the velour seats better, i have the s2 wing, but not the front bar... but i'll replace that with a 400R item anyway...

I have a late '95, and bought it without knowing it was a bit of a frankenstein... the ECU is sweet - seems to 'learn' a bit better than the S1 or S2s...

BTW, what should i look for with the AFM? How is it different? I know i don't have the igniter box on top of the coil cover, which supposedly makes it a S2 motor (correct??!?!)

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Good tips, will get on those tomorrow. When doing the maintenance I did move a few of those connectors around, and things that are old tend to not like moving around. (Like me).
    • Don't try it. It will be shit. Better chance of damaging the engine than gaining any knowledge about the old one. Maybe, but unlikely, especially if the O2 sensor is working. You can use NissDataScan to look at the stock ECU.   Cleaning the AFM is seldom necessary and seldom helps. The R35 coil & loom conversion should eliminate dud coils or plugs. But as you still have misses - look to the plug where the coil loom connects to the engine loom, and the CAS plug. Need quality connections there. Also look to injector plugs. And the AFM plug while you're at it. Also look to whether your injectors are clean and flowing evenly. Get them out and onto a testbench.
    • Good to know, I feel like I am in for a rollercoaster ride that looks like a sine wave. 
    • You'll fit right in. Acceptance is the first step.
    • Hey folks. I've been lurking and browsing the forum for a while, since I got into my head that I wanted a skyline. Having purchased an overpriced completely stock GTT, (only "mods" it has is HKS pod filter and catback) now that it became legal in the US, it was all glorious and sututu noises here and there. But then I wanted to do things right and went to do basic maintenance. After all the fluids, filters done, I did the spark plugs, that's when the problems started.. First the car started spluttering at around 4.5k RPM. Which I gapped down the new plugs and that solved the sputter there, but the car now always misfires at idle with pops when lifting off and shifting 2nd to 3rd. Similar to the issues in this recent thread. I've been banging my head against the wall, reading the threads here and trying suggestions for a couple months now, so decided to start this one to explain exactly what I tried and what is going on. The symptoms of the issue: Idle and low revs misfiring intermittently. You can hear the exhaust tone change and the shakes on the shifter knob. It happens frequently, but doesn't seem to have a rhythm to it. Pops when backing off throttle. It pops and or burbles almost feels like it spits fire when it pops. (Happens mostly in 3rd gear at around 2k RPM). When under load and after 6k RPM, it also pops when shifting from 2nd to 3rd. There's a ticking noise at around 2k RPM in 2nd gear going downhill, seems unrelated though but I am out of educated and downright dumb guesses. Not noticeable lack of power when putting the car into load. The attempted diagnosis and solutions: Unplugging coils when the car is running This did nothing to change the idling and tone shift for every cylinder. Checking the exhaust headers with thermometer They all are within what I'd say it is margin of error of the laser thermometer New spark plugs Tossed two new sets, copper, iridium and using the old ones, still misfiring, even re gapped to 0.8mm, still same thing. MAF cleaned with the "specific" spray cleaner No changes in the issues what so ever. Brand new loom and r35 coil conversion (was going to add the r35 coils anyway) car runs arguably better, still misfires, but seems like does less frequently. Placebo? Code 21 now being thrown, thanks nissan gods. Removed the CAS to check the shaft for play or anything. CAS seems all fine, nothing that indicates any issue, visually speaking. Things to attempted next: Ordered a new MAF (chinesium from Amazon, to be able to return regardless of result). Fuel with proper gas, maybe it is this California water that they sell as gas that is to blame? Plugin the link ECU and check the info using the built in base map. Go back to BMW and eat my rob bearing breakfast without milky oil mixture.   Do any of you have experienced anything like this or have any suggestion?
×
×
  • Create New...