Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

im lookin at a R32 with an RB26dett RWD not GTR would be interested (before i take the sale further) to know a rough idea how many k's GTR's or if possible RB26 skylines are getting at the moment

i've looked on few sites with various people some saying 250 some saying 450. pretty vague! :P

any ideas would be awes cheers ppl. :ninja:

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/224549-rb26-fuel-consumption/
Share on other sites

I drive mine daily, often with a heavy right foot, light mods + stock tune... I get 400km to a tank (65L) consistently.

There have been a number of threads on the issue all over the forum, so make sure you use the search button in future, OK?

Twincam RB30 in my 32 gtst, RB25 turbo, very rich tune, I get ~300km to a tank or closer to 400km if it's all highway driving. I think a GTR tank is about 10L bigger than a GTSt though...

I didn't buy a skyline to be economical.

If the price of fuel worries you then get a bunky for daily duties.

Usual stuff on depending on how heavy right foot is blah blah blah but general metro driving will net between 400 - 450km a fill and country trip will almost crack 500 (never been game to push it cause i dont want to have to push it if you get my drift). Rebuilt 26 with N1's, PFC Djetro, 700cc sard injectors etc.

I had to use the GTR for daily duties last year and racked up a few K's and it wasn't too much worse than the BA Falcon work vehicle i have now (although the ford gets more right foot)

In short they're not bad for what they were designed to be.

I can think of 3x 26'd rwd 32's off the top of my head...

[5KYLINE], masters' red beast and Flash89's car.

GTR consumption per TANK is a bit misleading as our tanks are a fair bit smaller..

I get about 14.5L/100km.

Edited by bubba

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Hi, SteveL Thank you very much for your reply, you seem to be the only person on the net who has come up with a definitive answer for which I am grateful. The "Leak" was more by way of wet bubbles when the pedal was depressed hard by a buddy while trying to gey a decent pedal when bleeding the system having fitted the rebuilt BM50 back in the car, which now makes perfect sense. A bit of a shame having just rebuilt my BM50, I did not touch the proportioning valve side of things, the BM50 was leaking from the primary piston seal and fluid was running down the the Brake booster hence the need to rebuild, I had never noticed any fluid leaking from that hole previously it only started when I refitted it to the car. The brake lines in the photo are "Kunifer" which is a Copper/Nickel alloy brake pipe, but are only the ones I use to bench bleed Master cylinders, they are perfectly legal to use on vehicles here in the UK, however the lines on the car are PVF coated steel. Thanks again for clearing this up for me, a purchase of a new BMC appears to be on the cards, I have been looking at various options in case my BM50 was not repairable and have looked at the HFM BM57 which I understand is manufactured in Australia.  
    • Well the install is officially done. Filled with fluid and bled it today, but didn't get a chance to take it on a test drive. I'll throw some final pics of the lines and whatnot but you can definitely install a DMAX rack in an R33 with pretty minor mods. I think the only other thing I had to do that isn't documented here is grind a bit of the larger banjo fitting to get it to clear since the banjos are grouped much tighter on the DMAX rack. Also the dust boots from a R33 do not fit either fyi, so if you end up doing this install for whatever reason you'll need to grab those too. One caveat with buying the S15 dust boots however is that the clamps are too small to fit on the R33 inner tie rod since they're much thicker so keep the old clamps around. The boots also twist a bit when adjusting toe but it's not a big deal. No issues or leaks so far, steering feels good and it looks like there's a bit more lock now than I had before. Getting an alignment on Saturday so I'll see how it feels then but seems like it'll be good to go       
    • I don't get in here much anymore but I can help you with this.   The hole is a vent (air relief) for the brake proportioning valve, which is built into the master cylinder.    The bad news is that if brake fluid is leaking from that hole then it's getting past the proportioning valve seals.   The really bad news is that no spare parts are available for the proportioning valve either from Nissan or after market.     It's a bit of a PITA getting the proportioning valve out of the master cylinder body anyway but, fortunately, leaks from that area are rare in my experience. BTW, if those are copper (as such) brake lines you should get rid of them.    Bundy (steel) tube is a far better choice (and legal  in Australia - if that's where you are).
×
×
  • Create New...