Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

  • 2 weeks later...

Fired it up this morning.

(typical crap sound quality due to engine noise)

It's all untuned and just running on the start-up mode, hence the big lumpy idle. It wont take throttle yet, but at least it runs under it's own steam.

What ID are the toyota throttles?

42mm.

The tune on Thursday will just be a temporary measure, so that I am able to run the car at a test day on Monday to find all the problems before going to the final tune and dialing up the cams fully. Just want to be able to turn the wheels again, been a long couple of months.

I have to ask, with your choice of ECU, does the Link do a lookup comparison between MAP and TPS?

With ITB, you'll find that at different throttle positions, you get the same pressure behind the throttle body (Headed for the motor) but, you're actually getting different air, especially since you get a lot of air turbulence.

This is where you'll LOSE out on your throttle response, and get a drop in power, if it's not able to be tuned properly.

The Adaptronic which was mentioned earlier, does exactly this. The GTR doesn't have to worry about anything of the likes until you go MAP sensor on it. And then it sees the exact same issue.

Also to the person saying the Adaptronic runs unreliable drivers... I'd like to ask, SINCE WHEN?

Just a quick update. No pic's/vid's at the mo, haven't got time.

The car is up and running. Has much more torque, good throttle responce and sounds awsome!

Ran the car at two gravel hillclimbs on the weekend and found the extra torque very usable off the turns.

My mate is currently making some longer trumpets based off the info from the dyno run. This will mean we can dial in a wider power band from the cams and complete the tune. In the meantime I'm jut getting on with racing the thing again.

  • 1 month later...

I've done a few events with the ITB setup now and I have been very impressed with the results.

The car pulls much stronger in the mid-range, which is where I need it and it still rev's out easily to 8k. The throttle responce mid corner is instant and I am able to use more control when I'm looking for grip and there are no flatspots anywhere in the rev range from 3500rpm on.

The video below is of a steep hill we ran up a couple of weeks back. Compared to last year, I found it far more driveable and easier to keep momentium.

http://nz.youtube.com/watch?v=pjSTmw_WWqs

Still more tuning to be done, so hopefully with a few adjustments I'll have a wider powerband to play with.

picture001smlzy8.jpg

Edited by screamin'
  • 3 weeks later...

What power did it end up making and what torque?

Do you have a dyno graph?

Sounds really nice, good to see people doing something out of the mainstream and the engine bay looks really neat.

Don't have figures for the torques or ponies, wasn't too fussed about that and at the end of the day numbers don't mean much on gravel.

It has great midrange torque for a 2ltr and this makes the car far more drivable and controlable through the corners, when compared to the same events last year.

Why would itb's be illegal, unless you guys have some emission controls or something over there, which means in that case my SS is illegal too.

After the first event the engine bay is now really dusty, so it didn't look that good for long!

  • 4 months later...

Been running it for a while now. Car is going real good, had a couple of 1st in class (1600-2000cc) and a 1st two wheel drive on one hill climb. Good to be beating the Escorts and Tereno's.

Got a couple of short vid's of last weekends rallysprint. Day started off at -5°C and didn't get much warmer!

Some photo's. Check out the frozen road!

http://www.colourandlight.co.nz/galleries/...ne09/index.html

  • 2 months later...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Hi...so a "development" here aswell The swap is "done" and car went "test drive" BUT it seems the clutch(maybe gearbox?) is a little bit sad? I bought this clutch kit https://justjap.com/products/xtreme-heavy-duty-organic-clutch-flywheel-kit-nissan-skyline-r31-r32-r33-push-type "Problem" is that the first gear is hard to put into and it seems that the clutch is not disengaged. It was not the problem with the old clutch...(or like sometime the first gear would not get as easy specialy when the fluid was cold) So? Can it be like...bad "install" or is the clutch wrong ((it should not have been) i done research to get the right one) Or is this "normal" with new clutch and needs to be break in? 
    • @Duncan I can try  and thanks i did not thought about VIN and part numbers for 33/34. @GTSBoy yeah it looks like iam gonna do that  
    • Forgot to include this but this is the mid section of my steering rack that looks like it has a thread/can be turned with that notch mentioned in the post:
    • Hey everyone, Wanted to pick some brains about this issue I'm having with rebuilding my 33 rack (PN is 49001-19U05). All of the tutorials/videos I've seen online are either R34 or S Chassis racks which seem to be pretty straightforward to disassemble but this process doesnt carry over to my rack. Few of the key differences that I've noted The pinion shaft on the other racks bolt on with 3 torx bolts: Whereas my rack bolts on with 2 allen head bolts: These changes are pretty inconsequential but the main difference is how you pull the actual rack out of the housing. The other skyline/s chassis racks can be taken out by tapping the rack out of the body with a socket and it just slides right out. I'm unable to do that with my rack because there's a hard stop at the end that doesn't let the seal/shaft be tapped out. Can also see a difference in the other end of the rack where mine has a notch that looks like you're able to use a big wrench to unthread 2 halves of the rack whereas the other racks are just kinda set in with a punch. My rack: Other racks: TLDR; Wanted to know if anyone has rebuilt this specific model of steering rack for the R33 and if there were any steps to getting it done easier or if I should just give this to a professional to get done. Sorry if this post is a bit messy, first one I've done.
    • I would just put EBC back on the "I would not use their stuff" pile and move on.
×
×
  • Create New...