Jump to content
SAU Community

Gtr Gtr G T R

donkey

By donkey,
in Engines & Forced Induction

 Share

Recommended Posts

donkey Community Regular

donkey

Posted
Posted

hey all, just wondering r33gtr rb26, 380oddrwkw, little bit of 1/4 mile work, running max 18psi, all standard oil set up (factory pump/no aftermarket sump baffles etc, head restrictors) should i think about getting a aftermarket oil cooler?

cheers robbie

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/222123-gtr-gtr-g-t-r/
Share on other sites
(OO)SKYLINE(OO) Grand Master

(OO)SKYLINE(OO)

Posted
Posted

Would not hurt but I see having an oil cooler will be more beneficial on a circut / drift car.

Oil cooler will just keep your oil at a lower temp so the engine will still run a lot smoother.

If you are just doing 1/4 mile work, you won't be on the track for long so there is kinda no point but if you are performing multiple drag races in one day its probley not a bad idea either IMO.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/222123-gtr-gtr-g-t-r/#findComment-3914602
Share on other sites
donkey Community Regular

donkey

Posted
  • Author
Posted
and a good oil pump so the gears don't break :thumbsup:

hmmm yeah i no, it kinds sucks getting all the turbo work done, wasnt really told i should upgrade all my oil systems, well hope the engine holds till at least a year after my baby is born :blush: ha

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/222123-gtr-gtr-g-t-r/#findComment-3914614
Share on other sites
donkey Community Regular

donkey

Posted
  • Author
Posted
Fit the oil cooler when the oil starts getting too hot :D ...or taking a long time to dissipate after WOT.

I found a BNR32 needs to be peddled pretty hard on the street to upset oil temps.

cool, thanks, was driving up a mountain (about 10 mins) and oil temp got to about 120deg, wasnt using much boost, hate to think how hot it would have got if boosting.......

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/222123-gtr-gtr-g-t-r/#findComment-3915093
Share on other sites
VSPEC-33 Community Regular

VSPEC-33

Posted
Posted

120 degrees is defintely getting on the hot side.....

If you want one and have to dollars, the setups with a thermostat are the ones to go for. It lets the engine oil get up to operating temp and then keeps it there...

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/222123-gtr-gtr-g-t-r/#findComment-3915754
Share on other sites
femno Grand Master

femno

Posted
Posted

120! Thats really quite hot...!

You dont have to have one with a thermostat, theyre often overpriced and hard to find.

The Just Jap kits are awesome, ive had one with a remote mount for a couple of years now and it does a great job. Street, track, even on a 30 degree day at winton it kept temps reasonable. And even though it doesnt have a thermostat, its doesnt over-cool the oil.

For $460 you cant go wrong.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/222123-gtr-gtr-g-t-r/#findComment-3916273
Share on other sites
Ant97GTR Grand Master

Ant97GTR

Posted
Posted

I managed to cook the oil in mine after a drive in the hills on a summers day. If you are only using the car for 1/4 mile action or a short drive every now and again I wouldn't bother. If you plan on doing track days or some extended spirited driving I'd recommend you get one.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/222123-gtr-gtr-g-t-r/#findComment-3916651
Share on other sites
Godzilla32 Veteran

Godzilla32

Posted
Posted

Adding an oil cooler also increases oil capacity which is never a bad thing. Especially when you dont have any other oil control mods to limit cylinder head lubrication or return. An oil cooler is an important part to any modified/hard driven car whether it be used for street, track or drags. Also in australia with our climate a thermostat for your oil isnt completely necessary as its rarely cold enough to need it.

Good luck,

Deren

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/222123-gtr-gtr-g-t-r/#findComment-3918123
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • brillo
      Leak from Tokico BM50 Brake Master Cylinder

      By brillo · Posted

      Hi, SteveL Thank you very much for your reply, you seem to be the only person on the net who has come up with a definitive answer for which I am grateful. The "Leak" was more by way of wet bubbles when the pedal was depressed hard by a buddy while trying to gey a decent pedal when bleeding the system having fitted the rebuilt BM50 back in the car, which now makes perfect sense. A bit of a shame having just rebuilt my BM50, I did not touch the proportioning valve side of things, the BM50 was leaking from the primary piston seal and fluid was running down the the Brake booster hence the need to rebuild, I had never noticed any fluid leaking from that hole previously it only started when I refitted it to the car. The brake lines in the photo are "Kunifer" which is a Copper/Nickel alloy brake pipe, but are only the ones I use to bench bleed Master cylinders, they are perfectly legal to use on vehicles here in the UK, however the lines on the car are PVF coated steel. Thanks again for clearing this up for me, a purchase of a new BMC appears to be on the cards, I have been looking at various options in case my BM50 was not repairable and have looked at the HFM BM57 which I understand is manufactured in Australia.  
    • Gantai
      R33 GTST Steering Rack (49001-19U05) Rebuild?

      By Gantai · Posted

      PXL_20250828_063541093.TS.mp4
    • Gantai
      R33 GTST Steering Rack (49001-19U05) Rebuild?

      By Gantai · Posted

      Well the install is officially done. Filled with fluid and bled it today, but didn't get a chance to take it on a test drive. I'll throw some final pics of the lines and whatnot but you can definitely install a DMAX rack in an R33 with pretty minor mods. I think the only other thing I had to do that isn't documented here is grind a bit of the larger banjo fitting to get it to clear since the banjos are grouped much tighter on the DMAX rack. Also the dust boots from a R33 do not fit either fyi, so if you end up doing this install for whatever reason you'll need to grab those too. One caveat with buying the S15 dust boots however is that the clamps are too small to fit on the R33 inner tie rod since they're much thicker so keep the old clamps around. The boots also twist a bit when adjusting toe but it's not a big deal. No issues or leaks so far, steering feels good and it looks like there's a bit more lock now than I had before. Getting an alignment on Saturday so I'll see how it feels then but seems like it'll be good to go       
    • PranK
      R35 GT-R production ends after 18 years

      By PranK · Posted

    • SteveL
      Leak from Tokico BM50 Brake Master Cylinder

      By SteveL · Posted

      I don't get in here much anymore but I can help you with this.   The hole is a vent (air relief) for the brake proportioning valve, which is built into the master cylinder.    The bad news is that if brake fluid is leaking from that hole then it's getting past the proportioning valve seals.   The really bad news is that no spare parts are available for the proportioning valve either from Nissan or after market.     It's a bit of a PITA getting the proportioning valve out of the master cylinder body anyway but, fortunately, leaks from that area are rare in my experience. BTW, if those are copper (as such) brake lines you should get rid of them.    Bundy (steel) tube is a far better choice (and legal  in Australia - if that's where you are).
×
×
  • Create New...