Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

hey guys,

i've had a safc in my car piggy back off the standard ecu for a year or so.

so 2 weeks ago i blew my turbo, the tune got a bit screwed up, but the standard ecu manage to sort the problem out it self. allowing the car to still be drivable, but just no boost and chews a bit more petrol.

due to a turbo upgrade, i purchased a apexi power fc, for rb25det.

ok i so took the standard ecu out, put the power fc in it's place, with the safc still piggy backing off the power fc. make sense? (safc and power fc running at the same time)

the car starts fine, and is drivable.

ok so i took the safc out today, and now the car wont start with the power fc by itself?, so i plug the standard ecu back in and the car starts again.

hmm so the question is:

why does the car not start with the power fc in just by itself? (the car would start for like 1 second and then stall.)

is there something wrong with the power fc? I initiated the power fc a few times (reset it)

when i go into the setting of the power fc, like 30% of it is in japanese, it that normal? and on the 'program version' menu, it said rb25det version...so it should the right power fc right..?

is the blown turbo causing the power fc make the car stalk?

im just worried the power fc isnt the right version for my car (r33 gtst)...but the serial does have 'Pfc rb25 9706' on it - theoretically if it's the wrong version it shouldn't allow the car to start even if it had a safc...

cheers guys...i know i asked like 20 question just then

steve

Edited by ztuned
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/221200-power-fc-safc-ecu-wtf/
Share on other sites

remove the safc

reset the powerfc

turn the car to ACC but dont start it

check the basic sensors, disable the boost kit

start car and perform self idle procedure

dont touch the throttle during the self idle, if you do, it will kill the idle program, which gives it the instant-stall affect when you start it

it sounds like you have two issues - 1 remove the safc, 2 do the self idle learn correctly (it sounds like you arent resettting it)

if you reset it correctly and start it without reading the instructions the engine check light will be on

yeah some of the menu's are in japanese and you have the correct version

the powerfc faq has all of this covered already- you should take a few moments to read it (its in my signature)

Just check the AFM wire is plugged together aswell. One end of it goes to the safc, then from the safc back to the other end which sends the modified signal to the ecu. If ya dont reconnect it in the middle u dont have an afm signal and ya car wont start.

Did the same thing accidently once :)

I had the same problem with an rb25 powerfc. I had 2 both with rb25 serial. I reset both of them. 1 would start and drive fine. The other would stall at idle but would drive if you keep the revs above 2000rpm but under 2000rpm it would just die. Even if you reset them to factory defualt they dont seem to work the same.

Edited by Brokenz

yep. for sure I would say it's a wiring problem. Power FCs seem to be much more sensitve to poor wiring and particularly to poor earth/poor batt volatage. check and double check all the wiring that the SAFC was involved with.

yep, it turns our it was the safc wiring from before. the blue/orange wire was cut...had to reconnect it and the car started after disabling the boost control kit :D thanks guys

i did the 30mins idle procedure. i could hear something weird when the air con is on, revs jumps a little bit every now on then..but i think thats normal. i can also hear a 'zap zap zap' noise every 30secs when the air con is on. it's not knocking, i check the knock sensor on the pfc.

every time i hear the zapping noise, the air con sensor flashes on the pfc.

i took a pic when the aircon is on:

and are the other black dots meant to be there? keeping in mind that my car has a blown turbo...so it's shit lol

DSC00514.jpg

this is covered in the PFC FAQ, its in my signature

you should read it...

http://paulr33.skylinesaustralia.com/docs/...erfc-faq.htm#20

Sensor Check

MAIN MENU, ETC, SENSOR SW / CHECK Look for any sensor names highlighted in BLACK background or any flashing sensors. Any highlighted in black indicates a problem. The engine check light will also stay on if any of the sensors aren't working (highlighted in black). This is not to be confused with the black DOT switch on / off sensors.

