Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

  Quote
Originally posted by coco69

wheres the best place to buy the plastic bodies ones that require full assembly, e.g. fujimi and tamiya kit styles??

most of mine were given to me, but i always get them from games/model stores and they cost over 40 bucks each.  is there a way to order them direct from japan?  i'd love it if i could get them for around 15-20 bucks each.

coco69, http://www.hlj.com is your friend!!! They are in japan (but ship worldwide and the website is all in english) and carry basically all the fujimi and tamiya models (as opposed to australai where there is maybe 10 fujimi models brought in by the distributor). They also carry all the dress up bits like wheels and wings, mufflers etc that fujimi/aoshima make.

My GTS-R kit was 1000yen, or $13!!! postage was about the same, so all up, including the wheels I bought it came to $33.80, and once my kit came into stock (it was out of production when I ordered) it took 9 DAYS to get here.

I recommend them to everyone, and also recommend staying out of bloodsucking aussie hobby shops for everything bar paint/glue/supplies/revell kits. The GTS-R was going to be $50+ from sherriffs , and unavailable elsewhere......

its just stoopid to buy fujimi kits here.

cheers,

floody

I buy all my stuff from www.hlj.com I reccomend them to anyone who's after stuff. The 2-3week shipping wait is well worth the savings, plus they've got better quality kits. Check out Aoshima kits they're alot better than Fujimi kits.

I had an awesome S15 on order but it was limited run and they are out of production now :)

I changed my order to a HKS tuned WRX now, should be interesting. I'll add it to my huge pile of "kits to build" hehe

I have a Mini-Z silver r34, Its actually a fairly high quality scale body for a little RC car. Well it used to be good, a fair bit of its body is broken/missing now. Also a few 1/10 RC skyline bodys, an r34 and the R33 LM car, both of wich arent to good for my nitro car as they make the thing want to take off but look good flying around on an electric RC car. I havent got any skyline scale models as such yet but maybe in the future. Whats the best way to paint a scale model kit? Is it possible to get a decent finish with a brush? Havent got a little spray gun.

  Quote
Originally posted by T0nyGTSt

We need some pics of that R33 GTS Ryan :P

Mine are Ebbro 1:43 die cast. Retail is about $75 each with the rare ones (like that purple GT-R 34) running much more.

1:43 is a good size for sticking ontop of your monitor.

T.

I'll get some pics sometime this week when I go get the camera off my dad.

I painted it today, but, I ran out of paint and need to buy another can to finish it off. I'll buy some more paint tommorow see how we go. So far so good. I modified the front bar some more too it looks alright. I've decided I'll most likely add 19inch Work Equip 5's to it also now. Pics sometime this week :(

Guys - keep an eye out for www.importplaza.com.au - we will be importing all sorts of Diecast models and selling them from the site (which should be live during the week.)

and Ryan, i notice you are posting here again?? i thought you'd had it with SAU and went your own way?

i can't seem to find HLJ's full listing of all fujimi models?

only seems there are a few selected types... can someone show me to the link where its got the full listing of models? coz im gonna go nuts and buy like 10 at once if they carry all different models.

e.g. gts and gtr of each skyline series.

coco use the menu on the side of the main page where it says Browse by Company, go to Fujimi. Then select passenger cars, there's plenty of cars in there. Or just use the search feature for Skyline or whatever..

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I've got the rear ones, they're certainly beefy. I need to take them to my driveshaft guru to check over, he's very fussy about the quality of components so I'll let you know if they are made of cheese by a blind man.   Are you in Australia? A mate just had a set of EN26 shafts made for his K20 Lotus by our fabricator which were quite cheap (compared to Driveshaft Shop) so if you can procure the CV's and draw what you need he'd make them for ~$800 for the pair.
    • Had I known the diff between R32 and R33 suspension I would have R33 suspension. That ship has sailed so I'm doing my best to replicate a drop spindle without spending $4k on a Billet one.
    • OEM suspension starts to bind as soon as the car gets away from stock height. I locked in the caster and camber before cutting off the kingpin. I then let the upright down in a natural (unbound) state before re-attaching it. Now it moves freely in bump and droop relative to the new ride height. My plan is to add GKTech arms before the car is finished so I can dial camber and caster further. It will be fine. This isn't rocket science. Caster looks good, camber is good, upper arm doesn't cause crazy gain and it is now closer to the stock angle and bump steer checks out. Send it.
    • Pay careful attention to the kinematics of that upper arm. The bloody things don't work properly even on a normal stock height R32. Nissan really screwed the pooch on that one. The fixes have included changing the hole locations on the bracket to change the angle of the inner pivot (which was fairly successful but usually makes it impossible to install or remove the arm without unbolting the bracket from the tower, which sucks) and various swivelling upper arm designs. ALL the swivelling upper arm designs that look like a capital I (with serifs) suck. All of them. Some of them are in fact terribly unsafe. Even the best one of them (the old UAS design) shat itself in short order on my car. The only upper arm that works as advertised and is pretty safe is the GKTech one. But it is high maintenance on a street car. I'm guessing that a 600HP car as (stupidly, IMO) low as you are going is not going to be a regular driver. So the maintenance issues on suspension parts are probably not going to be a problem. But you really must make sure that however your fairly drastically modded suspension ends up, that the upper arms swing through an arc that wants to keep the inner and outer bolts parallel. If the outer end travels through an arc that makes that end's bolt want to skew away from parallel with the inner bolt, you will build up enormous binding and compressing forces in the bushes, chew them out and hate life. The suspension compliance can actually be dominated by the bush binding, not the spring rate! It may be the case that even something like the GKTech arm won't work if your suspension kinematics become too weird, courtesy of all the cut and shut going on. Although you at least say there's no binding now, so maybe you're OK. Seeing as you're in the build phase, you could consider using R33/4 type upper arms (either that actual arm, OEM or aftermarket) or any similar wishbone designed to suit your available space, so alleviate the silliness of the R32 design. Then you can locate your inner pivots to provide the correct kinematics (camber gain on compression, etc).
    • The frontend wouldn't go low enough because the coilover was max low and the upper control arm would collapse into itself and potentially bottom out in the strut tower. I made a brace and cut off the kingpin and then moved the upright down 1.25" and welded. i still have to finish but this gives an idea. Now I can have a normal 3.25" of shock travel and things aren't binding. I'm also dropping the lower arm and tie rod 1.25".
×
×
  • Create New...