Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Found this other thread ( http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/Re...-R-t216074.html ) when I was looking for some information, posted a reply there before I realised where it was located, might get a bit more of a response here..

Basically, I have the originals out, the new ones all rigged up ready to go back in. I was looking at the task in front of me and wondered if it was easier to do front turbo first, then the rear one coming up from under the car?

Or is the rear first, then the front the way to go, same as removal?

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/221996-26dett-turbo-fitting-procedure/
Share on other sites

Thanks for the reply.

Thats the way I was going to do them, but thought there may be a slightly smarter way of going about it.

The only reason I can think to take the motor out at the same time is if you want to do oil pump, crank snout mods or anything else internal.. not really worth it otherwise for a backyarder. If I was paying someone to do it then it might be different.

It wasn't all that painful to get the originals out, even with my mitts, and I hadn't done it before.

Picked up a set of old mines' dumps in stainless. Good condition as well.

Yeah nice, i actually did mine a month or so back and it wasnt to hard at all. doing it in a backyard too :thumbsup:

what helped was last time we put the turbos on some of the bolts wernt too tight ..

i only doing it with my motor out as i have a new motor to put back in soon....

Hey mate!

Saw you read through my thread, i got mine out ok after a lot of trial and error haha. Im in the process at the moment of putting it all back on and so far so good. If you have some questions or anything you think i could answer (or have a go at answering) just yell! For the record, i got mine out front first then rear and found it to be fairly easy and i am refitting in the same manner with rear first and front second.

  • 2 weeks later...

And there we go, decided to stick my head in the sand and do it totally different.

Threw the front turbo in, then bolted both manifolds on, slipped the rear turbo in from underneath, then bolted both turbos to manifolds.

After this worked from underneath and bolted the oil and water lines up, oil drains, and braces.

Seemed to be a lot nicer doing it this way than when I took the stockers out (the advised way), those manifold nuts and the oil and water lines on bits that had been sitting there for so many years was enough to give me major irrits.

All this work to fit new parts and I'll never get to show them off. looks damn near stock with the original heatshields back in place.

Just left to fit the rad back in, air filters and piping, then the new injectors. Only been in the shed for 5 1/2 months so far.. can't rush things.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • +1. Good thing is people wont tailgate you for a while
    • If you have a RB25DET NEO AWD motor, you will need this: https://www.hioctanedirect.com/ASR-RB26-RWD-Street-Comp-6.5L-Sump-Suit-R32/33/34-and-VL It is made for the AWD motor, but makes it fit a RWD setup and gives you a new pickup. Just one thing, the pickup sits quite forward, compared to a conventional RB25DET RWD motor. This may or may not have contributed to my previous AWD -> RWD shitting the bed at the track.
    • My car is also flex tuned. It's worth mentioning it (the LS1 ECU) has a 1D table for E85 addition and just uses the ethanol stoich part as the second point of reference. It also as a 3D timing map for Ethanol adjustment. You would think this isn't enough but it works pretty damn well. That said, I wouldn't want it in turbo application. It's like lifting non-natty, or taking meth. It gets you unrealistic results that break down more things going forward. If people used it to make the same amount of power they do on 98 then it'd be one thing. But people use it, crank it up to eleventy million PSI, it doesn't knock - but it pushes the point of failure to another, more expensive thing to break. Every time I see someone make 280kw on 98 and 350kw on E85 on the same equipment I just cry a bit and really wish they would just stay on 98 in that exact scenario. It's bad for you. 
    • This is kind of what I was thinking but the temp sender wire and the two pressure switch wires run through the starter subharnes and I eliminated the two pressure switch wires completely.  @GTSBoy I have a can gauge with unusually bright warnings should the oil pressure fall so the factory light isn't needed. I need to dig out my wiring diagram and see if I can sort this out.
    • It's a valid point. And it is doable with the Nistune. But I'm not inclined to flex it the way Nistune does - certainly not on a Neo ECU. They're already pernickety enough to tune just one one fuel. And of course, I'm not that interested in putting in a Link or similar, on a daily. With the stock ECU, stock looking turbo, etc etc, I still stand a chance of surviving a run-in with the plod. Last time it went over the pits (which was for the transplant, for because of a run-in with the plod), the Nistuned ECU did not even raise an eyebrow. They want to see a stock ECU running the engine, and they are happy to see it do so without the check engine light** on. Never mind that the Nistune is necessary to make the stock ECU work in a different chassis without ABS, TCS, etc. **And they actually provoke the CEL to come on by disconnecting the AFM, to prove that the globe hasn't been pulled!
×
×
  • Create New...