Jump to content
SAU Community

Bored.. Thought I'd Show You

rb26s13

By rb26s13,
in Fabrication

 Share

Recommended Posts

Craved Grand Master

Craved

Posted
Posted

fused no filler?

i need to look into the differences in weld strength between the two - especially with the consistant temp changes exhausts undergo.

whoops, forgot to mention it looks good, nice weld colours :)

rb26s13 Mentor

rb26s13

Posted
  • Author
Posted
fused no filler?

i need to look into the differences in weld strength between the two - especially with the consistant temp changes exhausts undergo.

whoops, forgot to mention it looks good, nice weld colours :)

in all the intercooler/intake plumbing and exhaust work ive done with stainless i much rather fuse the pipes together and use filler to the flanges and not once have i had one crack or leak or anything like that.. however if i was to be making a manifold out of stainless i'd be using filler rod

that dump pipe is just 304 grade stainless.. its wat i use for everything except manifolds(havent done one yet but when i do i'll be using steam pipe)

and thanks it did turn out great

rb26s13 Mentor

rb26s13

Posted
  • Author
Posted (edited)
very nice work. totally agree there is no need for filler with stainless for exhausts and piping.

you just need to get the joins spot on and there isn't a problem.

what type of tig do you have ?

exactly, and thats wat i try to do all the time

i just have a little essiti however i made that piping using his CIG Tig which i had never used before couple practice runs.. set it up and off i went

that third shot (although a little blurry) looks mad. similar to robot welded.

you obviously know your sh*t when it comes to stainless welding

thanks :wave:

by the way.. im not qualified.. im just a labourer who loves welding (attempted an apprentiship couldnt handle the lack of money) which is also why i started doin this on the side

Edited by rb26s13
rb26s13 Mentor

rb26s13

Posted
  • Author
Posted (edited)
well not needing the filler is reassuring as i didnt use it on my ext gate plumb back pipes :/

they should be fine.. hell if the do crack send them to me i'll weld them :wave:

gotta love fusion it has to be the neatest/cleanest/best way to weld stainless together for an exhaust system or any of its components except for manifold(and pipe to flanges).. my only down side at the moment is i dont have a purging kit which i will be looking into in the near future.. and for those lucky cairns people i am also looking at opening an actual exhaust and intercooler piping shop seeing as i am sick to death of seeing the dodgy f**king work that gets done around the place up here

Edited by rb26s13
Factory 5 Mentor

Factory 5

Posted
Posted

If i send you some shop drawings in CAD or hardcopy, would you be ablt to quote me how much it would cost?

Im looking at getting something almost exactly the same as a normal R33 dump, but less abrupt angles.

oh and its to suit a R30 with a turboed L24 in it, so its rearely done (less than 10 examples in Australia)

rb26s13 Mentor

rb26s13

Posted
  • Author
Posted
If i send you some shop drawings in CAD or hardcopy, would you be ablt to quote me how much it would cost?

Im looking at getting something almost exactly the same as a normal R33 dump, but less abrupt angles.

oh and its to suit a R30 with a turboed L24 in it, so its rearely done (less than 10 examples in Australia)

sounds like a fun project however sorry dude.. i only work on cars i can see that way i garantee its got a perfect fit

  • 1 month later...
Ki_spirit Contributor

Ki_spirit

Posted
Posted

Good work with the welding, I have one question though. Not going to much into the dynamics of flow and crap - but is there a reason why in the first photo, 3rd bend from the left why you didn't just cut straight across with a straight piece of pipe instead of putting another bend? Just curious - maybe spacial limits under the car? or preference?

Got any tips for a stick welder? :P (Might get a mig later on)

Thanks.

rb26s13 Mentor

rb26s13

Posted
  • Author
Posted
Good work with the welding, I have one question though. Not going to much into the dynamics of flow and crap - but is there a reason why in the first photo, 3rd bend from the left why you didn't just cut straight across with a straight piece of pipe instead of putting another bend? Just curious - maybe spacial limits under the car? or preference?

