Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

lol that pics is close but not the same. I'll keep it for another day :D

Mark and I were doing something silly and adding up the other day. The head prep, porting, springs, shims, valves and cams cost more than the rolling shell. or the cage. or the bottom end. or the intake and turbos. or all the suspension bits put together. In fact it is the most expensive bit of the car so far.

Shane that head looks good and even looking at it you can see why it would make a difference with the smooth curves. For now we will stick with what we have but we might clean up the squish zones once our wallets have recovered.

yeh im sure it'll do what its suppose to, cant wait to get it on the rollers to see what it does. its a 6k head with all the valvetrain gear. we were lucky as we ordered all the parts before the ass fell out of the dollar :P

that ones got

supertech dual springs & TI retainers

supertech guides

supertech 1mm inlet and 1mm exhaust valves

tomei 270 10.8 inlet and 280 10.8 exhaust cams

tomei cam cap studs

will @ jhh had to machine up some custom inner spring seats as supertech dont make them for the rb26. apparantly with the ferrea kit you can get a ferrea seat to suit, just a headsup if ur using supertech springs

lol that pics is close but not the same. I'll keep it for another day :P

Mark and I were doing something silly and adding up the other day. The head prep, porting, springs, shims, valves and cams cost more than the rolling shell. or the cage. or the bottom end. or the intake and turbos. or all the suspension bits put together. In fact it is the most expensive bit of the car so far.

Shane that head looks good and even looking at it you can see why it would make a difference with the smooth curves. For now we will stick with what we have but we might clean up the squish zones once our wallets have recovered.

This 32 on a "Shoestring" I wanna see the bloody shoes these strings came from. :D:yes:

lol no racing is cheap. and as the old say goes, "how quick do you want to go? = how much do you want to spend?"

but this car is still well under $20k including the car which is damn cheap for the pace it should go. one day :P

lol no racing is cheap. and as the old say goes, "how quick do you want to go? = how much do you want to spend?"

but this car is still well under $20k including the car which is damn cheap for the pace it should go. one day :D

Yeah just pullin the piss dunc. Hurry up and get this puppy on the track bloke. :P

here they are.

bathurst08.jpg

Ah I love ya mate,,,if I was a girl i'd let you have your way with me and have your baby.

One each should be very interesting. You know they are 5 litres each. Mondays work might well suffer.

Neil.

Post it or ban!!! :)

Oh, and I suppose I should have asked BEFORE I shredded it into a million little fluffy bits, but it's okay to remove the front firewall sound/heat deadening right? :(:)

well at least it reads in klm/h Ben:p

Andrew....for sure. anything that deadens sound must be removed so it sounds more like a race car.

(I don't think it will go any faster but it will sound better)

John @ UAS has been doing some very interesting stuff with front upper control arms (not as full on as Brad but still pretty interesting). Not sure what we will do about this yet. The rear subframe should be back from it's adjustments soon

I haven't seen Pelicans new upper arms yet but I have heard the're interesting.

I have the front of my white car sorted out now. Now the old 380 18inch slicks are a "loose" fit.

Ill be doing something similar with the rear Duncan. Problem I have is I can fit bigger rims on the front than the rear atm.

We also spent a day on the dyno yesterday with the Grey GTR, (Massive thanks to Guilt toy for lining up the borrowing of an AWD dyno)

The dry sump worked perfectly, engine is very strong and laughed at 1.3 bar.

Its first outting will be oran park next week, just need to finish off the radiator and header tank system. Drain the oil tank a little bit and put the slicks back on.

haha i was hoping you would chop across the chasis rails too. not sure what use they are sticking back there behind the subframe and suspension mounts :ermm:

Mark...don't forget the plenum tommoz.

Ben, I think there is more to come on that poor old car.

I think the rear rails will stay. I have cut right up to them and finished off the edges alot neater now. They will be needed to mount fuel cell, diff, box and transfer coolers etc from as well.

Oh hell yes this little old car is going to get alot more cut up yet. The front end will be cut out and finished shortly. Ill wait till Ive finished the cage before going much further though incase things move around. Saying that though I believe Ive run you through the stuff Ive been working on for the front end Duncan??

