Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi guys,

I get a loud crunch for about 1-2 sec everytime i start the engine and also loud tapping sound (sounds like pistons) when i first start my car in the cold morning. Now if i was to warm the car up, take it for a drive then turn the engine off to start it back up again to look for the sound, the sounds gone away due to it being warmed up. Hence, why is the reason i can't take it to any mechanic to show the issue. :domokun:

Ive only noticed this loud crunch for 1-2 on cold start after ive changed my oil to 'Elf Synthetic Oil 10W50'. This is pretty much all the relevant information i can provide from my knowledge, and also that the sound is coming from under the hood on the passengers side, kinda sounds like its coming from the head area on the passengers side where the turbo is and all.

Could it be that im using a real thick oil, hence is why its making weird noises on cold start till its warmed up?

Note: The crunch sound is only for about 1-2 sec on cold start and not constant whilst idling in cold or driving.

Much appreciated for any helpful response.

Edited by R33Turbo
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/223890-loud-crunch-on-cold-start/
Share on other sites

need a better decription of a "crunch" dude...

example

is it similar to some one standing on a aluminium coke can or like some one scrunching up a chippie packet,or someone crunching first gear??????? could be the starter motor drive not retracting quickly enough on start up cause the lithium grease on the shaft is cold and thick?? who knows.

Edited by nizmonut

actually it could more sound like short 'gear crunches' as well.

Basically, if the sound dies down after warm-up, it wouldn't be engine head related or anything severe right? So it wouldn't do any harm driving it around?

Edited by R33Turbo

i think you will find the rattle and the crunch will dissapear if you have rices for breakfast instead of cornflakes, a snap crackle n pop from the exhaust is usually a good sign of a nice flowing exhaust, however in this case drop the gluten from the crankcase and run some thinner oil as obviously what is in there isnt protecting the mechanically moving bits on startup.

yeah well im running 25w50 mobil 1 in my gtr and starts on the first cylinder to reach TDC, no knocks rattles, purrs beautifuly so yeah i guess so.

and dont be fooled by the advertising of "synthetic" a federal court ruling allowed the oil companys to label highly refined mineral oil as synthetic.... so you dont always get what you pay for. make sure its says 100% fully synthetic as apposed to

just synthetic

Edited by nizmonut
its not your starter motor sticking? is there actually a sound that continues on while the car is warming up?

Nope, as i mentioned above the the 'crunch' sound which sounds like 'gear crunch' is only to be heard for 1-2 sec after engine start then goes away. However, if i turn the engine back off and on to hear the sound again, it will still be there (when the car has not yet warmed up properly). If its been warmed up properly, you would not hear the sound regardless of how many times you turn the engine on and off repetitively, hence is why i cannot show the mechanic as i got to drive there with my car.

yeh id take a wild guess at starter motor also...

you could always leave the car with ur mechanic over night?? drop it off real late and get there early in the morn to watch them start it, so u know they aint taking it for a thrash...?

hence is why i cannot show the mechanic as i got to drive there with my car.
Leave the car overnight with the mechanic. That's the only way you will demo it to him.

nizmonut, you really using 25W50 oil? 25 is waaayyy too heavy, and 50 ain't much better.

PS - how about just having ONE thread on the problem.

Leave the car overnight with the mechanic. That's the only way you will demo it to him.

nizmonut, you really using 25W50 oil? 25 is waaayyy too heavy, and 50 ain't much better.

PS - how about just having ONE thread on the problem.

Im planning on doing that if i have time for it, however can't do it at the moment. Does that mean 10W50 is real heavy compared to average oils as well?

what do you mean by turn my a/c off? like disconnect the whole thing? cuz my a/c will obviously be off when im starting the engine in the 'cold morning'.
If you had your A/C on when you last turned off the engine, it will still be on when you go to re-start. Make sure you turn it off before actually cranking the engine.

10 is a bit heavy for starting (which is the only time it's important), but not too bad. Nissan's spec is 7.5W30 - you'd probably be slightly better using a 5W40.

oh alright, thanks for ur help there blind_elk... so ppl are suggesting it could be the 'start motor' dying out, maybe it could be... then again it could be cuz my oil is to thick for the weather these days if thats wat ur saying blind_elk...

i think i'd try thinner oil to see if it goes away....

If it was the 'starter motor', where is it? how much to repair or replace?

Edited by R33Turbo
If you had your A/C on when you last turned off the engine, it will still be on when you go to re-start. Make sure you turn it off before actually cranking the engine.

10 is a bit heavy for starting (which is the only time it's important), but not too bad. Nissan's spec is 7.5W30 - you'd probably be slightly better using a 5W40.

isnt nissans spec 7.5W40? maybe im wrong :)

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Yeah, that's fine**. But the numbers you came up with are just wrong. Try it for yourself. Put in any voltage from the possible range and see what result you get. You get nonsense. ** When I say "fine", I mean, it's still shit. The very simple linear formula (slope & intercept) is shit for a sensor with a non-linear response. This is the curve, from your data above. Look at the CURVE! It's only really linear between about 30 and 90 °C. And if you used only that range to define a curve, it would be great. But you would go more and more wrong as you went to higher temps. And that is why the slope & intercept found when you use 50 and 150 as the end points is so bad halfway between those points. The real curve is a long way below the linear curve which just zips straight between the end points, like this one. You could probably use the same slope and a lower intercept, to move that straight line down, and spread the error out. But you would 5-10°C off in a lot of places. You'd need to say what temperature range you really wanted to be most right - say, 100 to 130, and plop the line closest to teh real curve in that region, which would make it quite wrong down at the lower temperatures. Let me just say that HPTuners are not being realistic in only allowing for a simple linear curve. 
    • I feel I should re-iterate. The above picture is the only option available in the software and the blurb from HP Tuners I quoted earlier is the only way to add data to it and that's the description they offer as to how to figure it out. The only fields available is the blank box after (Input/ ) and the box right before = Output. Those are the only numbers that can be entered.
    • No, your formula is arse backwards. Mine is totally different to yours, and is the one I said was bang on at 50 and 150. I'll put your data into Excel (actually it already is, chart it and fit a linear fit to it, aiming to make it evenly wrong across the whole span. But not now. Other things to do first.
    • God damnit. The only option I actually have in the software is the one that is screenshotted. I am glad that I at least got it right... for those two points. Would it actually change anything if I chose/used 80C and 120C as the two points instead? My brain wants to imagine the formula put into HPtuners would be the same equation, otherwise none of this makes sense to me, unless: 1) The formula you put into VCM Scanner/HPTuners is always linear 2) The two points/input pairs are only arbitrary to choose (as the documentation implies) IF the actual scaling of the sensor is linear. then 3) If the scaling is not linear, the two points you choose matter a great deal, because the formula will draw a line between those two points only.
    • Nah, that is hella wrong. If I do a simple linear between 150°C (0.407v) and 50°C (2.98v) I get the formula Temperature = -38.8651*voltage + 165.8181 It is perfectly correct at 50 and 150, but it is as much as 20° out in the region of 110°C, because the actual data is significantly non-linear there. It is no more than 4° out down at the lowest temperatures, but is is seriously shit almost everywhere. I cannot believe that the instruction is to do a 2 point linear fit. I would say the method I used previously would have to be better.
×
×
  • Create New...