Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey guys, just a quick question about where can i purchase race fuel or fuel with a high octane rating? how much is it per litre or per drum/barrel etc?

the reason i ask is that i hardly ever drive my r34 GTR and would prefer to run nothing but race fuel so i can run a more aggressive tune safely without any detonation.

thanks in advance

-Johnny

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/223728-race-fuel/
Share on other sites

you'll be looking at about $10 a litre for race fuel if you buy retail.

be careful when using avgas, as its leaded (from memory...) and will destroy your cat. this applies to heaps of race fuels aswell. also you technically need a pilots licence to buy avgas, i think a cams licence may be good too, cant remember now

as for mixing avgas, i've heard of people doing it, cant see any issue with it, but there may be, maybe someone else on here can confirm?

Edited by VB-
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/223728-race-fuel/#findComment-3942092
Share on other sites

you'll be looking at about $10 a litre for race fuel if you buy retail.

be careful when using avgas, as its leaded (from memory...) and will destroy your cat. this applies to heaps of race fuels aswell. also you technically need a pilots licence to buy avgas, i think a cams licence may be good too, cant remember now

as for mixing avgas, i've heard of people doing it, cant see any issue with it, but there may be, maybe someone else on here can confirm?

i thought u could get unleaded avgas these days but u have to order it from overseas

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/223728-race-fuel/#findComment-3942263
Share on other sites

VPW in Thomastown stock Sunoco and other fuels.

Martini/Elf and a few others can also be had from their respective stockist here in Vic...

Its a waste of money, 20litres was over $120 retail a drum last i purchased and this was 3 years ago (Sunoco)

You'll never be able to utilise such an aggressive tune on the street, plus fuels like Sunoco are illegal to use on the street as they contain lead (from memory). With Shell 100 these days you can run a pretty damn decent tune as it is

Avgas is a bad choice

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/223728-race-fuel/#findComment-3944138
Share on other sites

i have always wondered about mixing avgas with premium unleaded to up the octane, anyone tryed it?

Yeah I used to do that about 15-20yrs back I was running a bb charger, I'd put about .5 of a litre per half tank...very nice.

It was readily available back then and cheap, but as stated in posts above it wouldn't be recomended for an unleaded car.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/223728-race-fuel/#findComment-3944153
Share on other sites

jeeeesus i had no idea it was that expensive! i think ill stick with shell v-power 98 or the ethanol 100 stuff.

my main concern is that with the amount of driving i do, the tankof fuel i have now in the car is over 2weeks old and im not sure of the petrols 'shelf life'

i mean any organic carbon based fuel will break down over time and effect the octane rating which may lead to detonation etc.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/223728-race-fuel/#findComment-3944648
Share on other sites

jeeeesus i had no idea it was that expensive! i think ill stick with shell v-power 98 or the ethanol 100 stuff.

my main concern is that with the amount of driving i do, the tankof fuel i have now in the car is over 2weeks old and im not sure of the petrols 'shelf life'

i mean any organic carbon based fuel will break down over time and effect the octane rating which may lead to detonation etc.

couple of weeks ago i bought a 60ltr drum of Sunoco...$600...thats $10 a litre...OUCH!!

its just attracted another 'carbon tax' due to it being leaded fuel.

Try mixing your own tolulene blend...it works well

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/223728-race-fuel/#findComment-3944687
Share on other sites

Johnny, the way I see it is, When your car came to AUS it would have been tuned for 98 RON.

So you putting in Race fuel and Shell Optimax 100 RON is just a waste of time and money IMO.

Use 98 RON and put some injector cleaner every 6 months / once a year and your car should be fine.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/223728-race-fuel/#findComment-3946071
Share on other sites

jeeeesus i had no idea it was that expensive! i think ill stick with shell v-power 98 or the ethanol 100 stuff.

my main concern is that with the amount of driving i do, the tankof fuel i have now in the car is over 2weeks old and im not sure of the petrols 'shelf life'

i mean any organic carbon based fuel will break down over time and effect the octane rating which may lead to detonation etc.

you can buy a 'fuel conditioner' adative thing that you add to ur tank of fuel to prolong shelf life

i use something like that in the lawnmower jerrycan :lol: but it works well, cause if fuel is not used in 2 weeks it starts to go 'off'

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/223728-race-fuel/#findComment-3946738
Share on other sites

jeeeesus i had no idea it was that expensive! i think ill stick with shell v-power 98 or the ethanol 100 stuff.

my main concern is that with the amount of driving i do, the tankof fuel i have now in the car is over 2weeks old and im not sure of the petrols 'shelf life'

i mean any organic carbon based fuel will break down over time and effect the octane rating which may lead to detonation etc.

2 weeks shelf life for fuel... Are you serious...?

Race fuel isnt going to have any more of a shelf life, if thats what you were thinking.

How long from the production plant, to servo, to tank do you think it takes?

Its more than 1 day? :happy:

You could get away with months before it goes off.

