Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey guys,

If you had 5g's to spend with this base:

RB20DET

Stock motor

HKS SSQ BOV

Coilovers

FMIC

What parts would you buy / how would you modify this car with the available funds.

Really just looking for direction, I know I could spend alot more than this but this is all im really willing to.

Not looking for any particular power figures, just a bit more poke and for it to still be reliable at the same time.

Thanks :)

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/222941-what-would-you-do/
Share on other sites

Sorry forgot to mention I also have full 3" zorst & rims.

So far it seems the 25 is the way to go. Any one have approximate costs for an engine and install? The gear box is on the way out how much extra do you think it would be if i got a 25 box as well?

Keep Checking the trader section for a motor and box they come up cheap from time to time and theres an R33 Power FC for 1k forsale in there right now.

im gonna throw up another option for you here,

HKS GTRS turbo Kit, GTR injectors, Z32 AFM, Re-Map the ECU and get a decent clutch, Thats If you dont want the hassle of swaping motors out etc,

If it were me, Id do the RB25+Box+PFC swap then do the above later on when some funds return.

If you dont have long term big plans for the car then i say do not do the RB25 conversion. Getting the car registered with an RB25 can be problematic.

I doubt a person who has done a 5K RB25 conversion would end up with any more performance then a modded RB20. Grab a 2530Kai, an ecu or a tune and your 220rwkws RB20 will be mega reliable, registerable, wont pop gearboxes and you will have change from the 5k to spend on subtle tweaks like perhaps a diff, some nicer suspension parts or better rubber. All round far better solution.

I cant believe people are suggesting a 5k RB25 conversion to someone who just wants to play around a little, by his words "I know I could spend alot more than this but this is all im really willing to." Unless he has the tools and know how the conversion wil cost more then 5k:( Would be nice and punchy on the street though,

Fark, talking RB25 conversion is like resorting to the use of a shotgun to get a 6yr old to brush their teeth :cheers:

I fail to see the relevance of trying to do a 25 for 5k... Its so gonna cost more than that and its gonna end up at a stockish level. Keep the 20, and work that fer sure! You'll end up with more power and money left to beef up your suspension so you can actually enjoy the power! Get an exhaust cam gear to bring the power band down a bit.

HKS2530

GTR injectors

REMAP + tune

Fuel pump

Turbotech bleed valve

All the above shouldn't cost you any more than $2,500 + labor if you can't do it yourself

That should see you 220rwkw as Roy said, plenty of reliability and fun street power

Spend the rest on a good suspension setup, diff as well as after-market clutch if you don't have one already and you will have plenty of fun with it

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Did you panel beat the dents or have you tried to repair this only using filler?  Is your sanding block soft/flexible and is following the shape of the panel rather then just knocking down the high points? 
    • I haven't knocked them down yet. I think I made the repair more complex than it should have been. I had rock chips combined with waviness and dents and I tackled it all in one because it was near each other and just end up wasting a bunch of bog lol. I'll knock down those areas and see how I go. And yep what you are saying at the end is correct. I think I might be sanding the top of a steep hill then my sanding block falls into the dent and gets rid of the guidecoat if that makes sense. Though shouldnt unless I'm covering too big of an area with not a long enough block. I'll try something new and provide some updates. Getting there though! Thanks as always.  
    • Yeah makes sense, hard to comment on your situation without seeing what your doing. I was talking generally before, I would not be looking to randomly create low spots with a hammer to then have to fill them.  It's hard without seeing what your doing, it sounds like you are using the guide coat to identify low spots, as you're saying the panel is still wavy. I don't see how you're not ending up with patches of guide coat remaining in a wavy panel? Once the high spots are knocked down to the correct level, surely to have a wavy panel you need low spots. And those low spots would have guide coat still in them?
    • So I'll put filler past the repair area a bit to make sure I don't miss anything. Then I'll block it until it's almost level, put the guidecoat, then keep blocking until it's gone. Then it's still wavy.  In regards to hitting the panel, I saw this video might give more context - Skip to 0:47 he knocks it down. But yeah I'm sanding until the guidecoat is gone then checking because otherwise my filler is still well above the bodyline. Unless what you're saying is I should put guidecoat around it early, surrounding the filler then stip once it's gone?
    • I refreshed the OEM injectors with the kit and connected it up. It now ideals okay even with the IACV removed. Driving still has the same cutoff issue like the 550cc injectors so the issue is somewhere else. I bought FPG's Fuel Pump Hanger. I will be installing it next, but it is not as straightforward as I thought it was with my limited wiring knowledge and no instruction on the specific model I purchased (FPG-089). I also got the incorrect billet clamp as I could not find info on the OEM sizing.
×
×
  • Create New...