Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

I eat there a bit, but i would prefer going to kellys grill at the junction! ribs there as just as good if not better.

kellys is up near the cinemas! and best of all, no fu$#@$in waiting around!! as you cant book at huricanes after 6 for some reason.

:)

Edited by Angus Smart
so its official then, all blokes have the hiden away from wifey fund. mines been geting raided heavily as of late.

*cough* not to be talked about *cough*

some of us have wives who know where the internet is....

*cough* not to be talked about *cough*

some of us have wives who know where the internet is....

and watch this thread so they can keep account of the racing spend equivalent shoe and handbag fund

BUSTED!

'

Unless you have a laptop in the kitchen, you need to shorten the chain sir. :):(

Tiger some wives have their own lappy's and surf in here while hubby cooks dinner.

Actually I don't have such a fund,,,Don't need one,,we either have the money or I suffer dunlops at hillclimbs,,,,I just thought I would fish and see what I reeled in.

Neil.

What are you guys using for cam cap bearing studs/bolts?

the only ones i could find were tomei's. i reckon arp make them but i couldnt find an arp listing anywhere (only for porsche they list)

tomeicamcapstudsok7.th.jpgthpix.gifjohnshead015ww0.th.jpg

the only ones i could find were tomei's. i reckon arp make them but i couldnt find an arp listing anywhere (only for porsche they list)

tomeicamcapstudsok7.th.jpgthpix.gifjohnshead015ww0.th.jpg

Same thats all i can find - but not really cheap

The last 2 engines i did used JUN and GReddy...both are suitable.

Prices for them?

Ohh god when do we need to start with after market cam cap bolts they are the only nissan thing left in my soon to be repaired engine.

Same :P

Ohh god when do we need to start with after market cam cap bolts they are the only nissan thing left in my soon to be repaired engine.

good nissan ones are ok. plus the tomei/jun/trust etc are all stud kits.

yeah nissan will be fine for that. a lot of tuners I know these days prefer to steer away from head studs in 26's unless you really need them, and it's a similar story with cam cap studs. only worth doing if you really need to. i used brand new nissan bolts on mine, but as long as yours are good just use em again.

yeah nissan will be fine for that. a lot of tuners I know these days prefer to steer away from head studs in 26's unless you really need them, and it's a similar story with cam cap studs. only worth doing if you really need to. i used brand new nissan bolts on mine, but as long as yours are good just use em again.

agree...sometimes people can go a little OTT when it comes to engine hardware. They send me boxes and boxes of shiny Jap parts and ill put them in if they so desire. Ill recommend head studs to all RB's running 400kw+ but cam cap studs...the jury is still out on that one. My opinion is that they do not see much stress so bolt stretch will be minimum.

Edited by DiRTgarage

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Good tips, will get on those tomorrow. When doing the maintenance I did move a few of those connectors around, and things that are old tend to not like moving around. (Like me).
    • Don't try it. It will be shit. Better chance of damaging the engine than gaining any knowledge about the old one. Maybe, but unlikely, especially if the O2 sensor is working. You can use NissDataScan to look at the stock ECU.   Cleaning the AFM is seldom necessary and seldom helps. The R35 coil & loom conversion should eliminate dud coils or plugs. But as you still have misses - look to the plug where the coil loom connects to the engine loom, and the CAS plug. Need quality connections there. Also look to injector plugs. And the AFM plug while you're at it. Also look to whether your injectors are clean and flowing evenly. Get them out and onto a testbench.
    • Good to know, I feel like I am in for a rollercoaster ride that looks like a sine wave. 
    • You'll fit right in. Acceptance is the first step.
    • Hey folks. I've been lurking and browsing the forum for a while, since I got into my head that I wanted a skyline. Having purchased an overpriced completely stock GTT, (only "mods" it has is HKS pod filter and catback) now that it became legal in the US, it was all glorious and sututu noises here and there. But then I wanted to do things right and went to do basic maintenance. After all the fluids, filters done, I did the spark plugs, that's when the problems started.. First the car started spluttering at around 4.5k RPM. Which I gapped down the new plugs and that solved the sputter there, but the car now always misfires at idle with pops when lifting off and shifting 2nd to 3rd. Similar to the issues in this recent thread. I've been banging my head against the wall, reading the threads here and trying suggestions for a couple months now, so decided to start this one to explain exactly what I tried and what is going on. The symptoms of the issue: Idle and low revs misfiring intermittently. You can hear the exhaust tone change and the shakes on the shifter knob. It happens frequently, but doesn't seem to have a rhythm to it. Pops when backing off throttle. It pops and or burbles almost feels like it spits fire when it pops. (Happens mostly in 3rd gear at around 2k RPM). When under load and after 6k RPM, it also pops when shifting from 2nd to 3rd. There's a ticking noise at around 2k RPM in 2nd gear going downhill, seems unrelated though but I am out of educated and downright dumb guesses. Not noticeable lack of power when putting the car into load. The attempted diagnosis and solutions: Unplugging coils when the car is running This did nothing to change the idling and tone shift for every cylinder. Checking the exhaust headers with thermometer They all are within what I'd say it is margin of error of the laser thermometer New spark plugs Tossed two new sets, copper, iridium and using the old ones, still misfiring, even re gapped to 0.8mm, still same thing. MAF cleaned with the "specific" spray cleaner No changes in the issues what so ever. Brand new loom and r35 coil conversion (was going to add the r35 coils anyway) car runs arguably better, still misfires, but seems like does less frequently. Placebo? Code 21 now being thrown, thanks nissan gods. Removed the CAS to check the shaft for play or anything. CAS seems all fine, nothing that indicates any issue, visually speaking. Things to attempted next: Ordered a new MAF (chinesium from Amazon, to be able to return regardless of result). Fuel with proper gas, maybe it is this California water that they sell as gas that is to blame? Plugin the link ECU and check the info using the built in base map. Go back to BMW and eat my rob bearing breakfast without milky oil mixture.   Do any of you have experienced anything like this or have any suggestion?
×
×
  • Create New...