Forget crazy ideas of race fuel on the street and stick to your local bowser.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/223728-race-fuel/#findComment-3946764
Share on other sites

okay i meant 2 months, not 2 weeks

from what i understand if its sitting stagnant like in a fuel tank or jerry can fuel can go 'off' quicker

if its sloshing around it oxygenates and stays fresher longer...

but anway - i would just stick to ur normal 98 or 100 and fill it up as needed

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/223728-race-fuel/#findComment-3946839
Share on other sites

i see, im glad to see shelf life is better than what i expected so i guess im being paranoid about the whole 2-4week thing lolz.

i will stick to 98oct but unfortunately my car wasnt tuned for 98, it actually has one of those impul remap ecu's which is tuned for japanese fuel. Im getting a power fc tune asap but am struggling to choose a workshop :-(

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/223728-race-fuel/#findComment-3947358
Share on other sites

i see, im glad to see shelf life is better than what i expected so i guess im being paranoid about the whole 2-4week thing lolz.

i will stick to 98oct but unfortunately my car wasnt tuned for 98, it actually has one of those impul remap ecu's which is tuned for japanese fuel. Im getting a power fc tune asap but am struggling to choose a workshop :-(

Ah ok well then that explains it.

You tried the usual, Race Pace, RE Customs?

I take my car to Le Mans Automotive and Shane is great at what he does.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/223728-race-fuel/#findComment-3948029
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Even more fun, leave all the ADAS stuff plugged in, but in different locations, hopefully avoid any codes!   And honestly, all these new cars with their weird electronics. Pull all the electronics out Duncan, and just shove an aftermarket ECU and if needed a trans controller in, along with a PDM. Make it run basic but race car styled!
    • To follow up a question from earlier too since I had the front bar off again (fking!) This is what is between the bumper and the drivers side wheel And this is the navigator side, only one thing but its a biggy! So basically....no putting coolers in the wheel arches without a lot of moving other stuff. Assuming I move to properly race prepping this car I'll take that job on and see how the computers respond to removing a whole bunch of ADAS modules
    • So I prepped the car for another track day on Wednesday (will be interesting to see coolant temps post flushing out and the larger reservoir, with a forecast of 3-14 being 20o cooler than last time I took it out). Couple of things to mention; since I am just driving the car and not taking a support vehicle, I took the rear seats out and just loaded the back up Team Trackday style. Look at all that space! To cover off removing the rear seat....it is weird (note the hybrid is probably different because it wouldn't have folding rear seats) Basically, you remove the lower seat base, very similar to a r series but it is a clip that pulls forward to release the base rather than it being bolted down. Easy Then, you need to remove the side section of the rear seat on each side. There is a 14mm head nut at the bottom of the side piece, the it slides upwards off a hook at the top to release; you also need to unhook the seatbelt from the loop at the top. Then the centre piece is weird. You need to release/fold the seats forward with the tab in the boot on each side From there, there are 2,x12mm headed bolts holding the rear of each seat to the folding bracket, under the trim between the rear seat and the boot (4x christmas tree clips there, they suck). The seat is out but you can see where the bolts attach to the bracket
    • As discussed in the previous post, the bushes in the 110 needed replacing. I took this opportunity to replace the castor bushes, the front lower control arm, lower the car and get the alignment dialled in with new tyres. I took it down to Alignment Motorsports on the GC to get this work done and also get more out of the Shockworks as I felt like I wasn't getting the full use out of them.  To cut a very long story short, it ended up being the case the passenger side castor arm wouldn't accept the brand new bush as the sleeve had worn badly enough to the point you could push the new bush in by hand and completely through. Trying a pair of TRD bushes didn't fix the issue either (I had originally gone with Hardrace bushes). We needed to urgently source another castor arm, and thankfully this was sourced and the guys at the shop worked on my car until 7pm on a Saturday to get everything done. The car rides a lot nicer now with the suspension dialled in properly. Lowered the car a little as well to suit the lower profile front tyres, and just bring the car down generally. Eternally thankful for the guys down at the shop to get the car sorted, we both pulled big favours from our contacts to get it done on the Saturday.  Also plugged in the new Stedi foglights into the S15, and even from a quick test in the garage I'm keen to see how they look out on the road. I had some concerns about the length of the LED body and whether it'd fit in the foglight housing but it's fine.  I've got a small window coming up next month where I'll likely get a little paint work done on the 110 to remove the rear wing, add a boot wing and roof wing, get the side skirt fixed up and colour match the little panel on the tail lights so that I can install some badges that I've kept in storage. I'm also tempted to put in a new pair of headlights on the 110.  Until then, here's some more pictures from Easter this year. 
    • I would put a fuel pressure gauge between the filter and the fuel rail, see if it's maintaining good fuel pressure at idle going up to the point when it stalls. Do you see any strange behavior in commanded fuel leading up to the point when it stalls? You might have to start going through the service manual and doing a long list of sensor tests if it's not the fuel system for whatever reason.
×
×
  • Create New...