Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi Guys,

I'm looking into organising a group buy for Muteki wheel/lug nuts.

I'm trying to get prices but it's proving difficult without given the stockists any kind of quantities.

Pics are below

If interested can you please let me know which type - Standard, Semi Extended, Extended and what colour? They have a slimmer diammeter than standard nuts so you no longer have to scrape the crap out your wheel getting them out. Also all nuts are a "lock" nut so to speak, as each will require the key that comes with them to remove them and out them on.

At this stage I want to see what interest we get in the next couple of weeks, and if there is enough to get a good price I'll run the group buy from around 01/07 to 20/07.

To make it worth while we would need around 25-30 orders.

I'm still trying to get a price indication and would post it up as soon as i get one, but indications are that they would be around the $60-$70 mark, with the semi and extended being slightly more expensive, and the Neo Chrome slightly more again.

Cheers

Bobby

Standard - Both closed and open ended

Black

post-194-1213744922_thumb.jpg post-194-1213744939_thumb.jpg

Blue

post-194-1213744953_thumb.jpg post-194-1213744963_thumb.jpg

Red

post-194-1213744972_thumb.jpg post-194-1213744979_thumb.jpg

Chrome

post-194-1213744997_thumb.jpg post-194-1213745006_thumb.jpg

Silver

post-194-1213745018_thumb.jpg post-194-1213745025_thumb.jpg

Semi Extended Black, Chrome, Neo Chrome

post-194-1213745036_thumb.jpg post-194-1213745048_thumb.jpg post-194-1213745066_thumb.jpg

Extended - Black, Titanium, Neo Chrome

post-194-1213745077_thumb.jpg post-194-1213745088_thumb.jpg post-194-1213745098_thumb.jpg

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/224426-eoi-group-buy-wheellug-nuts-muteki/
Share on other sites

what is the outer diameter?

Dimension measurements?

What shape is the Key?

What are they made of?

I'll update the first post as I get details, but can tell you

Made of Chrome Vanadium Steel - not alluminium.

From pics i have been given they seem narrower than the Rays which gives more clearance for putting on/taking them off.

how much thinner??

I need 17mm for my rims.... Be interested if they are indeed 17mm!!! 2 sets, one open one normal... both in black

Hey Anna,

I'm waiting on dimensions from the supplier, but I know in the US alot of people use them on all Japanese Wheels. Rays, Works, Nismo etc.

I'm very very interested ..

if u can give me the length of the standard one compare to extended, that would be good. also, can we get the blue ones in extended version? last, how heavy compare to alluminium ones? are they safe with the impact air tools?

Cheers

Ford

I'm very very interested ..

if u can give me the length of the standard one compare to extended, that would be good. also, can we get the blue ones in extended version? last, how heavy compare to alluminium ones? are they safe with the impact air tools?

Cheers

Ford

Not sure how heavy they are compared to alluminuim ones, but have been told the semi-extended lugs weigh 1.4oz each. I think a Rays one was aroun 0.8oz.

They told me I would get more info today so should hoepfully answer a few questions.

As for air tools, personally i wouldn't use them on any aftermarket wheel nuts. Rays nuts are $200 or so and an air tool would easily destroy them.

From what I've been told, you should always tighten wheel nuts by hand with a torque wrench, regardless of stock or aftermarket.

  • 2 weeks later...
WOuld be interested in black set if similar to above price

Appologies for the long delay all.

Have been advised that the standard Muteki nuts will be $55 delivered to me.

If you're in Sydney, happy to try and organise pick up, otherwise shipping will be at your expense.

Once i have some delivered I'll get shipping quotes to all captial cities, however I can't see them being too much.

The prices for the other styles should be available shortly.

Cheers

Bobby

Guest
This topic is now closed to further replies.


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • @Kapr Haha yeah thats the one. I missed that you had a built up engine, I wouldn't want to run it on there either then. It was good in my situation just to replace the original turbo on a stock engine. @MBS206Yep definitely not a replacement for anything name brand
    • You are selling this? I have never bought something from marketplace...i dont know if i trust that enough. And the price is little bit "too" good...
    • https://www.facebook.com/share/19kSVAc4tc/?mibextid=wwXIfr
    • It would be well worth deciding where you want to go and what you care about. Reliability of everything in a 34 drops MASSIVELY above the 300kw mark. Keeping everything going great at beyond that value will cost ten times the $. Clutches become shit, gearboxes (and engines/bottom ends) become consumable, traction becomes crap. The good news is looking legalish/actually being legal is slighly under the 300kw mark. I would make the assumption you want to ditch the stock plenum too and want to go a front facing unit of some description due to the cross flow. Do the bends on a return flow hurt? Not really. A couple of bends do make a difference but not nearly as much in a forced induction situation. Add 1psi of boost to overcome it. Nobody has ever gone and done a track session monitoring IAT then done a different session on a different intercooler and monitored IAT to see the difference here. All of the benefits here are likely in the "My engine is a forged consumable that I drive once a year because it needs a rebuild every year which takes 9 months of the year to complete" territory. It would be well worth deciding where you want to go and what you care about with this car.
    • By "reverse flow", do you mean "return flow"? Being the IC having a return pipe back behind the bumper reo, or similar? If so... I am currently making ~250 rwkW on a Neo at ~17-18 psi. With a return flow. There's nothing to indicate that it is costing me a lot of power at this level, and I would be surprised if I could not push it harder. True, I have not measured pressure drop across it or IAT changes, but the car does not seem upset about it in any way. I won't be bothering to look into it unless it starts giving trouble or doesn't respond to boost increases when I next put it on the dyno. FWIW, it was tuned with the boost controller off, so achieving ~15-16 psi on the wastegate spring alone, and it is noticeably quicker with the boost controller on and yielding a couple of extra pounds. Hence why I think it is doing OK. So, no, I would not arbitrarily say that return flows are restrictive. Yes, they are certainly restrictive if you're aiming for higher power levels. But I also think that the happy place for a street car is <300 rwkW anyway, so I'm not going to be aiming for power levels that would require me to change the inlet pipework. My car looks very stock, even though everything is different. The turbo and inlet pipes all look stock and run in the stock locations, The airbox looks stock (apart from the inlet being opened up). The turbo looks stock, because it's in the stock location, is the stock housings and can't really be seen anyway. It makes enough power to be good to drive, but won't raise eyebrows if I ever f**k up enough for the cops to lift the bonnet.
×
×
  • Create New...