Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Where do you want to leave it, Sydney or Melbourne? Sydney I can't help out for long, the front yard has to be cleared for when we move out in Jan. In Melb you could leave it at my warehouse for a while if you needed. It's lock up, but no guarantees on security. If pieces go missing, I may be responsible, but I won't be held responsible :P

Where do you want to leave it, Sydney or Melbourne? Sydney I can't help out for long, the front yard has to be cleared for when we move out in Jan. In Melb you could leave it at my warehouse for a while if you needed. It's lock up, but no guarantees on security. If pieces go missing, I may be responsible, but I won't be held responsible :D

Not sure, Sydney would be best but im trying to store it for cheap longish term. I very much appreciate the offer, will most likely take you up on it, just need the car to be ok then ill get my name on the papers and go from there :down:

Either way ill be in touch about the bonnet and front bar as soon as i know (by Sunday night) :huh:

yeah Brad mid (to late) Dec would be perfect. We sealed the motor last night (old mate of yours, Mike did it for us). should be right to put it back in this weekend or next depending on when I have to work. what event do you have in mind?

Steve....if you need to use a trailer and can bring our stuff back I think we can sort something out :laugh:

Excellent. Oh yep Old mike and I go WAY back.... as im sure you probably would have heard about. Damn he can talk, and talk, and probably talk a little more.

Never ask him about his old N13 pulsar! I made that mistake last time he was here sealing up the combined touring car engines. Bloody hell!

Nicest guy you'd ever meet though and providing you fill him with coffee and biscuits his happy to come out anytime.

He actually lives two minutes from my place so also kinda handy.

Ill call you re the days im thinking about doing.

Also guys have you sourced your cage material for Marks other car??

Im buying all mine in this week and have secured a really good deal on the amount I need.

Ill be doing the entire cage in the better grade "chromoly" purely due to the weight and the fact its working out cheaper than buying Mild steel from the old supplier.

Im taking the car trailer to pick it all up over the weekend if you still need material you welcome to join in.

Edited by Risking

I bought the steel last week. Where did you manage to find the cheap stuff, and how cheap was it. The Chromoly that I bought was marginally cheaper than the equivalent mild steel, but it still was not cheap.

??

big sprocket = small top speed. small sprocket = big top speed. hence for a car sized track you'll be wanting a smaller sprocket not the biggest one you can find... :yucky:

big sprocket = small top speed. small sprocket = big top speed. hence for a car sized track you'll be wanting a smaller sprocket not the biggest one you can find... :P

you sure about that?

i'd have thought having a large rear sprocket would give me a higher top end??

i'd have thought having a large rear sprocket would give me a higher top end??

Sorry tiger but BB and Benm are right.

My Radical runs a chain as well. I don't change my front sprocket (17 teeth) rears are as follows,,,Oran Park GP (48 teeth),,,Eastern Creek (46 teeth) and Wakefield (50 teeth).

Neil.

you sure about that?

i'd have thought having a large rear sprocket would give me a higher top end??

:banana: yes I am sure!! but try it if you don't believe me!

Haha thanks guys, now that i do think about it you are right. i was thinking bikes but obviously not thinking right.

i wont be changing the engine gear, only the rear but i will try put the biggest engine gear i have on.

i will have to ask the go kart shop what they'd recommend.. but i cant see myself getting off the throttle at all with the current gearing

p.s. i think you need to add a commodore badge to that thing you posted :)

Edited by Angus Smart

Mark I got enough material to build atleast 3 cages similar to yours (two of the one Im doing) all in the highest grade chromoly the supplier has for a 3rd of the normal cost.

We roughly added it up to well over 100m of tubing in each size.

I also got the MDS (material data sheet) with it.

Edited by Risking
Haha thanks guys, now that i do think about it you are right. i was thinking bikes but obviously not thinking right.

i wont be changing the engine gear, only the rear but i will try put the biggest engine gear i have on.

i will have to ask the go kart shop what they'd recommend.. but i cant see myself getting off the throttle at all with the current gearing

p.s. i think you need to add a commodore badge to that thing you posted :P

bkes, carts, cars all the same. you've still got it backwards though. for car sized tracks you will need a smaller rear sprocket. not a bigger one. think about this. if you have a small gear driving large one the small one must rotate many times for the large one to complete 1 revolution, it's easily worked out and that is the final drive ratio. so in a GTR for instance the diff input will spin 4.1 imes just for the wheels to turn once. yes you wont change the engine drive, there is not normaly any need to. in karting you can get a wide enough range of ratios just by changing rear srpokets. I think you need to go back to school big buddy!!

bkes, carts, cars all the same. you've still got it backwards though. for car sized tracks you will need a smaller rear sprocket. not a bigger one. think about this. if you have a small gear driving large one the small one must rotate many times for the large one to complete 1 revolution, it's easily worked out and that is the final drive ratio. so in a GTR for instance the diff input will spin 4.1 imes just for the wheels to turn once. yes you wont change the engine drive, there is not normaly any need to. in karting you can get a wide enough range of ratios just by changing rear srpokets. I think you need to go back to school big buddy!!