Ben the firewall has all be repaired now. It took 3/4 of a day to beat back into decent shape and a little work TIG welding a few new sections in where there was holes.

Edited by Risking

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • This is the territory of the "Stage 1/2/3 Golf GTI/R" or otherwise off the shelf tune with (relative to before) minor mods. It's easier now. Downpipe and Tune and boom, big increases. Stage 1 OEM+ is where it's at. This is where the niche evolved into and it's really easy to see why. It's rare to even NEED to consider changing turbos or going to aftermarket ECU's or building bottom ends for more power. Stage 1-2-3 will get you a LONG WAY. Civic Type R turbo GR Yaris/Corolla Anything with B58 (MKV Supra/x40i) Anything BMW in General Anything Audi in General Any turbo AMG RenaultSport Turbo offerings Korean Elantra N/I30N Ecoboost Mustangs Focus RS? List goes on. I would argue in the future it won't even need to go on... M3P is pretty rapid out of the box...
    • There is a way, but it's not with the same cars. You need to find the same vintage of car, that we had. Realistically, that was an affordable car with aftermarket parts around. So what people need to find is a car that had a decent base in its day, and can be modified. They're looking for a car year make of 2010 to 2015 really... Aus could have done it if Holden didn't fold as V8 commodores were cheap, and if Ford didn't get expensive thanks to COVID, then you could cheaply play with FG Barras. Realistically, those are just a bit heavier, four door skylines. I'm sure the US and UK have similar cars they could find.
    • Haha I do that.. thats when it chirps..The bit point for me is almost non-existent. Otherwise I stall it. But yes, in terms of performance, the clutch is solid af.
    • Greg speaks wisdom. These dirty old Datsuns are only value when they are cheap. When they are not cheap, there is no value. Sounds contradictory, but it's true. We are now 20 years past the hey day of modifying cheap 90s JDM cars for small amounts of money. This is a different world. If you are rich and can afford not to care about what is effectively wasting money on an old Datto shitter, then I have no reason to argue against it. But if you are wanting to experience what we all experienced back in 2005 (and I bought my car last century!) then there is no way to do it.
    • Short answer: No. Medium answer: No, because you still need to conjure the things out of thin air to bolt them to a NA to make it a NA+T. Long Answer: No - The things you need to conjure - meaning a turbo, intercooling, manifolds, exhaust, intake/manifold/piping, clutch, injectors, fuel pump, AFM (?), ECU + Wiring (woo, N/A loom fun) have to come from somewhere. You could have many scavenged these things from an OEM car that someone had upgraded from and use some of these. This will be cost prohibitive now, especially so in the USA. You'd probably pay the same for newer, upgraded components that are better than old OEM stuff from 25-30 years ago. None of these big ticket items are re-usable for the N/A car. Why not buy new and upgrade while you're there? The only real consideration is turbo and fuel sizing and determining whether you want to stay within the bounds of the OEM engine or get into rebuild territory. These limits ARE lower with a N/A motor and especially N/A gearbox at the starting point. And if you're gonna upgrade those then you may as well consider having them built to begin with. Because everyone here knows you're never far from that next engine rebuild once you start making the power you want... The cars you see on the internet and SAU etc have been built over decades. If you're really clued in... you would sell your US car to somebody for what you paid for it. You would then scour AU JDM pages or SAU and buy a car like Dose's on this forum with your powerful American Dollar. This will save you so much money in the long term. Importing it could be tricky. Or it might not because USA. I have long said the only reason 90's Japanese stuff took off was because a) Japanese people had Japanese cars so that is what they used b) Australians could import these cars to Australia with very minimal changes and use them on the road here c) Neither country had well-priced access to US or EU Sports Cars. I don't believe the JDM scene would have taken off in Australia at all if we had EU priced EU BMW M offerings, or more especially the AUS V8 Scene would never have existed if we had the multitude of US cars like Camaros, Mustangs, Corvettes at the prices you folks do. After all - Do the math. I would say put a V8 in your R34 and that's the smart way forward. It is. I did it. I know this from my own experience. But at that point there's no reason to simply not buy a C5 or C6? It would be simpler and easier and cheaper and bette-
×
×
  • Create New...