sensor-explain.jpg

so in your screenshot we can see

NTR is on - gearbox is in neutral

IGN is on - ignition is on

A/C is on - air con pump is on

ECC is on - main engine control

F/P is on - fuel pump control

FP1 is off - fuel pump not currently running

02H is on - 02 sensor heater control

ACR is on - air con something

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • For DBA, check out their guide table here. https://dba.com.au/wp-content/uploads/2023/01/Direct_Replacement-Guide-2021.2.pdf   Additionally they have some other guides and info on how to make sure you choose the right pad.
    • Sorry, just assumed that talk of coloured pads meant EBC red/green/yellow/shit stuff. I don't know the DBA pads, but it's a reasonable bet that they will be OK. DBA make good stuff generally. Those 4000 series rotors I linked to are very good. I may well replace the RDA rotors I have with those when required.
    • The average previous owner for these cars were basically S-chassis owners in the US. Teenagers or teenager-adjacent. I often tell people that neglect is easier to fix than something that was actively "repaired" by previous owners.
    • Update 3: Hi all It's been a while. Quite a lot of things happened in the meantime, among other things the car is (almost) back together and ready to be started again. Things that I fixed or changed: Full turbo removal, fitting back the OEM turbo oil hardlines. Had to do quite a bit of research and parts shopping to get every last piece that I need and make it work with the GT2860 turbos, but it does work and is not hard to do. Proves that the previous owner(s) just did not want to. While I was there I set the preload for the wastegates to 0,9bar to hopefully make it easier for the tuner to hit the 370hp I need for the legal inspections that will follow later on. Boost can always go up if necessary. Fitted a AN10 line from the catch can to the intake hose to make the catchcan and hopefully the cam covers a slight vacuum to have less restrictive oil returns from the head and not have mud build up as harshly in the lines and catch can. Removed the entire front interior just shy of the dashboard itself to clean up some of the absolutely horrendous wiring, (hopefully) fix the bumpy tacho and put in LED bulbs while I was there. Also put in bulbs where there was none before, like the airbag one. I also used that chance to remove the LED rpm gauge on the steering column, which was also wired in absolute horror show fashion. Moved the 4in1 Prosport gauge from sitting in front of the OEM oil pressure gauge to the center console vents, I used a 3D printed vent piece to hold that gauge there. The HKB steering wheel boss was likely on incorrectly as I sometimes noticed the indicator reset being uneven for left vs. right. In the meantime also installed an airbag delete resistor, as one should. Installed Cube Speed premium short shifter. Feels pretty nice, hope it'll work great too when I actually get to drive. Also put on a fancy Dragon Ball shift knob, cause why not. My buddy was kind enough to weld the rust hole in the back, it was basically rusted through in the lowermost corner of the passenger side trunk area where the wheel arch, trunk panel and rear quarter all meet. Obviously there is still a lot of crustiness in various areas but as long as it's not rusted out I'll just treat and isolate the corrosion and pretend it's not there. Also had to put down a new ground wire for the rear subframe as the original one was BARELY there. Probably a bit controversial depending on who you ask about this... but I ended up just covering the crack in the side of the engine block, the one above the oil feed, with JB Weld. I used a generous amount and roughed up the whole area with a Dremel before, so I hope this will hold the coolant where it should be for the foreseeable future. Did a cam cover gasket job as the half moons were a bit leaky, and there too one could see the people who worked on this car before me were absolute tools. The same half moons were probably used like 3 times without even cleaning the old RTV off. Dremeled out the inside of the flange where the turbine housing mates onto the exhaust manifolds so the diameter matches, as the OEM exhaust manifolds are even narrower than the turbine housings as we all know. Even if this doesn't do much, I had them out anyways, so can't harm. Ideally one would port-match both the turbo and the manifold to the gasket size but I really didn't feel up to disassembling the turbine housings. Wrapped turbo outlet dumps in heat wrap band. Will do the frontpipe again as well as now the oil leak which promted me to tear apart half the engine in the first place is hopefully fixed. Fitted an ATI super damper to get rid of the worn old harmonic balancer. Surely one of the easiest and most worth to do mods. But torquing that ARP bolt to spec was a bitch without being able to lock the flywheel. Did some minor adjustments in the ECU tables to change some things I didn't like, like the launch control that was ALWAYS active. Treated rusty spots and surface corrosion on places I could get to and on many spots under the car, not pretty or ideal but good enough for now. Removed the N1 rear spats and the carbon surrounding for the tailpipe to put them back on with new adhesive as the old one was lifting in many spots, not pretty. Took out the passenger rear lamp housing... what do you know. Amateur work screwed me again here as they were glued in hard and removing it took a lot of force, so I broke one of the housing bolts off. And when removing the adhesive from the chassis the paint came right off too. Thankfully all the damaged area won't be visible later, but whoever did the very limited bodywork on this car needs to have their limbs chopped off piece by piece.   Quite a list if I do say so myself, but a lot of time was spent just discovering new shit that is wrong with the car and finding a solution or parts to fix it. My last problem that I now have the headache of dealing with is that the exhaust studs on the turbo outlets are M10x1.25 threaded, but the previous owner already put on regular M10 nuts so the threads are... weird. I only found this out the hard way. So now I will just try if I can in any way fit the front pipe regardless, if not I'll have to redo the studs with the turbos installed. Lesson learned for the future: Redo ALL studs you put your hands on, especially if they are old and the previous owners were inept maniacs. Thanks for reading if you did, will update when the engine runs again. Hope nothing breaks or leaks and I can do a test drive.
×
×
  • Create New...