Yeha i figured it out :P i was thinking bigger for some strange reason. but now i remember from my old mountian bike which i've not riden in about 50 years! haha

tho i think i'd need a bigger engine sprocket, then perhaps about 10-15teeth smaller rear one. its going to be a C^$t to start!

Way too much on my mind latley with all this starting a business shit going on.

Apologies in advance if I've missed it somewhere, but if you guys are going to build Moly cages won't you need an engineers certificate for CAMS? And don't they run to 3k plus these days?

no, just leave $50 inside your log book when you get scrutineered at events. :( much cheaper than get it certified. :banana:

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I did end up getting it sorted, as GTSBoy said, there was a corroded connection and wire that needed to be replaced. I ended up taking out the light assembly, giving everything a good clean and re-soldered the old joints, and it came out good.
    • Wow, thanks for your help guys 🙏. I really appreciate it. Thanks @Rezz, if i fail finding any new or used, full or partial set of original Stage carpets i will come back to you for sure 😉 Explenation is right there, i just missed it 🤦‍♂️. Thanks for pointing out. @soviet_merlin in the meantime, I received a reply from nengun, and i quote: "Thanks for your message and interest in Nengun. KG4900 is for the full set of floor mats, while KG4911 is only the Driver's Floor Mat. FR, RH means Front Right Hand Side. All the Full Set options are now discontinued. However, the Driver's Floor Mat options are still available according to the latest information available to us. We do not know what the differences would be, but if you only want the one mat, we can certainly see what we can find out for you". Interesting. It seems they still have some "new old stock" that Duncan mentioned 🤔. I wonder if they can provide any photos......And i also just realized that amayama have G4900 sets. I'm tempted too. 
    • Any update on this one? did you manage to get it fixed?    i'm having the same issue with my r34 and i believe its to do with the smart entry (keyless) control module but cant be sure without forking out to get a replacement  
    • So this being my first contribution to the SAU forums, I'd like to present and show how I had to solve probably one of the most annoying fixes on any car I've owned: replacing a speedometer (or "speedo") sensor on my newly acquired Series 1 Stagea 260RS Autech Version. I'm simply documenting how I went about to fix this issue, and as I understand it is relatively rare to happen to this generation of cars, it is a gigantic PITA so I hope this helps serve as reference to anyone else who may encounter this issue. NOTE: Although I say this is meant for the 260RS, because the gearbox/drivetrain is shared with the R33 GTR with the 5-speed manual, the application should be exactly the same. Background So after driving my new-to-me Stagea for about 1500km, one night while driving home the speedometer and odometer suddenly stopped working. No clunking noise, no indication something was broken, the speedometer would just stop reading anything and the odometer stopped going up. This is a huge worry for me, because my car is relatively low mileage (only 45k km when purchased) so although I plan to own the car for a long time, a mismatched odometer reading would be hugely detrimental to resale should the day come to sell the car. Thankfully this only occurred a mile or two from home so it wasn't extremely significant. Also, the OCD part of me would be extremely irked if the numbers that showed on my dash doesn't match the actual ageing of the car. Diagnosing I had been in communication with the well renown GTR shop in the USA, U.P.garage up near University Point in Washington state. After some back and forth they said it could be one of two things: 1) The speedometer sensor that goes into the transfer case is broken 2) The actual cluster has a component that went kaput. They said this is common in older Nissan gauge clusters and that would indicate a rebuild is necessary. As I tried to figure out if it was problem #1, I resolved problem #2 by sending my cluster over to Relentless Motorsports in Dallas, TX, whom is local to me and does cluster and ECU rebuilds. He is a one man operation who meticulously replaces every chip, resistor, capacitor, and electronic component on the PCB's on a wide variety of classic and modern cars. His specialty is Lexus and Toyota, but he came highly recommended by Erik of U.P.garage since he does the rebuilds for them on GTR clusters.  For those that don't know, on R32 and R33 GTR gearboxes, the speedometer sensor is mounted in the transfer case and is purely an analog mini "generator" (opposite of an alternator essentially). Based on the speed the sensor spins it generates an AC sine wave voltage up to 5V, and sends that via two wires up to the cluster which then interprets it via the speedometer dial. The signal does NOT go to the ECU first, the wiring goes to the cluster first then the ECU after (or so I'm told).  