Got any tips for a stick welder? :D (Might get a mig later on)

Thanks.

thanks for the kind words dude

are you refering to the short 50mm straight part thats welded inbetween the 45 degree bend and longer straight part or refering to how its 2 45;s with a bit of straight in between if your refering the 2 45's with bit of straight it was for clearance and to match up with the current cat back system that was on the car

as for the stick advice.. ive replied in your other thread

The BOP Enthusiast

The BOP

Posted
Posted

Hey mate did you use pulse or foot control? I normaly use 0.8 filler wire so you dont get any undercut and always purge the tube to not get any imperfections, you get a really nice smooth bore buy purgeing it looks as good as the outside sometimes better

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Kinkstaah
      Mistakes were made, my R34 Story

      By Kinkstaah · Posted

      God damnit. The only option I actually have in the software is the one that is screenshotted. I am glad that I at least got it right... for those two points. Would it actually change anything if I chose/used 80C and 120C as the two points instead? My brain wants to imagine the formula put into HPtuners would be the same equation, otherwise none of this makes sense to me, unless: 1) The formula you put into VCM Scanner/HPTuners is always linear 2) The two points/input pairs are only arbitrary to choose (as the documentation implies) IF the actual scaling of the sensor is linear. then 3) If the scaling is not linear, the two points you choose matter a great deal, because the formula will draw a line between those two points only.
    • GTSBoy
      Mistakes were made, my R34 Story

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      Nah, that is hella wrong. If I do a simple linear between 150°C (0.407v) and 50°C (2.98v) I get the formula Temperature = -38.8651*voltage + 165.8181 It is perfectly correct at 50 and 150, but it is as much as 20° out in the region of 110°C, because the actual data is significantly non-linear there. It is no more than 4° out down at the lowest temperatures, but is is seriously shit almost everywhere. I cannot believe that the instruction is to do a 2 point linear fit. I would say the method I used previously would have to be better.
    • GTSBoy
      DeAgostini 1/8 scale BNR32 Nissan Skyline GT-R Nismo

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      That's hilariously putrid!
    • GTSBoy
      R33 Fuel Pump & Brakes after alarm swap

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      When I said "wiring diagram", I meant the car's wiring diagram. You need to understand how and when 12V appears on certain wires/terminals, when 0V is allowed to appear on certain wires/terminals (which is the difference between supply side switching, and earth side switching), for the way that the car is supposed to work without the immobiliser. Then you start looking for those voltages in the appropriate places at the appropriate times (ie, relay terminals, ECU terminals, fuel pump terminals, at different ignition switch positions, and at times such as "immediately after switching to ON" and "say, 5-10s after switching to ON". You will find that you are not getting what you need when and where you need it, and because you understand what you need and when, from working through the wiring diagram, you can then likely work out why you're not getting it. And that will lead you to the mess that has been made of the associated wires around the immobiliser. But seriously, there is no way that we will be able to find or lead you to the fault from here. You will have to do it at the car, because it will be something f**ked up, and there are a near infinite number of ways for it to be f**ked up. The wiring diagram will give you wire colours and pin numbers and so you can do continuity testing and voltage/time probing and start to work out what is right and what is wrong. I can only close my eyes and imagine a rat's nest of wiring under the dash. You can actually see and touch it.
    • Kinkstaah
      Mistakes were made, my R34 Story

      By Kinkstaah · Posted

      So I found this: https://www.efihardware.com/temperature-sensor-voltage-calculator I didn't know what the pullup resistor is. So I thought if I used my table of known values I could estimate it by putting a value into the pullup resistor, and this should line up with the voltages I had measured. Eventually I got this table out of it by using 210ohms as the pullup resistor. 180C 0.232V - Predicted 175C 0.254V - Predicted 170C 0.278V - Predicted 165C 0.305V - Predicted 160C 0.336V - Predicted 155C 0.369V - Predicted 150C 0.407V - Predicted 145C 0.448V - Predicted 140C 0.494V - Predicted 135C 0.545V - Predicted 130C 0.603V - Predicted 125C 0.668V - Predicted 120C 0.740V - Predicted 115C 0.817V - Predicted 110C 0.914V - Predicted 105C 1.023V - Predicted 100C 1.15V 90C 1.42V - Predicted 85C 1.59V 80C 1.74V 75C 1.94V 70C 2.10V 65C 2.33V 60C 2.56V 58C 2.68V 57C 2.70V 56C 2.74V 55C 2.78V 54C 2.80V 50C 2.98V 49C 3.06V 47C 3.18V 45C 3.23V 43C 3.36V 40C 3.51V 37C 3.67V 35C 3.75V 30C 4.00V As before, the formula in HPTuners is here: https://www.hptuners.com/documentation/files/VCM-Scanner/Content/vcm_scanner/defining_a_transform.htm?Highlight=defining a transform Specifically: In my case I used 50C and 150C, given the sensor is supposedly for that. Input 1 = 2.98V Output 1 = 50C Input 2 = 0.407V Output 2 = 150C (0.407-2.98) / (150-50) -2.573/100 = -0.02573 2.98/-0.02573 + 47.045 = 50 So the corresponding formula should be: (Input / -0.02573) + 47.045 = Output.   If someone can confirm my math it'd be great. Supposedly you can pick any two pairs of the data to make this formula.
×
×
  • Create New...