Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

if you want to be sure that your turbo is going to be safe then run 12 if you go above this its not the best thing for the ceramic exhaust wheel as it can finish in your exhaust but i know guys that run 14 and still havent had any probs, i am making 204rwkw at 12 psi and use EBC as it is a much safer way of controling your boost

yeah its pretty well covered in some of the threads mate......i personally have been adviced by some of the guru's of imports that on a stock RB25 turbo dont go past 12 psi....12 psi is the safe boost level....anything above that will reduce the life of the turbo big time.....i have mine on 10psi on a r33 s1 and i reakon that is plenty of boost for me.....

I've only had my R33 for about 4 months now and am new to forced induction. but how do you increase your boost? do you have to run a boost controller or can you just go to a place like boostworx and get them to put it up for you? thanks :(

you need a bleed valve or electronic boost controller (a bleed valve is a type of manual boost controller).

Unless you have an accurate boost gauge (the factory one is NOT), and some decent mechanical knowledge (which, no offense sounds like you don't), take it to a workshop and get them put in a device for you and set it up.

I've only had my R33 for about 4 months now and am new to forced induction. but how do you increase your boost? do you have to run a boost controller or can you just go to a place like boostworx and get them to put it up for you? thanks :(

Hey mate....i wont go down the road of a bleeder valve...ebc is the way to go but make sure that its all tuned properly

i have an rb25 turbo on my rb20. its happy as a pig in shit at 13psi, i get 199 at the wheels with re-mapped ecu

The RB20 uses a fair whack less air than the rb25. As a result the shaft speed/backpressure/power/airflow etc is all less for the same given boost pressure.

14psi is fine with the rb25 turbo on the rb20.

The rb20det turbo on both the rb20 and rb30 (with 25 head) made ever so slightly more power with the 25 head but with ~4-5psi less boost.

The bottom end makes no difference to peak power as that is governed by the head.

An RB20DET with 14psi should be making similiar power as to an RB25det with ~10psi according to what I've seen with mine.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I would just put EBC back on the "I would not use their stuff" pile and move on.
    • Can I suggest you try EBC directly again and link them to as many competitor catalogues as you can to show their listing is incorrect, eg https://dba.com.au/product/front-4000-series-hd-brake-rotor-dba42304/ If you have access to an R33 GTST VIN and your VIN, you could also use a Nissan Parts lookup like Amayama to show them the part number is different between 33 GTST and 34 GTT which may get their attention
    • So i got reply from EBC and they just this site where you can clearly see those 296mm fronts on R34 GTT. I send them photos and "quotes" that 296mm are not for 34 GTT and they are too small. But it will be very hard to return them cuz nobody here knows 100% and they just copy those EBC catalogue :-D https://ebcbrakesdirect.com/automotive/nissan/skyline-r34
    • Hi, is the HKS  Tower Bar still available ? negotiable ? 🤔
    • From there, it is really just test and assemble. Plug the adapter cables from the unit into the back of the screen, then the other side to the car harness. Don't forget all the other plugs too! Run the cables behind the unit and screw it back into place (4 screws) and you should now have 3 cables to run from the top screen to the android unit. I ran them along the DS of the other AV units in the gap between their backets and the console, and used some corrugated tubing on the sharp edges of the bracket so the wires were safe. Plug the centre console and lower screen in temporarily and turn the car to ACC, the AV should fire up as normal. Hold the back button for 3 sec and Android should appear on the top screen. You need to set the input to Aux for audio (more on that later). I put the unit under the AC duct in the centre console, with the wifi antenna on top of the AC duct near the shifter, the bluetooth antenna on the AC duct under the centre console The GPS unit on top of the DS to AC duct; they all seem to work OK there are are out of the way. Neat cable routing is a pain. For the drive recorder I mounted it near the rear view mirror and run the cable in the headlining, across the a pillar and then down the inside of the a pillar seal to the DS lower dash. From there it goes across and to one USB input for the unit. The second USB input is attached to the ECUtec OBD dongle and the 3rd goes to the USB bulkhead connected I added in the centre console. This is how the centre console looks "tidied" up Note I didn't install the provided speaker, didn't use the 2.5mm IPod in line or the piggyback loom for the Ipod or change any DIP switches; they seem to only be required if you need to use the Ipod input rather than the AUX input. That's it, install done, I'll follow up with a separate post on how the unit works, but in summary it retains all factory functions and inputs (so I still use my phone to the car for calls), reverse still works like factory etc.
×
×
  • Create New...