Problems/Roadblocks I first removed the part from the car on the underside of the transfer case (drain your transfer case fluid/ATF first, guess who found out that the hard way?), and noted the transfer case fluid was EXTREMELY black, most likely never changed on my car. When attempting to turn the gears it felt extremely gritty, as if something was binding the shaft from rotating properly. I got absolutely no voltage reading out of the sensor no matter how fast I turned the shaft. After having to reflow the solder on my AFM sensors based on another SAU guide here, I attempted to disassemble the silicone seal on the back of the sensor to see what happened inside the sensor; turns out, it basically disintegrated itself. Wonderful. Not only had the electrical components destroyed themselves, the magnetic portion on what I thought was on the shaft also chipped and was broken. Solution So solution: find a spare part right? Wrong. Nissan has long discontinued the proper sensor part number 32702-21U19, and it is no longer obtainable either through Nissan NSA or Nissan Japan. I was SOL without proper speed or mileage readings unless I figured out a way to replace this sensor. After tons of Googling and searching on SAU, I found that there IS however a sensor that looks almost exactly like the R33/260RS one: a sensor meant for the R33/R34 GTT and GTS-T with the 5 speed manual. The part number was 25010-21U00, and the body, plug, and shaft all looked exactly the same. The gear was different at the end, but knowing the sensor's gear is held on with a circlip, I figured I could just order the part and swap the gears. Cue me ordering a new part from JustJap down in Kirrawee, NSW, then waiting almost 3 weeks for shipping and customs clearing. The part finally arrives and what did I find? The freaking shaft lengths don't match. $&%* I discussed with Erik how to proceed, and figuring that I basically destroyed the sensor trying to get the shaft out of the damaged sensor from my car. we deemed it too dangerous to try and attempt to swap shafts to the correct length. I had to find a local CNC machinist to help me cut and notch down the shaft. After tons of frantic calling on a Friday afternoon, I managed to get hold of someone and he said he'd be able to do it over half a week. I sent him photos and had him take measurements to match not only the correct length and notch fitment, but also a groove to machine out to hold the retentive circlip. And the end result? *chef's kiss* Perfect. Since I didn't have pliers with me when I picked up the items, I tested the old gear and circlip on. Perfect fit. After that it was simply swapping out the plug bracket to the new sensor, mount it on the transfer case, refill with ATF/Nissan Matic Fluid D, then test out function. Thankfully with the rebuilt cluster and the new sensor, both the speedometer and odometer and now working properly!   And there you have it. About 5-6 weeks of headaches wrapped up in a 15 minute photo essay. As I was told it is rare for sensors of this generation to die so dramatically, but you never know what could go wrong with a 25+ year old car. I HOPE that no one else has to go through this problem like I did, so with my take on a solution I hope it helps others who may encounter this issue in the future. For the TL;DR: 1) Sensor breaks. 2) Find a replacement GTT/GTS-T sensor. 3) Find a CNC machinist to have you cut it down to proper specs. 4) Reinstall then pray to the JDM gods.   Hope this guide/story helps anyone else encountering this problem!
    • So this being my first contribution to the SAU forums, I'd like to present and show how I had to solve probably one of the most annoying fixes on any car I've owned: replacing a speedometer (or "speedo") sensor on my newly acquired Series 1 Stagea 260RS Autech Version. I'm simply documenting how I went about to fix this issue, and as I understand it is relatively rare to happen to this generation of cars, it is a gigantic PITA so I hope this helps serve as reference to anyone else who may encounter this issue. NOTE: Although I say this is meant for the 260RS, because the gearbox/drivetrain is shared with the R33 GTR with the 5-speed manual, the application should be exactly the same. Background So after driving my new-to-me Stagea for about 1500km, one night while driving home the speedometer and odometer suddenly stopped working. No clunking noise, no indication something was broken, the speedometer would just stop reading anything and the odometer stopped going up. This is a huge worry for me, because my car is relatively low mileage (only 45k km when purchased) so although I plan to own the car for a long time, a mismatched odometer reading would be hugely detrimental to resale should the day come to sell the car. Thankfully this only occurred a mile or two from home so it wasn't extremely significant. Also, the OCD part of me would be extremely