Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Series 1 R33's are much faster and better looking. Hope that helps
i think he was joking....well lets hope so anyhow....

buy whatever you like the looks of more because when things come down to it...it wont really matter...

also with the luxury features.... inside of the s2 might be slightly nicer and may come with airbags etc but there are quiet a few s1's around with special features that the s2's dont have. but this also works vice versa :D

Personally i like the s1 more than the s2 and don't think its worth the extra $ a S2 goes for generally...

There is basically no inherant advantages mechanically in an s2, other than its 96 or newer newer, so probably less likelihood of problems. You might get an extra airbag and ABS *shrug*

Interior, slightly more modern looking seats but same basic thing in placement of switches, etc *shrug*. You wouldn't sit in one in other words and things its a totally different car.

Exterior - s2 more boxy looking at the front but i don't like those foglamp things on the stock bumper.. with a kit the s1 looks a bit curvier which i like..

If you can find a good series1 for the right price go for it, you'll probably get one with a few mods for the same price you'll get a stock S2. If you find a good priced S2 then go for that :P

If you like really newer style, and have some cash to spend ...get an R34 GTT rather than spending too much extra on a S2 R33

I feel that S1 velvety seat material is nicer than S2 cloth like material finish. However S2 steering wheel looks a bit nicer with airbag, but you can't change it as it will be illegal to remove airbag if you have one.

Front end wise, I agree the curvier S1 boot line looks better than the square-ish type of S2, plus most S2 rear wing also have that square style, rather than just sweeping low curve in S1.

But with S2 you get 2 airbags, and only late S1 you get driver's airbag. Plus many S2 comes with ABS (still a factory option) and only a few of S1 comes with ABS (although mine has ABS :D)

And if you love sunroof, you have a better chance finding an R33 with sunroof in S1 shape rather than S2. I dunno why but this was the case when I browse through dealers ads or jap auction data. Maybe cause Nissan didn't produce S2 as many as S1, therefore finding anything is a bit difficult due to limited qty.

I think the most important thing to note is that there are no "big" issues in the series 1 R33 that needed to be fixed for series 2. This is the huge difference between Skylines and local cars like Commodores and Falcons, where any series 1 is usually a "beta" version requiring lots of fixing for the series 2.

The series change in an R33 is almost entirely an upgrade of the look and standard features, but even then it's not necessarily a simple choice to buy one just because of those reasons. For example, many people prefer the curvier series 1 front bar, and many also prefer the more expensive velour interior of the series 1. I have heard a story that the interior of the series 2 was "downgraded" to cloth to help pay for the passenger air bag without jacking the price up.

It all comes down to your personal preference in the end, but one thing you CAN'T say about it like you can with Commodores and Falcons is "get the series 2 because the series 1 is full of bugs".

So just go for the look you want, the features you want, within your price range, and don't worry too much about any "issues" that might be associated with the earlier models because there are hardly any worth noting :D

Originally posted by antuanstylar

what about the half cast series 1 / series 2, the 95 model which has airbags different airflow meter to series 1, s2 wing but s1 mspec bumper?

Some would argue that the 95 model is the best of both worlds. I might be one of those people :P I know that when I was looking for an R33 I actively sought out a series 1 primarily for the velour interior. The airbag and higher spoiler was a bonus so for me the 95 model was the optimal model.

That aside, if I could have found a series 2 for the same price or only a little bit more I might have bought a series 2 instead. But only because it'd be a newer car. A year ago the price difference between series 1 and 2 was up to $10k (depending on where you looked) and it just wasn't worth the extra money for me. Today the price difference is much less so I would consider a series 2 depending on price.

Yep, I'm loving the Series 1.5 (best of both i reckon)

Different AFM, igniter module (basically, it's a seriesII engine) and it's still got the ceramic (not plastic) turbo wheels of the series 1.

i like the velour seats better, i have the s2 wing, but not the front bar... but i'll replace that with a 400R item anyway...

I have a late '95, and bought it without knowing it was a bit of a frankenstein... the ECU is sweet - seems to 'learn' a bit better than the S1 or S2s...

BTW, what should i look for with the AFM? How is it different? I know i don't have the igniter box on top of the coil cover, which supposedly makes it a S2 motor (correct??!?!)

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I ordered a GSP Front R/H Axle from here - https://justjap.com/products/gsp-premium-front-driveshaft-r-h-nissan-r32-r33-r34-skyline-gtr-stagea-4wd#description It lasted around a year before one of the boots blew out. I'm lowered, but I have GKTech roll center adjusters. One year seems a little premature. I think I'm going to spend the extra money on an OEM cv axle this time. This website - https://tfaspeed.com/collections/nissan-stagea-wgnc34-x-four-parts/products/nissan-stagea-awc34-260rs-rb26-right-front-axle-drive-assembly Makes it sound like the readily available OEM CV axle will only fit 11.1999 Stagea and up (mine is a 2.1997 S1). The JustJap listing didn't mention any years or anything for the GSP axle. Amayama shows '11.1999' and up as well for that part number. As well as 'plastic boot type'. See attached picture. So I guess my question is, does that axle (39100-23U60) really only fit S2 Stagea? It's the front driver side. If it does, I'd love to buy that instead of rolling the dice on another GSP. I've found that OEM one cheaper here: https://www.partsfornissans.com/oem-parts/nismo-jdm-r32-r33-r34-skyline-gtr-r32-gts4-right-front-axle-3910023u60 and here https://www.nissanparts.cc/oem-parts/nismo-shaft-ft-drive-3910023u60 Just a little confused because the JapSpeed listing for the GSP front driver axle doesn't mention any specific years or anything and it fit my S1 Stagea fine. So will 39100-23U60 fit my S1 Stagea even though technically it says '11.1999' and up? What would have changed? Thanks.  
    • Thanks for the info. The only "Issue" I've had with the shifter is I always found the throw between 4th and 6th gear too close. I'm always worried to shift into 4th accidently and sending my motor to the moon. Adam LZ recently came out with a video and stated Serialnine revised their shifters to correct this and will change all the revised parts for 150$. Strangely enough, I contacted Serialnine right after and they denied it and said it's bullshit. I found that strange as he's a distributer. I'll keep this forum post updated on that saga.
    • Yep that is correct. It allows you to adjust the short throw range from what I can tell
    • Car has been running great, I've put about 300km's of break in time on it. First thing that stands out with properly sealing rings is no more noticeable crankcase smell coming out of my catch can. This may seem insignificant, but the constant smell while driving around was infuriating. It's also nice to see my oil level remain stable. Two new issues have developed that I only noticed this weekend though. There's a very noticeable driveline vibration past 100kmh. I only noticed it now as I've been babying it under 100kmh in the backroads. This comes as no surprise as I'm running a one-piece shaft, and I paid zero attention to my driveshaft angle when I put everything back in. I also have a fair bit of voltage drop on hot starts. The starter audibly is forcing. No issues on cold start though. I must not have removed all the paint under my main block ground during assembly. I'll try and take care of both those issues this week once the kids are asleep.  I also received all the parts I was missing for my direct port setup. I will hopefully have pictures of that up soon. I'm hoping to get back on the dyno the week of June 30th as I'll be on vacation. I'm confident I should be able to make north of 500rwkw on pump gas and WMI. I'll go back again later this summer with E98, but I want to confirm my ethanol content sensor is working properly first. I've never seen it read anything but 11%. This makes sense for our 10% ethanol content pump gas here, but I would expect the occasional movement between fill ups. 
    • 75% complete. Will now need to get a new axle with 5x114.3 hubs and then figure out how to customize some mudguards for it once the wheels are on.
×
×
  • Create New...