irked if the numbers that showed on my dash doesn't match the actual ageing of the car. Diagnosing I had been in communication with the well renown GTR shop in the USA, U.P.garage up near University Point in Washington state. After some back and forth they said it could be one of two things: 1) The speedometer sensor that goes into the transfer case is broken 2) The actual cluster has a component that went kaput. They said this is common in older Nissan gauge clusters and that would indicate a rebuild is necessary. As I tried to figure out if it was problem #1, I resolved problem #2 by sending my cluster over to Relentless Motorsports in Dallas, TX, whom is local to me and does cluster and ECU rebuilds. He is a one man operation who meticulously replaces every chip, resistor, capacitor, and electronic component on the PCB's on a wide variety of classic and modern cars. His specialty is Lexus and Toyota, but he came highly recommended by Erik of U.P.garage since he does the rebuilds for them on GTR clusters.  For those that don't know, on R32 and R33 GTR gearboxes, the speedometer sensor is mounted in the transfer case and is purely an analog mini "generator" (opposite of an alternator essentially). Based on the speed the sensor spins it generates an AC sine wave voltage up to 5V, and sends that via two wires up to the cluster which then interprets it via the speedometer dial. The signal does NOT go to the ECU first, the wiring goes to the cluster first then the ECU after (or so I'm told).  Problems/Roadblocks I first removed the part from the car on the underside of the transfer case (drain your transfer case fluid/ATF first, guess who found out that the hard way?), and noted the transfer case fluid was EXTREMELY black, most likely never changed on my car. When attempting to turn the gears it felt extremely gritty, as if shttps://imgur.com/6TQCG3xomething was binding the shaft from rotating properly. After having to reflow the solder on my AFM sensors based on another SAU guide here, I attempted to disassemble the silicone seal on the back of the sensor to see what happened inside the sensor; turns out, it basically disintegrated itself. Wonderful. Not only had the electrical components destroyed themselves, the magnetic portion on what I thought was on the shaft also chipped and was broken. Solution So solution: find a spare part right? Wrong. Nissan has long discontinued the proper sensor part number 32702-21U19, and it is no longer obtainable either through Nissan NSA or Nissan Japan. I was SOL without proper speed or mileage readings unless I figured out a way to replace this sensor. After tons of Googling and searching on SAU, I found that there IS however a sensor that looks almost exactly like the R33/260RS one: a sensor meant for the R33/R34 GTT and GTS-T with the 5 speed manual. The part number was 25010-21U00, and the body, plug, and shaft all looked exactly the same. The gear was different at the end, but knowing the sensor's gear is held on with a circlip, I figured I could just order the part and swap the gears. Cue me ordering a new part from JustJap down in Kirrawee, NSW, then waiting almost 3 weeks for shipping and customs clearing. The part finally arrives and what did I find? The freaking shaft lengths don't match. $&%* I discussed with Erik how to proceed, and figuring that I basically destroyed the sensor trying to get the shaft out of the damaged sensor from my car. we deemed it too dangerous to try and attempt to swap shafts to the correct length. I had to find a local CNC machinist to help me cut and notch down the shaft. After tons of frantic calling on a Friday afternoon, I managed to get hold of someone and he said he'd be able to do it over half a week. I sent him photos and had him take measurements to match not only the correct length and notch fitment, but also a groove to machine out to hold the retentive circlip. And the end result? *chef's kiss* Perfect. Since I didn't have pliers with me when I picked up the items, I tested the old gear and circlip on. Perfect fit. After that it was simply swapping out the plug bracket to the new sensor, mount it on the transfer case, refill with ATF/Nissan Matic Fluid D, then test out function. Thankfully with the rebuilt cluster and the new sensor, both the speedometer and odometer and now working properly!   And there you have it. About 5-6 weeks of headaches wrapped up in a 15 minute photo essay. As I was told it is rare for sensors of this generation to die so dramatically, but you never know what could go wrong with a 25+ year old car. I HOPE that no one else has to go through this problem like I did, so with my take on a solution I hope it helps others who may encounter this issue in the future. For the TL;DR: 1) Sensor breaks. 2) Find a replacement GTT/GTS-T sensor. 3) Find a CNC machinist to have you cut it down to proper specs. 4) Reinstall then pray to the JDM gods.   Hope this guide/story helps anyone else encountering this problem!
×
×
  • Create New...